Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Puma]

Thanks. Those of us that added aux lights are enjoying the extra lighting.

Super aggressive look to that exhaust. How do you like the sound as I have never heard that brand yet??  These bikes truly don't need anything as most CVO's go but I can never seem to leave them alone but I'm very content for the first 50k miles.

It sounds sweet. It sounds like a Harley should at idle, with lots of bass, but when you get on it there's a bit of a muscle car sound added to it. Very aggressive. I also picked up more power than I expected from just a pipe and tune. Dyno chart below. Your Kury aux lights look nice. Keeps the aggressive look that the CVO has going, instead of a more traditional Road King look that you would get if you had chosen a larger style.

[Driver30]

Ok, I see a lot of folks getting rid of the reflectors on the front forks and by the plate in the back.  What is the best way of getting them off?

[Bav]

I simply heated them up slightly with a hairdryer and pulled them off. I removed the residue sticky stuff with a bit of WD40. You just have to careful and not use anything to get behind them that will scratch the fork legs. Some people use fishing line or dental floss. I used a rag to pull the top away until I could get my fingers round it.

The rear one is easier as you just unbolt the licence plate light to get at it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Driver30]

Thanks Man!

[Cat Eye]

FM Jackpot 4.5" Pro Touring Mufflers
2009 HD Head Pipe De-catted (for 18mm bungs near heads)
Thundermax
Kuryakyn Aux Light Kit with Blinkers (Upgraded aux lights to LED and used Custom Dynamics LED blinker inserts)
Removed Stock Handlebar Blinkers
Paul Yaffe CVO License Plate
Black Quick Attach Hardware with Magnetic Covers
Black Mid Sissy Bar
Black Latch's for Saddlebags
Heat Demons Grip Warmers
HD 'Get a Grip' Grips in Black
Fork Lock Cover
Black Deep Headlight Ring
Engine Bridge Covers
Highway Mounts with Matching Hwy Pegs
Floor Board Extensions
Removed Heel Shifter
Lots of Bolt Caps
Removed Fork Reflectors and Seat Strap



Looks GREAT!!

Could you please let me know the part number of the Aux Light and what LED Bulb did you put in it.?


Thanks

[db252]

Looks GREAT!!

Could you please let me know the part number of the Aux Light and what LED Bulb did you put in it.?


Thanks

No problem. The lights are Kuryakyn model #5029. They come with halogen style lights which are bright and white as they are. The picture I posted above of them on is actually with the halogen lights still in them. I bought the LED replacement lights that Kury sells before looking at the halogens and put them in as I wanted them to match the LED headlight and have a lower power draw. It's easy to do during the install, but I also wired them to be on all the time as well with the brights on with no additional parts. I would recommend holding off on buying the LED aux lights and check to see if you like the halogens as they are which will save some $$. 

The bulbs that come in the blinkers were just replaced with custom dynamics LED blinker inserts. My ADD couldn't just leave bulbs in there when everything else on the bike is LED.

Does all that make sense?

[Cat Eye]

No problem. The lights are Kuryakyn model #5029. They come with halogen style lights which are bright and white as they are. The picture I posted above of them on is actually with the halogen lights still in them. I bought the LED replacement lights that Kury sells before looking at the halogens and put them in as I wanted them to match the LED headlight and have a lower power draw. It's easy to do during the install, but I also wired them to be on all the time as well with the brights on with no additional parts. I would recommend holding off on buying the LED aux lights and check to see if you like the halogens as they are which will save some $$. 

The bulbs that come in the blinkers were just replaced with custom dynamics LED blinker inserts. My ADD couldn't just leave bulbs in there when everything else on the bike is LED.

Does all that make sense?

Thanks....I am going to give these a try.  They look awesome!  Would you mind sharing where and how you wired the lights and blinkers.  I like the idea of the AUX remaining on with high beam.

I also see that you did the heat demons grip....are you happy with them and where did you tap in to get its power?

I really appreciate any pointers you can send my way....AUX lights and heated grips are on my mod list for Road King.

Cat

[db252]

Thanks....I am going to give these a try.  They look awesome!  Would you mind sharing where and how you wired the lights and blinkers.  I like the idea of the AUX remaining on with high beam.

I also see that you did the heat demons grip....are you happy with them and where did you tap in to get its power?

I really appreciate any pointers you can send my way....AUX lights and heated grips are on my mod list for Road King.

