Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[joe_lyons50023]

I suggest Gmr 577 or wt 24d.  These cams were pretty much made for 110 motors.  Use some known good lifters such as anything other than stock and Jim's.  I like comp cams vthunder 850.  Gmr has lifters that are very nice as does razorback performance. The s&s lifters are also pretty nice but all that is needed are their regular lifters.  A good tune and you won't be unhappy.  Shouldn't loose any anywhere. And a possible bump in compression will only help things.

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

10.0 cr, S&S .570, S&S pushrods and lifters............done.
Scott

[OBB]

Here's a YouTube video from J&P Cycle regarding the cutting of stock pushrods and the installation of adjustables.  Good tutorial that may answer some of your questions.

Thanks for the video. It helps me understand what people are talking about when mentioning this stuff. Visual aide is always good. 

[deldago]

Is the additional compression needed to get the most out of a cam change as simple as using a thinner head gasket?

[joe_lyons50023]

Is the additional compression needed to get the most out of a cam change as simple as using a thinner head gasket?

It helps

[Fullsac Performance]

Okay, here is the plan:

Screamin Eagle Tapered Adjustable Push Rod Kit (Part # 18404-08), JIM's POWERGLIDE STEADY ROLL TAPPETS, and S&S 585 cam.  Leaving the rocker boxes untouched with stock springs.

Anyone see any problems with this, before I move forward?  Also, are the stock 110 cu in lifters hydraulic or solid?

BTW, does anyone know part number for the best Jim's Powerglide lifters, there are several?


Thank Again,

dnlpnd

Just remember, you asked. Lol...

You are on your way to building a big giant turd. A 110" engine with some of the poorest bottom end performance imaginable.
Sorry I had to say it. I know there is at least two others here who are thinking it too.

Problem one:
True dual exhaust with 2.5 cores in the mufflers. This is one of the worst possible exhaust combinations for overall performance and any trace of decent bottom end power. Your 02 sensors are already in the fight of its life trying to deal with reversion caused by the huge 2.5 cores. Add more cam and the reversion gets worse. I know it doesn't sound right, smaller is faster in this situation.

Problem two:
585 cam with stock compression? No way.This combined with your exhaust would finish destroying your bottom end power and turn your Harley into a big 125 two stroke. You would be slipping the clutch to take off and downshifting three gears to pass a Vespa. As mentioned by others, you need way more compression to even consider this cam, and IMO an increase with any of the others cams mentioned just to maintain your current low end power. I understand you don't want to "break the seal" and that's OK. Choose a smaller cam and downsize your muffler cores, it will be a new bike!


Steve@fullsac.com

[Puma]

Just remember, you asked. Lol...

You are on your way to building a big giant turd. A 110" engine with some of the poorest bottom end performance imaginable.
Sorry I had to say it. I know there is at least two others here who are thinking it too.

Problem one:
True dual exhaust with 2.5 cores in the mufflers. This is one of the worst possible exhaust combinations for overall performance and any trace of decent bottom end power. Your 02 sensors are already in the fight of its life trying to deal with reversion caused by the huge 2.5 cores. Add more cam and the reversion gets worse. I know it doesn't sound right, smaller is faster in this situation.

Problem two:
585 cam with stock compression? No way.This combined with your exhaust would finish destroying your bottom end power and turn your Harley into a big 125 two stroke. You would be slipping the clutch to take off and downshifting three gears to pass a Vespa. As mentioned by others, you need way more compression to even consider this cam, and IMO an increase with any of the others cams mentioned just to maintain your current low end power. I understand you don't want to "break the seal" and that's OK. Choose a smaller cam and downsize your muffler cores, it will be a new bike!


Steve@fullsac.com

I'm glad you said it Steve. The 110 makes great torque down low. I'm not sure why you'd want to move the power up to the higher rpm. Compared to what you have now, you'd notice a big difference just going to a 2into1 exhaust or a 2-1-2 like his Fullsac DX, or FuelMoto.

