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[TXGator]

To her in today and the dealer bled the hydro clutch because it wasn't engaging until 3/4 release.  Very small friction zone.  Much better now as it starts to grab at right about 50%.  Just putting it out there because I was being told it couldn't be adjusted but the bleeding of the system after a few hundred miles sure did help.

take care...

[Fired00d]

Friction zone wasn't "technically" adjusted.... getting the air out the system has corrected a problem and now the clutch (friction zone) is where it should be. This (air in the system) has been a noted problem w/the hydraulic clutches and one of the first things mentioned when people start having issues with them. Sounds like you got a dealer (tech) that is on the ball and is aware of this issue and took care of you.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[TXGator]

You're right and that is exactly how the tech explained it to me.  I was probably just conveying it the best I could.  Either way you are definitely correct about the dealership taking care of me.  I see them each week at bike nite and they ask how everything is.  When I explained about the concern on the clutch they told me to get it in next day with no appointment.  They took it straight in and I was out in an hour or so.  They also updated the radio to the latest.

[donvito]

Hey all,
My first post here. I just read this thread and I am experiencing the same issue on my 12 RG. I have to ask this in addition to the friction zone adjustment, I also have this whining/whirring sound in the trans/primary area when I downshift into first just before coming to a stop. Has anyone had a similiar issue like this? I have never had a hyd clutch but it sure is a weird feeling coming from a cabled clutch.

[grc]

Hey all,
My first post here. I just read this thread and I am experiencing the same issue on my 12 RG. I have to ask this in addition to the friction zone adjustment, I also have this whining/whirring sound in the trans/primary area when I downshift into first just before coming to a stop. Has anyone had a similiar issue like this? I have never had a hyd clutch but it sure is a weird feeling coming from a cabled clutch.

That whine you hear coasting down in first gear isn't related to the clutch, it's the noise made by the straight cut gears that are used for 1st gear in the Cruise Drive trans.  Pretty much the same as what we all experienced with the old 5 speed trans btw. 

As noted by Fired00d, if your clutch has air in the hydraulic system, getting that air completely removed with a thorough bleeding will return the operation of the system to normal.  However, normal is all you will get, there is no free play adjustment to allow you to alter the point of engagement if that's what you want.

Jerry

[TXGator]

Just to update...  I have noticed that the friction zone is now back to being in the last inch to inch and a half of clutch travel.  I am going to mention it again at the 1000 mile check.

[Trapperdog]

Whenever I've had air in any of my hydraulic clutch systems, prior to bleating the clutch the engagement/diss engagement was closer to the grip, not further away.
Bleeding the system only brought the friction zone further out.

[grc]

Whenever I've had air in any of my hydraulic clutch systems, prior to bleating the clutch the engagement/diss engagement was closer to the grip, not further away.
Bleeding the system only brought the friction zone further out.

    That's the way it's always worked in the past, and I can't imagine the physics involved changing.  If the clutch engages too late (with the lever almost completely out), that sounds more like too much fluid in the master cylinder such that the actuator isn't allowed to fully retract, or perhaps a bad actuator or master cylinder. 

Jerry

[North Georgia Hawg]

Friction zone is a niggling issue with the hydro clutches because there is no provision for adjusting it like there is on cable clutches. I guess I have just gotten used to where it is on my bike.

Bear in mind that as the clutch plates wear, more fluid will be displaced into the master cylinder, and it will become more full.

As Jerry said, the master cylinder should not be overfilled. If the master cylinder gets too full, the clutch can start slipping because it can't fully engage because of all the fluid pressure in the system. This would normally only really be a problem if the MC was almost totally full with very little air at the top, and after the clutch plates have worn significantly... but it can happen.

Ken

[TXGator]

Got it... It is just a bit weird feeling when I am trying to use it to get through low speed turns.  I am always concerned that my fingers will slip since it is right at the edge of release any way.  I think I have gotten used to it but it is always in the back of my mind. 

[hogdooz]

It seems like there is a problem in the hydraulic clutch system, I had to have mine bled every 10-15k miles on my 2011 FLTRUSE. I hope my new 2015 FLTRUSE lasts better and longer than the other one.

[TXGator]

I have just gotten used to where mine engages...  It is the last inch or so before being completely released.

[danner55]

I had mine checked when it was new & I felt like you do about engaging so far out. It is the nature of the beast! It's not like an adjustable cable. You will get used to it. It just releases at a different point. I have changed out the fluid & it does help. I have pulled a trailer many miles & have no problem with the clutch slipping!

[brassspike]

Just changed and bled my clutch. It engaged right at the grip when I finished....and did not clunk. A few minutes later it engaged farther out and slammed into gear again. I did get a lot of bubbles (air) out when I first bled it.
SO, how do you bleed these? I bleed while pulling the leaver back, shut and released the lever. Should I have pulled all the way back and then opened the bleeder?
 

[North Georgia Hawg]

Book says to pump the lever three times, hold in, open the bleeder valve, shut the valve, and repeat the procedure three times. Be sure to keep the reservoir from getting toO low.

If you do this with the cover off, pump SLOWLY or you can easily squirt fluid out of the reservoir!

Best to have a helper do the squeezing or the opening/closing of the bleeder valve. Tough to do both by yourself.

Ken