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CVO Technical => Twin Cam => Topic started by: unchained on March 25, 2013, 10:45:41 AM
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I can have a complete 110 kit installed including an oil cooler, Baker + 1 oil pan and Power commander for about $2,700 on my 07 Street Glide. It’s a newer kit with improved liners and valve guides, but am wondering if I'm just asking for trouble for just mediocre power and a hot right leg or if done right, a 110 (9.3:1 and 255 cams, etc) is a good powerplant. I want more power obviously but I realize this is not going to be a 100 hp, just want to be reliable and be able to ride 2 up loaded down and keep up.
If it matters, I have a new Thunderheader X series 2-1 going on it this spring too...
Thanks,,,
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Maybe look at the cost comparison of using 4.125" bore S&S cylinders, that'll get you 117 inches.
And there's no reason to believe that you won't have a minimum of 100 HP with a 110, as long as you don't use the 255 cams. You can build reliable power with the right mix of parts, and a good tune.
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I agree. The 255= a big NO
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I was told expect around 92 hp, maybe more with the TH x series but reliability, gas mileage and bang for my buck is really what I'm concerned about. 90+ hp and thousands of trouble free miles with respectable mpg for $2,700 seems like a good plan but the 110 horror stories on the internet have me concerned...
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It has 255 cams too :(
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What cams should I look into then for that engine?
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There a a lot of different cams that you could choose from. Something like a Feuling 574 would do the trick. Here's one dyno chart from their site, they have others there for 110 combinations.
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92HP from a 110 is :(
You can have HP and reliability. There are a lot of new cams out there....I can't give you recommendations on that, but there seems to be a heep of folks hear that can.
Your tuner can help you with fuel mileage. A TTS, Direct Link or the like can make that more do-able.
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The problem with a cam kit is now $2,700 complete is out the window. What's the biggest beef with the 255's that come with the 110?
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Here we go again. Another thread where "simple" is going to turn into "major." You'll all have him doing the bottom end, porting his heads, doing lifters and whatever else before he's all done when all he wants to do is spend $2700 to get a decent-running 110". LOL
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Basically you said you would like to get to 100hp. the 255 will make that difficult, or not doable. I don't want to post dyno charts from individuals without their consent, but most will peak around 90hp to 93hp, and that's with an experienced tuner. Maybe someone has done it, but I haven't seen it.
For that fact, you can have your bike bored to a 103, have mild head work done, pick a nice cam for a 103, there are lots of them, and make way over 100hp, and 115 torque. And in my opinion be more reliable. You could get all that I'm sure for the same price or less. Don't know who is doing your work dealer or other, most dealers will shy away from much that's not HD parts, but I understand that too.
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Here we go again. Another thread where "simple" is going to turn into "major." You'll all have him doing the bottom end, porting his heads, doing lifters and whatever else before he's all done when all he wants to do is spend $2700 to get a decent-running 110". LOL
Great Post! :2vrolijk_21:
Very easy to get carried away and loose sight of your goal!
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See if they will let you swap the cams out for the Fueling 574, andrews 54, or the new Kury cams, set the compression a bit higher than stock with the .030 head gasket and you'll have many miles ans smiles :2vrolijk_21:
Also I would not use the x-series thunder header on this built. It is too much pipe for a 110 with a cam. The standard Thunder Header, D&D Fatcat, or the Bassani would be better 2-1 choices
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I misread your post, you had said you realized it wouldn't hit 100hp. So then there is no issues, the 92hp you were given as an estimate is pretty accurate I would say.
But, it's your call, like I said you could in fact do all that without splitting the cases, just punch it to 103, mild head work, nice mid range cam, you would be good to go.
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Here we go again. Another thread where "simple" is going to turn into "major." You'll all have him doing the bottom end, porting his heads, doing lifters and whatever else before he's all done when all he wants to do is spend $2700 to get a decent-running 110". LOL
Agreed
I think I would have a conversation with some of the Vendors in this Forum or maybe call someone like Dave Mackie Engineering.
