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[Bludiver]

Here's a mystery. I have a 2009 FLHTCUSE4 110CI. V&H two into one, K&N stock breather element, the bike has been on a dyno and generates 101.3 HP & 119.76 ft. lbs. of torque. The problem is; When I run at highway speeds for any great lengths of time, my clutch fluid(500 deg. DOT5) starts to overheat and boil causing air bubbles to form at the slave cylinder thus giving me a clutch lever that I have to "pump up" to downshift. Once I stop, crack the bleeder loose to let a few tiny air bubbles out the clutch goes back to normal. Cruising around town and keeping the RPM's down I have no problems. I'm leaning towards the mapping being too rich at higher RPM's. Burning off excess fuel, overheating the pipes/transmission. I have changed the DOT 5 fluid several times and all fluids recently. Went with all Red Line this time. (great oils BTW) Still have heat issues at clutch and don't want to give up the hydraulic clutch for a cable. Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions. Great site BTW.

[Steve_G]

Your bike came stock with DOT4.  Why are you using DOT5?

[OBB]

I'm pretty sure I read that DOT 4 is what's required for the clutch. Can't remember where or why, maybe our Resident Grouch or someone with more than my limited knowledge can provide an answer as to why.

[Bludiver]

Checked my clutch fluid one day.... looked like mud. Flushed and changed to DOT 5. It is silicone based, higher temp rating, won't absorb water or eat the paint if you spill it.

[grc]

Check the routing of the actual hydraulic line to make sure it isn't too close to the pipes, and also check to make sure the pipes aren't too close to the trans side cover where the actuator (slave cylinder) resides.  Btw, if you don't have a catalytic converter in the pipes, and I'm pretty certain that aftermarket system does not, a rich mixture isn't going to make the pipes run hotter.

Why are you running DOT 5 fluid btw?  That stuff is a pure beotch to get all the air out of, versus the specified DOT 4.  Or are you talking about DOT 5.1, which isn't silicone based like DOT 5?

Jerry

[r0de_runr]

I do not think you can "switch" from 4 to 5 because they are not compatible.  No way to get all the old out.

You may need to replace all the parts.

[Bludiver]

Jerry
Thanks for the brake fluid pdf file. Line is routed in between engine and exhaust so I don't think that's an issue. No cat in the pipes. The exhaust placement has the bracket from V&H and it aligns the exhaust perfect. Thought about trying to modify placement with .375 or .250 spacers but it might cause exhaust leaks at heads... I have an SE tuner installed from HD...big mistake and not so adjustable on the settings. Unless I want to cough up big bucks for every adjustment.

[Bludiver]

Greg,
Dis-assembled entire system, super cleaned all components with alcohol then back filled at slave cylinder. I doubt if there is more than four or five molecules of DOT4 in there.

[Bludiver]

Also during deceleration the exhaust pops a lot... pushing me towards a fuel/tuning issue.

[HOGMIKE]

Just a couple of questions:
Did your clutch ever work properly?
When did you notice the problem? Was anything changed from when it WAS working properly??
A lot of times you can uninstall things to get back to where your bike ran fine, then you know what part of the sequence is giving you the problems.
JMHO
 

[Bludiver]

Hog Mike
Ah, good advice. Clutch always did fine. From the time I had it dyno'd (right after the V&H install)it has thrown a few curve balls at me. Had to replace the starter clutch due to horrible noises it would make when trying to start. ACR's are working though. It's was like the timing is too advanced to start easily.

[HOGMIKE]

Hog Mike
Ah, good advice. Clutch always did fine. From the time I had it dyno'd (right after the V&H install)it has thrown a few curve balls at me. Had to replace the starter clutch due to horrible noises it would make when trying to start. ACR's are working though. It's was like the timing is too advanced to start easily.

If I read this correctly, you problems started after the V&H install/dyno session?
I have seen in the past slipping clutch issues while dyno tuning......not saying this is YOUR problem, but, check all things from your latest upgrades.
I'm assuming stock clutch and compensator? Worn compensators will also affect starters, making terrible noises when worn, and/or tune timing adjustments not optimized on start up.
How many miles on the bike? Stock 110 motor?
Maybe have your tuner who did the dyno session adjust to your wishes.
 

[Bludiver]

Hogmike,
Bike has stock 110 motor. 14K miles. I think I'll take your advice and contact the HD shop that did the Dyno. Maybe re-mapping is in order. Thanks for everyone's input. Will keep everyone posted.