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[HDultraDad]

Last one.  This is after the pistons, cams and exhaust change. 

[Sarhan]

It seems that AFR needs some work

[HDultraDad]

It seems that AFR needs some work

AFR ?  Air Fuel Ratio?  What's up with it?

[Steve Cole]

I think what they are trying to point out is that the dyno chart you posted has a flat line @ 14:1 showing. If that is what your bike is running at under WOT conditions it's too Lean and will cause damage over time. There is no perfect number but typically you look for around 13:1.

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Hard to say,.. I was going to say it was two runs on one sheet and one had afr data the next did not and they removed one run. I have seen that leave a computer made afr line for what ever reason that is a radnom number and very flat like that...... but at the end of that run the afr moves a tad that will not happen with 02 off line. Hard to say,..ask the tuner ? maybe tuned with a probe and it slide out the pipe ?

[INDEPENDENT_1]

If you're happy with the way it runs, dont worry about numbers. They're are easily manipulated by many dyno manufacturers and in some cases used as a tool to sell parts instead of making what you have already run its best. Ive witnessed guys getting louder pipes, losing considerable power and thinking they are making more power and vice versa.

[Unbalanced]

Last one.  This is after the pistons, cams and exhaust change.

HDUltraDad,

Rather than guess it looks like they did this run with the sniffer in and its showing 14 to 1 can you confirm that is the case.   If it is you may want to bring it back to them and have them add some fuel to this as that is imo too lean for Wide Open Throttle.   You might see some gains from doing so as well. 

[DRAGO B W]

I think the numbers are in line.
This is one I tuned for a local dealer
wide open 13.1 afr
10.5.1 se pistons
259 SE cams
V&H duals
CFR mufflers
SE tuner
2013 CVO
As you can see the more fuel I gave it the numbers peak curves are better.

I think with yours having a better exhaust you would see some improvement on HP & TQ over what I tuned here.
Even a better cam would Like GMR 577 would help you even more.
Thanks FD

Last one.  This is after the pistons, cams and exhaust change.

[HDultraDad]

Thanks for all the great responses.  I will discuss these when I go back and believe me I HAVE to go back.  I am now getting a very rough surge and backfire when I roll on the through the throttle in 1st gear at a stop light.  As I am releasing the clutch throttling up in the friction zone, the engine sputters, then surges forward followed by a pretty loud backfire.  This is occurring at roughly 2000 RPMs from a dead stop.

Any ideas?  Should I be rolling the throttle more versus an easy takeoff?   

[HOGMIKE]

Thanks for all the great responses.  I will discuss these when I go back and believe me I HAVE to go back.  I am now getting a very rough surge and backfire when I roll on the through the throttle in 1st gear at a stop light.  As I am releasing the clutch throttling up in the friction zone, the engine sputters, then surges forward followed by a pretty loud backfire.  This is occurring at roughly 2000 RPMs from a dead stop.

Any ideas?  Should I be rolling the throttle more versus an easy takeoff?   

Is this something that just started? AFTER you did your mods? OR, did you have driveability issues BEFORE??
 

[Unbalanced]

Thanks for all the great responses.  I will discuss these when I go back and believe me I HAVE to go back.  I am now getting a very rough surge and backfire when I roll on the through the throttle in 1st gear at a stop light.  As I am releasing the clutch throttling up in the friction zone, the engine sputters, then surges forward followed by a pretty loud backfire.  This is occurring at roughly 2000 RPMs from a dead stop.

Any ideas?  Should I be rolling the throttle more versus an easy takeoff?   

My guess and its only that, is that you do not have enough fuel (lean) or a possible small intake leak making it to lean.    Check your plugs easy enough to do they should be a light tan color vs. black (wet, rich) or white (lean).    You may also find that it is only 1 cylinder doing it too.  (again a guess but look at the rear cylinder).   sorry you have to bring it back to them and yes the suggestion made to you to look at the GMR cam or the Kuryakyin 24d cam is a good suggestion especially in a heavier bike like you have.   By making the cam swap you shouldn't be giving up anything you have now and should gain in the lower / mid area which is what you need to get these bikes going due to size/weight. 

Hope your able to get it squared away.       

[HDultraDad]

Is this something that just started? AFTER you did your mods? OR, did you have driveability issues BEFORE??
 

Yes it started after the mods.  In fact, it started after the 1,000 mile break-in period.  The dealership told me to run it 500 miles conservatively (<3000 or so RPM's).  After that to run it like normal.  At 1000 miles they would do the 1,000 mile service on it like a new engine and dyno it to dial it in.  It was after the dialing in that it started.