The Mega-Sphere™
For Twin-Cam 88" - 95" and 96" - 103" Engines
http://www.davemackie.com/twincam.html
DR
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I realize $2,700 including a deep oil pan and oil cooler, labor and tuning isn't very much money. Its a package that I'm considering but I realize I have a thousand options for $2,700. The dealer wanted $2,300 for just cams, air cleaner and tuning. I have read so many horror stories about the 110 that it explains why he's selling it for $1,100 (parts)...
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Here we go again. Another thread where "simple" is going to turn into "major." You'll all have him doing the bottom end, porting his heads, doing lifters and whatever else before he's all done when all he wants to do is spend $2700 to get a decent-running 110". LOL
Exactly, I'm really fishing for comments about the 110 and if doing oil cooler and oil pan along with tuning makes it a viable option for decent power, reliability, etc...
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I realize $2,700 including a deep oil pan and oil cooler, labor and tuning isn't very much money. Its a package that I'm considering but I realize I have a thousand options for $2,700. The dealer wanted $2,300 for just cams, air cleaner and tuning. I have read so many horror stories about the 110 that it explains why he's selling it for $1,100 (parts)...
That's the only reason I say that maybe a 103 will be more reliable for you. I know that most guys have no issues with their 110's, but then there are enough that have had issues to make me shy away. I personally have an '08 SG that's 107" and my '09 Ultra is bone stock 96". The 96" isn't the fastest guy in the pack, put it runs OK. It'll become a 103 in a few years, with mild heads, a small bump in compression, and most likely the Feuling 574, or the Andrews 57 sticks.
I would weigh all the options, pro and con, then make a choice. In the end you just want more get up and go, and reliability is paramount for most of us.
One of the best things you can do for the '07 SG is lower the gearing, it's a power killer. I bet you only use 6th on the highway around 65mph or higher? There are a couple options for doing that relatively easy. It makes a huge difference.
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That's the only reason I say that maybe a 103 will be more reliable for you. I know that most guys have no issues with their 110's, but then there are enough that have had issues to make me shy away. I personally have an '08 SG that's 107" and my '09 Ultra is bone stock 96". The 96" isn't the fastest guy in the pack, put it runs OK. It'll become a 103 in a few years, with mild heads, a small bump in compression, and most likely the Feuling 574, or the Andrews 57 sticks.
I would weigh all the options, pro and con, then make a choice. In the end you just want more get up and go, and reliability is paramount for most of us.
One of the best things you can do for the '07 SG is lower the gearing, it's a power killer. I bet you only use 6th on the highway around 65mph or higher? There are a couple options for doing that relatively easy. It makes a huge difference.
I agree with the 103 CID
My SE103 has 40K now and still runs like a champ, No issues.
2 Up is not a problem.
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I agree with the 103 CID
My SE103 has 40K now and still runs like a champ, No issues.
2 Up is not a problem.
When you did your 103 did you use SE heads or keep the stock off the 96?
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When you did your 103 did you use SE heads or keep the stock off the 96?
Mine is a 03 CVO SE103 RK and OEM with the SE103 Heads, Cylinders etc.
Have you considered or asked about something like this?
Screamin' Eagle® Big Bore Stage I Kit for EFI Models - 103 Cubic Inches
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/gma_product.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524448769835&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302319503&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302319503&bmUID=1364230690164&bmLocale=en_ca
This Big Bore Kit lets you increase the displacement of your Twin Cam 96™-equipped model from 96 cubic inches (1584cc) to 103 cubic inches (1690cc). Includes Big Bore cylinders, Big Bore flat top piston assemblies and a Stage I Air Cleaner Kit with one-piece back plate, integral breathers, all mounting hardware, and gaskets. A high performance clutch spring is included to provide the additional clutch capacity required by the extra torque.Requires separate purchase of primary cover gasket. This kit is street legal when used with stock mufflers. (Not all components shown.) All EFI-equipped models require ECM calibration (priced separately).
Fits '07 Twin Cam and '08-later Softail® models equipped with a Twin Cam 96™ engine.
