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[Spider51]

Is anyone having issues with the hydraulic clutch not releasing when the motor is warmed up? My 13 Ultra releases at the very end of the clutch lever travel when the motor is hot. It get progressively worse as the the motor gets warmer. Makes it almost impossible to feather the clutch during the slow speed maneuvers.

[grc]

If you mean the clutch doesn't release until the lever is at or nearly at the grip, that's a good indication of air in the system.  I think the first thing to do would be to bleed the clutch.  If that doesn't solve the problem, then I'd measure the amount of travel of the release rod/plate at the clutch, to make sure the hydraulic system is providing the correct amount of travel.  Problems in either the master cylinder or the actuator reduce travel and keep the clutch from fully releasing until the lever is near the grip.  If the bike is still under warranty the dealer should take care of this for you.

Jerry

[Fired00d]

Hasn't it been mentioned before about the line to close to exhaust causing the fluid to heat up (boil) and creating this problem?

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

 

[Spider51]

I found another thread where this is talked about. The clutch releases at the very end of the release. I think the problem is the Syn 3. I'm gonna try heavier gear oil. And then a Scorpion clutch.

[grc]

I found another thread where this is talked about. The clutch releases at the very end of the release. I think the problem is the Syn 3. I'm gonna try heavier gear oil. And then a Scorpion clutch.

So if I understand correctly, what you're really saying is that as you let the clutch out, it doesn't engage until the lever is almost completely released.  And on the other side, I assume it releases almost immediately when you start to pull the clutch lever in.  I'm not sure how that could be caused by the SYN3 in the primary, but on the other hand it's a cheap and easy fix if it works.  Try the Formula + that Harley uses in the primary in the non-CVO bikes.  That is a real gear oil.

Make sure the clutch master cylinder is not overfilled.  The fluid level should be slightly below the full line.  If it's overfilled you can have a condition where the actuator (slave cylinder in the trans side cover) cannot return completely when you release the lever.  That will also cause the problem you described and it would get worse as the fluid gets hotter and expands.

Jerry

[Rkw]

14 Tourers issued another recall on 9/23/14 for clutch again; seal on the master cylinder.

[r0de_runr]

My 2012 was real grabby at first, I hated it.  Then I changed out the syn3 for regular HD Formula Plus in the primary, and the correct amount.  I also swapped out the syn 3 in the tranny for synthetic 75W140 gear lube.

After a couple more changes and 15000 miles, the clutch is purrrfect and linear, and the tranny stopped that damn neutral rattle when hot.

By all means, have the clutch fluid bled and replaced, but also switch to Formula Plus in the primary and you will at least have a chance at being happy, again, my opinion.

I don't believe in ATF, or synthetic motor oil in the primary, or motor oil in the tranny.  Now running 10W60 in the motor, and happy all around.