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[Hydroman]

New to this board, first post, found a lot of good info here, thanks.

2012 CVO Ultra, 16,000 miles, connection rods sloppy, crank shot. Seems to be somewhat common from what i've learned reading here. Lifters look good, cams and bearings look good. Thinking after reading here I should replace lifters and cam bearings, use an aftermarket crank and take the cat converter out. (bike is completely stock now).

Without the cat in the head pipe can i get by with the stock mufflers or is it Fullsac baffle time? Then I suppose a different air filter/intake is needed. Then a SERT and dyne tune. It never ends.

I bought this thing new and left stock on purpose thinking I would have trouble free riding for a long time. Guess I was wrong yet again.

Anyway some advice would be appreciated as to how to proceed. I think I know but…..

[JKM]

Is this a warranty job?
Definitely need lifters and cam bearing. Might as well do a cam at the same time. New catless head pipe is a good idea as well as fulsac baffles. On tuner module, go with the dynotuner prefers.

If you're paying for this yourself, seriously consider and S&S 124". The cost difference may not be that much.

[FlaHeatWave]

New to this board, first post, found a lot of good info here, thanks.

2012 CVO Ultra, 16,000 miles, connection rods sloppy, crank shot. Seems to be somewhat common from what i've learned reading here. Lifters look good, cams and bearings look good. Thinking after reading here I should replace lifters and cam bearings, use an aftermarket crank and take the cat converter out. (bike is completely stock now).

Without the cat in the head pipe can i get by with the stock mufflers or is it Fullsac baffle time? Then I suppose a different air filter/intake is needed. Then a SERT and dyne tune. It never ends.

I bought this thing new and left stock on purpose thinking I would have trouble free riding for a long time. Guess I was wrong yet again.

Anyway some advice would be appreciated as to how to proceed. I think I know but…..

Welcome to the CVO Forum!

It was common for me on the '09 SERG (Front rod bearing going stiff, discovered during a teardown for Stage III at 9.5k)

Whether it's warranty or not, I'm a big fan of the S&S Crank and Premium Lifters. If you have ESP then go back with OE and milk the ESP or go S&S and cancel the ESP for a rebate.

Now is a good time to change cams if you want something else.(the 255s didn't suit my riding style at all, and there are bolt-in cams (non-emissions) out there that will run the engine better / cooler)   At least upgrade the inner cam bearings.

Get rid of the cat, the FullSac baffles are a cost effective alternative to buying mufflers and a lot of folks are very happy with them.

The Ventilator (with a K&N) doesn't seem to be much of a choke point on the 117...

I'm in a definite minority here as I think some of the simple Tuners/fuelers are fine up to a certain point (in the Build) vs a dyno tune...

 

[Para Bellum]

If this is a warranty/ESP repair, some dealers will let you pay the difference between stock parts and an upgraded one. So labor is covered and out of pocket cost is reasonable for a major improvement.

If not a covered repair, definitely need to upgrade from stock...don't want to rebuild again in another 16k miles.

[Hydroman]

Not a warranty job, warranty ran out in April and I didn't purchase the ESP. Thanks for all the advice.

[Para Bellum]

If Since you're paying for this yourself, seriously consider an S&S 124". The cost difference may not be that much.

Updated and agree.

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

S&S crank, bore the cases/Timken, S&S cylinder kit, use the CVO heads and cam/compression of choice for the intended riding, and naturally a good t/body.
Piece-o-cake.
Scott

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Do not over look a 113 build,.. your stock cylinders can be bored to 113.  Just another option,,... easier and less money than a 124 build.  A good running 113 will make 125-130 hp and tq 130-135.  A low compression S&S 124 engine just as a  example would make 125 and 135. Either way it is going to be an huge gain over stock 110. 

[Ridgerunr]

103's have the same crank assy and don't have a lot of failures. 120R's get the snot beat out of 'em and don't have a lot of crank failures. They like the 110 have had lifter failures, most 120R owners get a proper tune which reduce operating temps. 110 owners would be wise to do the same. Hydroman, did you have a engine builder inspect the crank assy? Is the assy out of the cases?

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

The peak numbers between a hot-rod 113" and a sleeping 124" can be close,(and not really that close) but it is like comparing apples to cucumbers...........
A 124", purpose-built for the intended application will piss-pound a 113", until it's tongue is hanging out.........
Scott

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

The peak numbers between a hot-rod 113" and a sleeping 124" can be close,(and not really that close) but it is like comparing apples to cucumbers...........
A 124", purpose-built for the intended application will piss-pound a 113", until it's tongue is hanging out.........
Scott

Well always nice to have a test cell in the shop. Soild data to back up why I feel a 113 is a nice option,.. so here is a 113 with a little 243 duration cam vs a 124 640 engine with a .030 HG  with a 66 mm t/b as you can see the 124 did make some great hp however the question is do you always ride up there. Yes you could hit the 640 for more compression and port the heads .

As for  playing with piss and a cucumber,..   what ever that means, I cannot offer any help there..     Sounds like a deliverance thing to me.. but hey I am not judging. 

Tuning EFI engines along with  building  dozens and dozens of 113 and 124 every year  I can show that data, Where do you really spend 80+ percent of your riding time. If you really need the power 4500+ RPM ?? IF so you still could swap for a larger cam in the 113 but then you are going to swap some low end for top end. No question the 124 has its place, but a nicely built 113 is no slouch that is a fact.


I have the same 124 with the same ex system as the 113 as well. The larger ex on the 124 boosted peak hp numbers but tq was not as fast coming in.. The overlays really put things into perspective.   I am happy to overlay other runs if anyone else has the actual run file. 

[Jswerve]

Fwiw 95% of the time I'm 2500-3500 rpm.

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Heard tell of a once famed and fabled 124" that went off at 160 hp with a .640 "stick".........with a tiny 1/3/4" headpipe?........ ........the rest of this comment was deleted as it was not suitable for adult viewing...........

[Ridgerunr]

I highly doubt the OP leaving his bike stock to begin with, is looking for 160 hp.

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

I doubt it as well, and the 124" that I was citing DID NOT produce 160 hp either....
Scott