MSRP US $699.95
For and extra $1K or so, you can get a set of SE!)# heads
That puts you around $1,700 or $1,800 for Parts
Whatever you elect to do, do not forget you will be asking the clutch to Hold More TQ & HP.
Also did they mention ACRs or CRs? You starter is going to be taxed to crank that Biger Motor/Higher Compression over.
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Mine is a 03 CVO SE103 RK and OEM with the SE103 Heads, Cylinders etc.
Have you considered or asked about something like this?
Screamin' Eagle® Big Bore Stage I Kit for EFI Models - 103 Cubic Inches
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/gma_product.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524448769835&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302319503&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302319503&bmUID=1364230690164&bmLocale=en_ca
This Big Bore Kit lets you increase the displacement of your Twin Cam 96™-equipped model from 96 cubic inches (1584cc) to 103 cubic inches (1690cc). Includes Big Bore cylinders, Big Bore flat top piston assemblies and a Stage I Air Cleaner Kit with one-piece back plate, integral breathers, all mounting hardware, and gaskets. A high performance clutch spring is included to provide the additional clutch capacity required by the extra torque.Requires separate purchase of primary cover gasket. This kit is street legal when used with stock mufflers. (Not all components shown.) All EFI-equipped models require ECM calibration (priced separately).
Fits '07 Twin Cam and '08-later Softail® models equipped with a Twin Cam 96™ engine.
MSRP US $699.95
For and extra $1K or so, you can get a set of SE!)# heads
That puts you around $1,700 or $1,800 for Parts
Whatever you elect to do, do not forget you will be asking the clutch to Hold More TQ & HP.
Also did they mention ACRs or CRs?
You starter is going to be taxed to crank that Biger Motor/Higher Compression over.
ACR or CR? Sorry, Im a newbie and not up on all of the acronyms. Also, at 9.3:1, it seems like it wouldn't be much harder to roll over compared to the stock 10 or 10.2:1 and I thought the se 110 kit required a wire harness for auto decompression?
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Ahhhh, auto compression, compression release. Gotcha, yes, that was included :2vrolijk_21:
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Mine is a 03 CVO SE103 RK and OEM with the SE103 Heads, Cylinders etc.
Have you considered or asked about something like this?
Screamin' Eagle® Big Bore Stage I Kit for EFI Models - 103 Cubic Inches
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/gma_product.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524448769835&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302319503&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302319503&bmUID=1364230690164&bmLocale=en_ca
This Big Bore Kit lets you increase the displacement of your Twin Cam 96™-equipped model from 96 cubic inches (1584cc) to 103 cubic inches (1690cc). Includes Big Bore cylinders, Big Bore flat top piston assemblies and a Stage I Air Cleaner Kit with one-piece back plate, integral breathers, all mounting hardware, and gaskets. A high performance clutch spring is included to provide the additional clutch capacity required by the extra torque.Requires separate purchase of primary cover gasket. This kit is street legal when used with stock mufflers. (Not all components shown.) All EFI-equipped models require ECM calibration (priced separately).
Fits '07 Twin Cam and '08-later Softail® models equipped with a Twin Cam 96™ engine.
MSRP US $699.95
For and extra $1K or so, you can get a set of SE!)# heads
That puts you around $1,700 or $1,800 for Parts
Whatever you elect to do, do not forget you will be asking the clutch to Hold More TQ & HP.
Also did they mention ACRs or CRs? You starter is going to be taxed to crank that Biger Motor/Higher Compression over.
Yes you are right, $1,800 and I can have parts to build a 103 but with same stock cams. Labor will be another $500. For $2,100 total including all gaskets and the wire harness for the ACR, Power commander and tuning, I can have a complete se 110 (yes with 255 cams though). The $2,700 number was for the oil cooler and Baker +1 oil pan. It seems logical to do the 110 over a 103 for more money but I know nothing in life is free. Hence why I'm on here...
