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[Bretto]

Righto guys here's my question.  I've talked to a mate (HD Mech) and he believes once the cases have been machined to 110 with o-ring you can not go bigger as barrels change to gaskets and the 110 once machined leaves a lip / edge  where the o-ring would have been, compared to machining out a 96 / 103. It's not the 1st time I've read or heard this but S&S now have a Stone Grey 110 to 124 kit listed?

I would prefer to put a kit in mine at this stage if possible. And try to keep the SE110 crank if it with standard up to a hot hi comp setup.

Not many guys with big cube s&s experience near me so looking for advise from you US builders to help me head in the right direction.

Trying to get the CVO Breakout into the low 11's or love a high 10 second pass. PB is 11.90 @ 110mph. Don't have mega bucks to throw at it so trying costs down where I can.

Cheers Brett


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[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

We've machined many 110" cases to the spigot clearence dimension for use with S&S cylinder kits.
No worries.
Scott

[Bretto]

Thanks Scott.

He has left the HD Dealer and is now has his own shop. Done plenty of 96 / 103 out to 107 / 113 kits but never 110 to 124 so we are doing some due diligence. He is going to talk to his S&S rep / importer next week. But though I would ask on here as well.

Cheers
Brett


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[prodrag1320]

stock cases to 124" are no prob,110" cases are no prob either

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

We've bored cases for other shops upon request, to accept 4.250" bore cylinders, but don't care for it.
Scott

[INDEPENDENT_1]

The crank being left stock and crank bearings being left stock would be my concern. The "don't build a house on a sandy foundation" thing... Especially if it's a B motor.

[FlaHeatWave]

If you don't do some crank work (S&S) you're pissing in the wind...

the 4.125 cylinders (117) might be a little more stable

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Much to the news of many, S&S offered a 116" at one time.
4 5/8" by 4" hole.
Those were available prior to the advent of Timken conversions, or S/E Leftys.
We built quite a few of those, and we are still in contact with several clients that have them.
No ill's or basically anything odd except poor r/tire life.
Not saying that twin tapered bearings, pressed on to the sprocket shaft are not needed.
They are very rugged set-ups and LOCK the wheels into the left side, but the extreme bad press the OE bearing recieved was caused by the cranks sissoring, and gyroing that bearing into a state of non-service, not the other way around.
Folks suspected the bearing going bad caused the wheels to go south........ because up to that point, no one had ever heard/suspected that an OEM HD crank would/could slip on the pin.
As history shows now, not true.

[laylonlor]

i'm gone take my  110  to a 124  in a few months,  is ss fly wheels wheels welded?  thanks 

[BigLew]

It doewnt really matter about the flywheels. If you don't fix the case so the bearing can be fixed you might as well run it without any oil. Because it will come apart. I have first hand experience. If you want it bigger there are some things that must be fixed.

BigLew

[laylonlor]

whats the best fly wheels for this build, is ss' welded

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

S&S wheels are not welded, nor do they recommend doing so to them.
The late S&S flywheels won't slip, and we use them here with great confidence.
Scott

[twinotter]

  S&S wheels are NOT welded and don't need to be!! That's the difference between a mfg (S&S) doing things the right way with the right materials and HD having everything sr..d up, from the getgo to ry to make bigger bonuses for the CEO.
I  totally agree with the statements about doing the Timken conversion too. Install an S&S crank, do the timkens. make sure you include torringtons in the cam side, compression releases or better yet, the new EZ Start cams.
For my $$, I'd just buy a S&S T124 crate motor and sell the pos HD supplies! My 124 is 7 yrs old, I run the hell out of it, it uses almost no oil, gives good mileage (except tires) and has cost me $212 for toal repairs to date. $12 for new O rings and $200 for a new electronic compression release. The new ez start cams eliminate that expense coming up.  fwiw twinotter

[laylonlor]

thanks , thats the info i needed , all other issues mentioned will be done in first class way!!!

[twinotter]

You will also need to upgrade the clutch to something much better, replace the tranny right plate with a Baker unit to prevent bearing/shaft walk. These are musts if you expect the powertrain to last with 124 power leading the way.
I use a Primo Rivera clutch with the gold spring, it has held my 126.5hp/134t for 7yrs now. You need strong hands to deal with the clutch pull at stops, or find neutral while rolling to a stop. Others have used various combos with variable rate weighted devices. I just learned to live with it!! Twinotter