Cat

Cat, the Kuryakyn directions are very helpful and come with all the molex connectors that are needed to do the job. The blinker wires plug right into the factory harness on the left side of the neck. The aux light power will connect to power sources that are outlined in the directions. It was a happy coincidence that the wires they want you to connect to supply power weather the brights are on or not and I verified with a volt meter to be sure. You will need to remove the headlight to have access but that's all in the directions also. When you get them and if you run into any issues that you question, don't hesitate to pm me and I will get back to you. There are channels in the arms of the lights for the wiring and they will exit towards the back. On the Road Kings, we don't have access into the fork covers unless we drill a hole which I might do but I have no issue with how it is right now which is going around the cover and in the nacelle. The one thing that was odd once installed is that I had flickering of the lights on vibration which of course wouldn't do. It baffled me a bit but I finally figured it was a ground issue because the aux lights don't have a ground wire. The lights ground to the forks via the attachment bolt and ground that way. The problem was the painted surface where the bolt and washer touch. I grinded the paint off that area which is hidden by the covers anyway and that made a clean ground. They have worked perfectly ever since.
Going back to the blinkers, do you plan on keeping your stock blinkers as well?  If so, you'll have to tap into those for all 4 blinkers to work. As I said, I took mine off which I prefer. I took apart the control covers and disconnected them which are also a small molex. I cut the molex off of the wire end going through the bars and pulled them out one at a time on each side.

PROTECT YOUR PAINT



In the pic below, you can see how I have the wire routed and the bolts holding the lights to the forks are the stock ones and not the ones used in final install. Tapered bolts  and washers replace those and covers go over those. The area under the washers is what I was talking about grinding down to bare metal for grounding. I HATE seeing wires but I really don't notice these and when I do purposely look at them they don't bother me. I still may, and it's a big may, tap into the fork covers and route the wires through there including a grommet.




HEAT DEMONS

These are great and I've had them on all my bikes and installed them on my friends as well. They get extremely hot and work with any grip. I've never had one fail on my bikes or others that I have done. You can get them in chrome or black and either a right or left side switch install. The LED indicator is easy to see, has four levels of heat and is dimable. I've known too many with problems in regards to HD versions.  Power and ground was connected behind the headlight as well so if you really plan on doing both installs, do them at the same time so everything is only taken apart once. Again, feel free to pm me if any strange situations come up. Oh, there is a small modification to the switch but they have a picture guide to do it for the 14's and up....super easy.

Let me know how it goes or if you have any more questions or concerns before or during the process.

[Cat Eye]

db,
I really appreciate you taking the time to go over the wiring.  Got the parts on order and should get started it in a couple weeks.

I'll let you know how it goes.

Cat

[Cat Eye]

db,
Did you run the power for the heat demon inside the bars or outside?

thanks

cat

[db252]

db,
Did you run the power for the heat demon inside the bars or outside?

thanks

cat

Inside. They are very thin wires and are only meant to be wired that way. It is very easy to do. They supply a chase for you to run them which I recommend going from the center of the bar towards the ends and pulling the wires from the ends back to the center; it will make sense when you are looking at it. If there is a difficult part, which it really isn't, is removing the throttle by wire control. This is another reason for getting the headlight out along with the handlebar cover as a zip tie or two has to be cut so that you can back feed the wires to the throttle control so it can come out far enough. NO excessive pulling of the throttle control; it will come out as there is plenty of room for the wires to move so a slight tug only as you push the wire loom back in the bar from the center. 

[Bav]

Inside. They are very thin wires and are only meant to be wired that way. It is very easy to do. They supply a chase for you to run them which I recommend going from the center of the bar towards the ends and pulling the wires from the ends back to the center; it will make sense when you are looking at it. If there is a difficult part, which it really isn't, is removing the throttle by wire control. This is another reason for getting the headlight out along with the handlebar cover as a zip tie or two has to be cut so that you can back feed the wires to the throttle control so it can come out far enough. NO excessive pulling of the throttle control; it will come out as there is plenty of room for the wires to move so a slight tug only as you push the wire loom back in the bar from the center.

Hey db, did you have to drill a hole in the bars for the controller?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[db252]

Hey db, did you have to drill a hole in the bars for the controller?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

No sir.  There is plenty of room.  I did install my controller on the left side so I can't speak for an install on the right but I can't imagine that it would be an issue over there since bars are usually cut the same way for wiring on both sides.  There is no right or wrong side......I just prefer control items on the non-throttle side.

[Bav]

Great that's good. I want mine on the left also so just need to get them ordered now. Thanks for your help.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[db252]

Also, I forgot to add, in regards to the Heat Demons, you will use the aluminum insert on the left side and the stick back element on the right side overlapping the throttle control thus the reason for needing it to be out of the bar.

Bav, since your steering wheels r on the wrong side over there, does that mean your throttle is on the left??

Kidding of course. I want that registration (plate) when your done with it.