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Yes you are right, $1,800 and I can have parts to build a 103 but with same stock cams. Labor will be another $500. For $2,100 total including all gaskets and the wire harness for the ACR, Power commander and tuning, I can have a complete se 110 (yes with 255 cams though). The $2,700 number was for the oil cooler and Baker +1 oil pan. It seems logical to do the 110 over a 103 for more money but I know nothing in life is free. Hence why I'm on here...
Why do you need a new Oil Pan?
To each his own dream.Given the choice, I will take the SE103 over the 110 any day.
Do the 110 Cylinders fit your case?
A little light reading for you
Recommended Upgrades for 2007/2008 HD Twin Cam engine
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd2007HD_performance_upgrades.htm
Certainly NOT saying this is the End All on Advise
I have been down the rode you are headed a long time agaon with a VW Bug.
Great deal on a 185 Hp 2.0 Liter Engine, which it was.
Needless to say the Clutch needed to be replaced and then the Transaxel needed to be replaced and several other things.
I just get the feeling that this is something Your dealer wants to sell you and that when all is said and done it will be much more than the $2,700 qouted to make your truely happy.
But that is just my 2 cents worth
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Why do you need a new Oil Pan?
To each his own dream.Given the choice, I will take the SE103 over the 110 any day.
Do the 110 Cylinders fit your case?
Added oil capacity to help keep it cool. The cases have to split and machined, that was included in the $2,700 price.
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Why do you need a new Oil Pan?
A real question for sure. That Baker pan is as much smoke as it is fire. Know personally of four bikes with it installed. I did two of them. One of them the bike's owner is sure the pan allows for cooler oil, a better running engine, helps him get girls and it solved his cat's furball problem. He's sure of this because he's always sure that anything he buys is always good and/or better because he refuses to accept he might be a schmuck and could have spent a buck unnecessarily.
The other three, however, don't really see any difference in real life use.
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Added oil capacity to help keep it cool. The cases have to split and machined, that was included in the $2,700 price.
I have my opinion on the oil temperature. A cooler, yes it will help, adding some additional oil capacity, really would only help if it was not enough to begin with. Once the motor reaches temperature, and the oil does as well, it'll stabilize in the oil pan to the running temperature of the returning oil. In my opinion, I don't think you would be able to measure any beneficial change. I had asked Baker very politely as to how they were arriving at their estimates of temperature reduction, simply because I was interested in it, they won't discuss it.
Just my 2 cents, but I'd save that oil pan money for something else, or just as a savings in the project cost.
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I have my opinion on the oil temperature. A cooler, yes it will help, adding some additional oil capacity, really would only help if it was not enough to begin with. Once the motor reaches temperature, and the oil does as well, it'll stabilize in the oil pan to the running temperature of the returning oil. In my opinion, I don't think you would be able to measure any beneficial change. I had asked Baker very politely as to how they were arriving at their estimates of temperature reduction, simply because I was interested in it, they won't discuss it.
Just my 2 cents, but I'd save that oil pan money for something else, or just as a savings in the project cost.
Heat soaked is heat soaked. It might take a tiny bit longer to get fully heat soaked. Of course the greater volume would also then take a tiny bit longer to cool back down.
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:-\ "I realize $2,700 including a deep oil pan and oil cooler, labor and tuning isn't very much money. Its a package that I'm considering but I realize I have a thousand options for $2,700. The dealer wanted $2,300 for just cams, air cleaner and tuning. I have read so many horror stories about the 110 that it explains why he's selling it for $1,100 (parts)... "
Could you clear up just how your (dealer) gets you to "110" with the parts described :confused5: I'm assuming you have a stock 96, with the "big bore" HD cylinders (kit), you get to 103..........(The same cylinders that make an 88 into a 95).
Now, to get 110 cylinders, you gotta have the cases split and bored out to accept the larger jugs. For the price quoted, I see no where that this is planned, nor do I see a "stroker" crank involved.