[Ridgerunr]

I live in the hills where low tq is appreciated. A good head pipe, with Kury Crusher mellows, 24D cams, and a so so tune got my 110" 113 peak tq , breaking 100 @ 2600 rpm, and not falling on it's face at 4300 rpm like it did with the 255's. It's not a "barn stormer" but it's way better than it was.

[dnlpnd]

First off, the video for the cam change from J&P was great!  I do have some questions as a result of watching the video.  1.) Does the twin cam 2104 110 cu in have gear driven timing and gear driven cam synchronization or chain?  2.) The video recommends replacing the cam bearings at any mileage (mine has 3,100 miles), does everyone concur?  I suppose to be safe the S&S camshaft kit with new bearings and gears would be recommended.

Secondly, wow on the big giant turd comment!  Granted the S&S 585 maybe is going a bit too far on an essentially stock engine with very free flowing pipes, but if I did the Fueling 274, GMR 577, or WT 24D don't you think the killing of the bottom end would be mitigated?  I expect to loose a tiny bit bottom end compared to stock, but it seems like a good trade for the increased power on the other ~70% of the available RPM range.  The 110 cu in does stop making power quite early in the RPM range.  As one mechanic told me, "what the big deal about not making power before 2500 RPM, you shouldn't be wanting to make power down there unless you like to lug your bike."

Thirdly, with the comment about the O2 sensors being in "fight of their life".  I can't argue that, but clearly a cam change would push the O2 sensors out of range.  The Power Vision Pro AutoTune Kit (with wide band O2 sensors) would get the sensors back into nominal ranges...right?

I like my sound of my Rinehart Extreme Duals with 2.5 cores.  If my wife would permit, I'd put on Paul Yaffee 4.5 Monstas with 2.75 cores.

I sincerely appreciate the feedback and I am not trying be stubborn or disrespectful.

Thanks,

dnlpnd

p.s  I see S&S does make a "570: Designed for 88 to 96 CID engines with compression ratios between 9:1 and 10:1 this cam will provide a nice power increase across the entire power band. 3200-5700 rpm."  Am I correct in assuming everyone would recommend this cam for my 110, if I want to go with the S&S cam kit and premium lifters

[Fullsac Performance]

First off, the video for the cam change from J&P was great!  I do have some questions as a result of watching the video.  1.) Does the twin cam 2104 110 cu in have gear driven timing and gear driven cam synchronization or chain?  2.) The video recommends replacing the cam bearings at any mileage (mine has 3,100 miles), does everyone concur?  I suppose to be safe the S&S camshaft kit with new bearings and gears would be recommended.

Secondly, wow on the big giant turd comment!  Granted the S&S 585 maybe is going a bit too far on an essentially stock engine with very free flowing pipes, but if I did the Fueling 274, GMR 577, or WT 24D don't you think the killing of the bottom end would be mitigated?  I expect to loose a tiny bit bottom end compared to stock, but it seems like a good trade for the increased power on the other ~70% of the available RPM range.  The 110 cu in does stop making power quite early in the RPM range.  As one mechanic told me, "what the big deal about not making power before 2500 RPM, you shouldn't be wanting to make power down there unless you like to lug your bike."

Thirdly, with the comment about the O2 sensors being in "fight of their life".  I can't argue that, but clearly a cam change would push the O2 sensors out of range.  The Power Vision Pro AutoTune Kit (with wide band O2 sensors) would get the sensors back into nominal ranges...right?

I like my sound of my Rinehart Extreme Duals with 2.5 cores.  If my wife would permit, I'd put on Paul Yaffee 4.5 Monstas with 2.75 cores.

I sincerely appreciate the feedback and I am not trying be stubborn or disrespectful.

