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Author Topic: Tips for tie down  (Read 4134 times)

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factoryphil

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Tips for tie down
« on: September 13, 2004, 10:24:27 AM »

Taking a trip in a few weeks to the Carolinas and not sure of the proper tie down points on the SEEG. My buddy has a Roadking and he plans on using the handle bars as the tie down point for the front. I don't think I can use the bars as it would rub against the fairing. Any suggestions? Has
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WFP

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Re: Tips for tie down
« Reply #1 on: September 13, 2004, 10:46:19 AM »

I was able to tie down my seeg
« Last Edit: September 13, 2004, 10:46:58 AM by WFP »
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Re: Tips for tie down
« Reply #2 on: September 13, 2004, 12:28:01 PM »

To keep the bike tie downs from flexing when you hit dips or bumps, you might use a 2x4 crossways, under the frame.

Also, if you're using a pickup to haul, use a board to cover the tailgate.  Otherwise, you run the risk of denting or creasing the tailgate.
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Re: Tips for tie down
« Reply #3 on: September 13, 2004, 03:49:10 PM »

Quote
Taking a trip in a few weeks to the Carolinas and not sure of the proper tie down points on the SEEG. My buddy has a Roadking and he plans on using the handle bars as the tie down point for the front. I don't think I can use the bars as it would rub against the fairing. Any suggestions? Has


I can't believe that one of these guys has not had a "special thingy" fabricated for transporting a SEEG. I was thinking kind of along the lines of the way that a Mastercraft sits into it's trailer. Ooooops! I hope I have started something!
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MGB

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Re: Tips for tie down
« Reply #4 on: September 20, 2004, 11:44:37 PM »

factoryphil, I've trailored mine several times using the handlebars, the crashbars and the saddlebag supports. Also put a tie-down on the front axle to the front of the trailor shoe. Guess it depends on where your tie down points are on the trailor or truck bed whether or not the handlebars can be used a point, mine works fine without touching the fairing. I use a total of 7 tie downs on the bike when hauling it. Better safe than sorry (wife says I drive too fast too, but of course, I don't). I go up I-26 a lot with mine to Western NC area and I-26 is pretty rough along the Hendersonville area. A lot of uneven concrete used on the road, bounces a lot. Lots of good riding around Maggie and Waynesville areas even after the floods. Have a good trip.
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factoryphil

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Re: Tips for tie down
« Reply #5 on: September 21, 2004, 06:57:21 AM »

Thanks all for your replies. I'll probably try to use the handlebars as an anchor point if possible. Since I'm renting a covered trailer I don't have any idea of the anchor locations yet. Hope it has the adjustable rail system in the floor.

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the O`Fender

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Re: Tips for tie down
« Reply #6 on: September 21, 2004, 03:36:55 PM »

Try taking the canolis (scooter) and leaving the gun (trailer)!!! [smiley=laugh3.gif]
« Last Edit: September 21, 2004, 03:37:17 PM by the_ofender »
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Glave

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Re: Tips for tie down
« Reply #7 on: September 21, 2004, 04:45:29 PM »

Quote
Thanks all for your replies. I'll probably try to use the handlebars as an anchor point if possible. Since I'm renting a covered trailer I don't have any idea of the anchor locations yet. Hope it has the adjustable rail system in the floor.




I do have one other suggestion.  Either get 4 of the "softstrap" accessories to use with your straps.  Or loop them about 14 inches up from the hook end you want to use.  This will create a "softstrap" without the $$ [smiley=laugh.gif]  I have done this when trailering.  This way you wont take a chance on compressing any of your cables or hoses as you strap down the front end.  Oh yea don't forget that you want to strap it down hard enough on the front to compress the forks as much as possible.  This will avoid having the bike bounce and will let the trailer shocks do the work.

Have a great trip and try and off load that baby as soon as you can [smiley=bigok.gif]
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RRSteve

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Re: Tips for tie down
« Reply #8 on: September 21, 2004, 05:22:45 PM »

American Iron had a good article a few issues back about trailering and they addressed the issue of compressing the forks. It is risky to compress the forks for two reasons. One, if you compress the forks too much you are subject to damaging them. Two, if you leave any room for fork travel the bike bounces and can loosen or damage tie downs from bouncing up and down. As someone mentioned in a previous post, American Iron's advice was to block the frame of the bike and then tie it down. If you pull the bike down on the block there is no way it can bounce, eliminating the chance of damage to your suspension and the bike rides nice and steady with no bounce at all. I made a block that fit nicely under my frame, padded and covered it and I feel much more comfortable about trailering my bike now when it becomes necessary.
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SE-Dave

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Re: Tips for tie down
« Reply #9 on: September 22, 2004, 11:30:35 AM »

There is nothing worse than making a Pit Stop and opening up Your Trailer only to find Your Pride and Joy has shifted and is laying on it side [smiley=confused5.gif]or up against your Buddies Custom Ride. It has never happened to me. I am a firm believer in the Bike Pro Wheel Chock.   http://www.wikco.com/bpro1.html I have used many of Tie Downs and Chocks in my vast 30 plus years of riding and have found this one to be the Best Yet. And No I don't have stock in the company [smiley=huepfenjump3.gif].
Ride On, Dave
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Twolanerider

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Re: Tips for tie down
« Reply #10 on: September 22, 2004, 03:44:34 PM »

Ditto on the BikePro unit.  I bought one about a year ago to mount in my trailer.  Have used it a half dozen times for myself or buddies and it is an outstanding tool.  I bought a second and put it on the nose of the bike lift as it just holds the bike there and you don't need an extra pair of hands to wind up the wheel clamp.
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BLM777

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Re: Tips for tie down
« Reply #11 on: October 25, 2004, 08:56:48 AM »

Quote
Ditto on the BikePro unit.
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