So please relate how it gets to 110. :nixweiss:
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:-\ "I realize $2,700 including a deep oil pan and oil cooler, labor and tuning isn't very much money. Its a package that I'm considering but I realize I have a thousand options for $2,700. The dealer wanted $2,300 for just cams, air cleaner and tuning. I have read so many horror stories about the 110 that it explains why he's selling it for $1,100 (parts)... "
Could you clear up just how your (dealer) gets you to "110" with the parts described :confused5: I'm assuming you have a stock 96, with the "big bore" HD cylinders (kit), you get to 103..........(The same cylinders that make an 88 into a 95).
Now, to get 110 cylinders, you gotta have the cases split and bored out to accept the larger jugs. For the price quoted, I see no where that this is planned, nor do I see a "stroker" crank involved.
So please relate how it gets to 110. :nixweiss:
Exactly
lookin in the SE Cat, A Stroker Flywheel and rod assembly is around $750
Youcould alsospend another $259 - $400 for a Performance Clutch to hold that 110
And I have been told by more than one good wrench, splitting the case in not a great idea.
And how about the Throttle Body?
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Here we go again. Another thread where "simple" is going to turn into "major." You'll all have him doing the bottom end, porting his heads, doing lifters and whatever else before he's all done when all he wants to do is spend $2700 to get a decent-running 110". LOL
And a supercharger!!
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See if they will let you swap the cams out for the Fueling 574, andrews 54, or the new Kury cams, set the compression a bit higher than stock with the .030 head gasket and you'll have many miles ans smiles :2vrolijk_21:
Also I would not use the x-series thunder header on this built. It is too much pipe for a 110 with a cam. The standard Thunder Header, D&D Fatcat, or the Bassani would be better 2-1 choices
Great advice... You need to go no further than this... :2vrolijk_21:
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Just another opinion, but use your money for a 103 or cam and add a little compression to your 96. Long term it will work out best for you. I am looking at spending that $2700 your talking about plus some to get rid of the 110. Once you 110 your case your kind of stuck there. You will be far happier with the 103, but if you just have to have cubes do the 113 kit so 5 years from now when that's not enough....and in 5 years it will not be, you have the case left to do 117 or bigger.
Just my 2 cents.
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:-\ "I realize $2,700 including a deep oil pan and oil cooler, labor and tuning isn't very much money. Its a package that I'm considering but I realize I have a thousand options for $2,700. The dealer wanted $2,300 for just cams, air cleaner and tuning. I have read so many horror stories about the 110 that it explains why he's selling it for $1,100 (parts)... "
Could you clear up just how your (dealer) gets you to "110" with the parts described :confused5: I'm assuming you have a stock 96, with the "big bore" HD cylinders (kit), you get to 103..........(The same cylinders that make an 88 into a 95).
Now, to get 110 cylinders, you gotta have the cases split and bored out to accept the larger jugs. For the price quoted, I see no where that this is planned, nor do I see a "stroker" crank involved.
So please relate how it gets to 110. :nixweiss:
http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/mcy/3613487570.html
Not a HD dealer, Bad Pig Customs in metro Detroit. With no cooler and oil pan was $2,100 complete including a Power commander 3 (I believe) and tuned. I was leaning towards throwing a cooler on it for $300 but skipping the oil pan. It almost seems to good to be true for $2,100 hence why I'm on here asking for opinions...
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See if they will let you swap the cams out for the Fueling 574, andrews 54, or the new Kury cams, set the compression a bit higher than stock with the .030 head gasket and you'll have many miles ans smiles :2vrolijk_21:
Also I would not use the x-series thunder header on this built. It is too much pipe for a 110 with a cam. The standard Thunder Header, D&D Fatcat, or the Bassani would be better 2-1 choices
I already bought the X series, will be here today. What is your experience with the X series vs. the original Thunderheader?
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OK, I note in the write-up that they do have to bore out the cases as I said......."Kit includes all required gaskets (except primary cover and transmission interface gasket) and hardware to complete the installation. Installation requires case boring. "
That is a lot of labor and parts for the money, if you have validated that they are a competent shop with a history of "happy" customers, I'd say go for it. :drink:
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::)
OK, I note in the write-up that they do have to bore out the cases as I said......."Kit includes all required gaskets (except primary cover and transmission interface gasket) and hardware to complete the installation. Installation requires case boring. "
That is a lot of labor and parts for the money, if you have validated that they are a competent shop with a history of "happy" customers, I'd say go for it. :drink:
I don't have references from prior work they have done honestly. It would be a gamble on my part...
