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[mrmagloo]

I should have taken pictures, but this was pretty straight-forward, but thought this might help the next guy.

During a long trip around the great lakes a month ago, out over the top of Lake Superior out in the middle of nowhere, and ~1,000+ miles from home, my cruise control started acting up. At first, it just was turning off for no apparent reason. The green indicator on the tach would turn red, and off she went. When I tried to re-engage, it would last a while but do it again.

Later, I'd be cruising along and it would suddenly start accellerating uncontrollably. When I either hit the Set- or use the brake, when I tried to engage again, I could never get the green light. I turned off the master switch for a while, then tried it again, and went through that whole cycle again. But finally nothing I did would work.

I stopped on the side of the road to check the fuse, etc., but nothing.

By the time I got to Thunderbay Harley, my right arm was pretty numb. They insisted it was the controller by the fuse box and wanted an arm and two legs for the swap. I figured for a couple hundred, I'd do it for my arms sake, but not going north of $700 to begin with.

So, I deal with the numb arm for the rest of the way back to Chicago, and started researching it a bit when I got back.  I found a post somewhere for getting the Cruise Dropout Codes and noticed I was getting a number of 121 which I found elsewhere meant Short in Wiring Between Set/Resume. Crap, I wasn't looking forward to ripping the bike apart to find a hidden short in a loom somewhere.

Feeling a little comfortable that it wasn't the main controller now, thank God, and knowing the drop out code was pointing to the Set/Resume malfunction, I gambled on getting a new switch.  Not a tough job at all, but you do have to make sure you cut the leads off right next to the old switch, and make sure the eventual lead lengths are pretty close, so you don't cause any pinches when putting it all back together.  I made sure it was soldered up very tightly and cleanly, not forgeting the shrink tube, and it was a pretty easy operation. The hardest part was getting the two lower switches to stay in place while getting the backet above to seat properly. After that, it was a breeze.

The good news is, that was the issue. Works perfectly now. So the moral of the story is, if you run into similar symptoms with erratic speeding up, and not engaging, etc, and you pull a 121 code, there is a good chance it's the switch.  $60 and an hours work later, and you're back on the road. Just glad I had more sense than to let that dealer rip it apart. I sense that would have been a very costly mistake!

Here's the proceedure I found somewhere (wish I could find it again so I could give proper credit):

______________________________

Here is how to pull the cruise control dropout codes and what they mean. They tell you why the cruise control disengaged. The module stores the last 8 dropout codes starting with the most recent dropout.

To invoke the readout:

Engine OFF, cruise switch OFF

Push cruise set/resume switch to SET and HOLD it there while switching to IGNITION (do NOT start engine)

RELEASE the set/resume switch and watch the cruise enabled lamp....it will flash out 3 digits encoded as a series of pulses in the following pattern >>> the first digit is string of 1/4 second flashes, then a one second pause; then the second digit is string of 1/4 second flashes, then a one second pause; then the third digit is string of 1/4 second flashes and it stops.....write down the number of flashes in each of the three segments and you will get a three digit code

if you want to verify the flashes you just saw, then push the switch to RESUME and it will repeat the three digit code that you just read.....

to get the next three digit code that is stored, push the switch to SET and three more digits will be pulsed out in the same format as above.....continue advancing the codes by toggling to the SET (or verify them using RESUME)

there are 8 codes stored and once the buffer is empty, the cruise engaged lamp stays on solid.........if you want to repeat all 8 again, then toggle the switch to SET

to exit the readout mode switch the ignition to OFF

You now have 8 three-digit codes written on your arm....their meaning is:

111 No Codes, memory clear
112 Throttle roll off
113 Cruise switch turned off
121 Short in Wiring Between Set/Resume
122 frt or rear brake applied
211 Coast interval longer than 6 seconds (S/C button)
212 speed dropped below 30 mph while s/c button held
213 speed below 26 mph or above 90 mph
221 speed drops more than 15 mph below speed set point
222 speed decrease exceeds 20 mph per second
223 vehicle speed sensor input
231 rpm exceeds 5000
232 tach signal lost
242 high rate of engine rpm change (e.g., hit ice or slipping tire)
341 low voltage
internal failure if code 311, 312, 313, 321, 323, 331, 332, 333, 342, 343, 351, 352, 353, 361, 362, 363, 371, 423, 432, 777






 

[Jswerve]

Thanks for sharing.

[Mano]

Thanks for sharing...somewhere I posted the same issues. I am on my 3rd switch now and broken wire in the harness. All done under warranty. I too know that numb feeling. Had to come home twice from long trips with no cruise control.