Thanks,

dnlpnd

p.s  I see S&S does make a "570: Designed for 88 to 96 CID engines with compression ratios between 9:1 and 10:1 this cam will provide a nice power increase across the entire power band. 3200-5700 rpm."  Am I correct in assuming everyone would recommend this cam for my 110, if I want to go with the S&S cam kit and premium lifters

Hope you didn't take my Turd comment literally, just trying to lend my experience to someone who was asking and in need.
I have dynoed a very large number of 2009-2015 CVO Touring models. Most were just simple stage I bolt on exhaust, dyno tune and out the door. About one out of five gets a bolt in cam. Point is, I have seen many dyno charts from these bikes and know what type of power they make stock and the increase obtainable  with a correct mix of parts installed. I also know what happens to the sweet spot when the wrong parts chosen. Your current cocktail of parts is not going to give you the rider, any sensation of acceleration when you twist the throttle. The sensation comes from torque not HP. The build you are proposing will make less average TQ than stock. In my business, when you twist the throttle and nothing happens, well that's a Turd.
Just trying to help, no disrespect intended whatsoever.

Steve@fullsac.com

[dnlpnd]

Okay, I concede that the S&S 585 cams on my 2014 110 CID engine with my pipes and stock compression are going too far.

The pipes and compression aren't changing, which leaves fours cams on the table for dialing it down a notch.

• Fueling 574
• GMR 577
• WT TC-24D (.575 lift)
• S&S 570

What do you think Mr. Fullsac?  Or anyone else?

Thanks,

dnlpnd

[Fullsac Performance]

Okay, I concede that the S&S 585 cams on my 2014 110 CID engine with my pipes and stock compression are going too far.

The pipes and compression aren't changing, which leaves fours cams on the table for dialing it down a notch.

• Fueling 574
• GMR 577
• WT TC-24D (.575 lift)
• S&S 570

What do you think Mr. Fullsac?  Or anyone else?

Thanks,

dnlpnd

With your current exhaust and stock compression, the stock 255 cams are going to be hard to beat for roll on power.


Steve@fullsac.com

[HD Street Performance]

 expect to loose a tiny bit bottom end compared to stock,

Think again the 110 goes flat quick when the wrong combination of parts is used. Take what Steve said to the bank and you will have a decent runner. If you have to change cams the pipe will start to have a major influence on low end power. Affrf compression will help a little but a 2 into 1 into 2 like the Fullxac and some smaller baffle mufflers would offer a lot more balance to the build. Now you can say
".. expect to loose a tiny bit bottom end compared to stock,"

[firefighter156]

You are getting some very good FREE advice from very talented and experienced individuals.  I think you are being a little hypersensitive regarding your hesitation to open up a motor with 3000 miles because "it will never be the same"  That is a true statement but in a positive not negative. It will never be the same. It will be better and maybe a lot better. If you are doing business with a competent shop (usually not the HD shop) you will have excellent results, with many worry free miles of fun ahead of you.

However, if you remain hesitant to take the heads off you can get very positive results with a cam change (the right cam) but MY experience has been, to have a really appreciable gain with no headwork the cams need to be coupled with a good exhaust, an after market tuner (not autotune) and a good Dyno tune to maximize your bikes potential.  IMHO if you're gonna do cams with no headwork, the pipe, tuner, lifters, and Dyno are imperative for maximum results. Add headwork and you REALLY get results. Just my .02

[dnlpnd]

Well, the last of the parts are ordered.

With the exception of the H-D oil pump o-ring on the camplate, here is the total parts list for my build.

Dynojet Power Vision - PV2
Dynojet Autotune Kit for Power Vision - AT120B
Screamin' Eagle Premium Tapered Quick-Install Adjustable Pushrods-18404-08
Feuling Reaper Chain-Driven 574C Cams 1009
Feuling Camshaft Chain Drive Installation Kit - Standard 2070
(reusing my 2014 Screamin Eagle Lifters with 3,000 miles on them)

Now, just need to find someone trustworthy to execute.  Perhaps, Hyperformance - Pleasant Hill, Iowa or Mcvay Custom Motorcylces - Cedar Falls, IA, or open to suggestions.

Thanks for Everyone's Help & Have A Merry Christmas,

dnlpnd