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I already bought the X series, will be here today. What is your experience with the X series vs. the original Thunderheader?
The x series is meant to be used on large bore engines, ie well built 117" and larger. It will not provide enough back pressure for a smaller engine.
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The x series is meant to be used on large bore engines, ie well built 117" and larger. It will not provide enough back pressure for a smaller engine.
I was told its for the newer 96" on up engines. Too late anyhow, I already own one... :bigcry:
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The x series is meant to be used on large bore engines, ie well built 117" and larger. It will not provide enough back pressure for a smaller engine.
Is this your observation from what you've read, personal experience, friend bought one then and removed it, talked to Thunderheader, etc?
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I am a Thunder Header Dealer. When this pipe first came out we used them on the 120R and 124" motors they worked very well. The minimum they state you can use it on is a 110". By Nature the Thunder Header has a torque dip in the low RPM's and this is exaggerated with the x series as it has less back pressure than the standard Thunder Header.
You can use it and it will work, just not the pipe of choice for a stock 110" engine. You will be leaving lower end performance on the table.
http://www.thunderheader.net/1074x.htm
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I am a Thunder Header Dealer. When this pipe first came out we used them on the 120R and 124" motors they worked very well. The minimum they state you can use it on is a 110". By Nature the Thunder Header has a torque dip in the low RPM's and this is exaggerated with the x series as it has less back pressure than the standard Thunder Header.
You can use it and it will work, just not the pipe of choice for a stock 110" engine. You will be leaving lower end performance on the table.
http://www.thunderheader.net/1074x.htm
That's great info, thank you. Kind of a big bummer since I officially own one now but it should still run better than my stock crossover set up Im running right now...
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That's great info, thank you. Kind of a big bummer since I officially own one now but it should still run better than my stock crossover set up Im running right now...
Maybe not....the stock "catless header" is actually pretty efficient.
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Maybe not....the stock "catless header" is actually pretty efficient.
I'll take my chances I guess. The stock half ass dual/2 into 1 header is coming off for a TH x series. Wish me luck at this point...
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I do see that the TH X series is a straight 2" primary where Dragos and D&D, etc all have stepped headers. Maybe I'll just have to say F it and put a 117 on it now! :drink:
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I do see that the TH X series is a straight 2" primary where Dragos and D&D, etc all have stepped headers. Maybe I'll just have to say F it and put a 117 on it now! :drink:
I wouldn't necessarily recommend building a motor to suit a pipe. More sense to install a pipe to suit the motor. If your not sure you have the right pipe for your build, there's always the "selling" board. Or ebay... :nixweiss:
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I wouldn't necessarily recommend building a motor to suit a pipe. More sense to install a pipe to suit the motor. If your not sure you have the right pipe for your build, there's always the "selling" board. Or ebay... :nixweiss:
This probably sounds ignorant but I love all things Thunderheader and I love the looks of this X series. Yes it's retarded (an expression, not being insensitive here) to build an engine around the exhaust but I already have the exhaust and about 2k to spend. I'm going to do the 110 build and hope for the best. Dropping it off Friday and will post results and honest feedback to follow...
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Well things have changed. The same guy with the 110 kit also has a brand new take out 2013 103" with 0 miles and se 255 cams already. If I sell my 07 96" (13k miles) for around $1,500 (quick sale), I should end up with a nice little 103 for just a few bucks more than doing the 110. I'm feeling a lot better about going this route than taking a risk on the 110. Thanks for the 4 pages of replies, comments and advice...
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well that should be a fabulous deal
make sure you get the engine title numbers straight at your dmv to avoid future hassles
as time goes on whole engine swaps get cheaper than fixing. i deal with a fair number of ford pickup diesels & when its all said and done the complete pre run engine is either the same or cheaper than rebuilding, long block, or short block. and the issues with future reliability and warranty is much better with the complete engine... *sigh* i liked doing the work but it doesn't pay.....
later
to
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Well things have changed. The same guy with the 110 kit also has a brand new take out 2013 103" with 0 miles and se 255 cams already. If I sell my 07 96" (13k miles) for around $1,500 (quick sale), I should end up with a nice little 103 for just a few bucks more than doing the 110. I'm feeling a lot better about going this route than taking a risk on the 110. Thanks for the 4 pages of replies, comments and advice...
Sonds like a very solid plan.
Is this 103 out of a CVO Model or is it from a Basic Model?
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Well things have changed. The same guy with the 110 kit also has a brand new take out 2013 103" with 0 miles and se 255 cams already. If I sell my 07 96" (13k miles) for around $1,500 (quick sale), I should end up with a nice little 103 for just a few bucks more than doing the 110. I'm feeling a lot better about going this route than taking a risk on the 110. Thanks for the 4 pages of replies, comments and advice...
Going to run the Thunderheader X series pipe on the 103 motor?
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Going to run the Thunderheader X series pipe on the 103 motor?
At this point, yes. It actually runs really good on the stock 96 so I'll give it a whirl on the cammed 103 and go from there I guess...
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Sonds like a very solid plan.
Is this 103 out of a CVO Model or is it from a Basic Model?
Well it is a 2013 103 with SE 255 cams and gloss black cam and rocker box covers. I was told it came out right at the dealership and has 0 miles. I would assume its a CVO 103 but I'm not 100% positive. Other than 255 cams, what else would be different on the CVO 103?
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well that should be a fabulous deal
make sure you get the engine title numbers straight at your dmv to avoid future hassles
as time goes on whole engine swaps get cheaper than fixing. i deal with a fair number of ford pickup diesels & when its all said and done the complete pre run engine is either the same or cheaper than rebuilding, long block, or short block. and the issues with future reliability and warranty is much better with the complete engine... *sigh* i liked doing the work but it doesn't pay.....
later
to
Yes, I couldn't get cams, air cleaner and tuning done for under 2k so the 110 build seemed like a great value but I chickened out at the last min. So,,, less than 4k for a 2013 cvo 103 with 0 miles, installed, tuned and ready to ride plus I can probably sell my low mile 96" for around $1,500, puts me at around $2,500 net into it when its all said and done. Good point about the engine numbers, I didn't even think about that aspect...
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Well it is a 2013 103 with SE 255 cams and gloss black cam and rocker box covers. I was told it came out right at the dealership and has 0 miles. I would assume its a CVO 103 but I'm not 100% positive. Other than 255 cams, what else would be different on the CVO 103?
That is not a "CVO" 103... in 2013 CVO's came w/110 motors.
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
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The last CVO103 was installed at the factory in the 2006 model year, so obviously it's not a CVO103. And yes, there is a big difference between a CVO103 and the late model 103. A late model factory 103 is just a big bore version of the TC96, like a TC95 was a big bore version of a TC88. Larger pistons and oversized bores.
Jerry
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The last CVO103 was installed at the factory in the 2006 model year, so obviously it's not a CVO103. And yes, there is a big difference between a CVO103 and the late model 103. A late model factory 103 is just a big bore version of the TC96, like a TC95 was a big bore version of a TC88. Larger pistons and oversized bores.
Jerry
Which is why I asked the OP about the Motor.
Just a guess here based on what HD wants for a remanufactured TC 102. I would say $4K +/- for a new 103
Harley sells the SE Twin Cam 103A for $4,995
This would certainly make a difference in what should be paid for the motor they are offering the OP.
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That is not a "CVO" 103... in 2013 CVO's came w/110 motors.
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
I wonder if the owner had dealer installed 255 cams then changed his mind and opted for the 124 S&S? Otherwise how else would a 2013 103 have 255 cams with 0 miles I guess?
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I wonder if the owner had dealer installed 255 cams then changed his mind and opted for the 124 S&S? Otherwise how else would a 2013 103 have 255 cams with 0 miles I guess?
IMHO Everyone here is pulling for you to end up with a Very Positive result that Puts A Big Smile on Your Face.
Maybe a few more questions on the deal would be in order????
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IMHO Everyone here is pulling for you to end up with a Very Positive result that Puts A Big Smile on Your Face.
Maybe a few more questions on the deal would be in order????
Yes I know. I have no doubt every comment and alternate perspective was intended to help me. I sincerely appreciate the support, especially being a newbie. I will get some more answers for sure as to how a factory 103 with 0 miles has se 255 cams, etc...
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Yes as I figured, the guy bought the bike new, blacked out the engine, did the 255's then jumped into the S&S 124 before he even picked the bike up. My bike is now on the lift and will be ready early next week. Screaming Eagle clutching and Thundermax auto tune going on as well. Can't frickin wait :orange:
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103 installed and she sounds bad ass, waiting now on the Thundermax auto tune to arrive and the rain to stop here in Michigan...
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Good move. I am putting the 103 kit with 255's in my ultra right now, doing the work myself. I am also installing compression releases and the wiring harness, I imagine because your 103 is a newer one it came with them installed. The bike still needs the wiring harness and a computer reflash to "see" the CR's.
Let us all know how you like it!
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103 installed and she sounds bad ass, waiting now on the Thundermax auto tune to arrive and the rain to stop here in Michigan...
Certainly interested in what numbers you get with the Dyno Tune.
DR
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Good move. I am putting the 103 kit with 255's in my ultra right now, doing the work myself. I am also installing compression releases and the wiring harness, I imagine because your 103 is a newer one it came with them installed. The bike still needs the wiring harness and a computer reflash to "see" the CR's.
Let us all know how you like it!
Yes, I did the wire harness and the Zippers Thundermax will control the ACR. I spoke with Zippers and they said no need for a dealer reflash with a Tmax auto tune...
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Good move. I am putting the 103 kit with 255's in my ultra right now, doing the work myself. I am also installing compression releases and the wiring harness
, I imagine because your 103 is a newer one it came with them installed. The bike still needs the wiring harness and a computer reflash to "see" the CR's.
Let us all know how you like it!
So, wiring the ACR wasn't as straight forward as I expected. Let me know how yours went, I might need a little help with this part. thanks,,,
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With my new 2013 103, what is different from 2007 to 2013? Better crank hopefully? Lifters? Just curious what's improved or maybe even gone backwards (hopefully not)...
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Well, my bike is 98% done. Finish installing the rear most Thunderheader heat shield and also install the chrome rotor bolts and a good wash and wax.
Did the 103 engine swap
Blacked out the engine
Custom wheels
Exhaust
Powder coated front rotors, etc, etc
She runs excellent with the Tmax running the system. Great power from the 103, revs fast and pulls hard when rolling on. The 17" deuce rear with a 160 handles great too. I'm happy with the custom 18" front after strongly considering a 21. I have a few more things to do to complete the look but otherwise, it's ready for warm-dry weather here in Michigan...
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Another pic
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Another
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Last one
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, I imagine because your 103 is a newer one it came with them installed. The bike still needs the wiring harness and a computer reflash to "see" the CR's.
Let us all know how you like it!
So, wiring the ACR wasn't as straight forward as I expected. Let me know how yours went, I might need a little help with this part. thanks,,,
PM sent. I am sure happy with my103 and 255's.
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The Vance & Hines power duals, monster ovals and Harley Super Tuner and 1hr of dyno time got my 2011 SERG a hair over the magic number of 100hp. No cam.
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TW777's seem to b good results (for 110)
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Its totally possible to get over 100 hp w 255 cams and the right tuner. Doc did mine im running 107 hp 121tq.
The heads were done by tman to keep the curve going up on the right when the cams start to fall off.
Pulls like a train from 2700 to 4900 rpms.
I could have gotten about 5 more hp but i wanted more baffling in the muffflers which cost me hp.