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[dnlpnd]

I was talking to the top engine mechanic at my local dealer's Christmas open house today.  I shared with him that my '14 110 cu in runs decent with the Rinehart Extreme Duals (w/oversized baffle tubes) and a Dyno-Jet Power Vision with Dyno-Jet's base Power Vision map for a '14 110 cu in with air cleaner and dual exhaust, but it is far from an awe inspiring bagger.

I also went on to say that it has been my experience an engine is never the same once you crack it open and I cannot bring myself to tear apart engine with ~3000 miles to do engine mods.  I think I used the phrase, "It makes my butt pucker just thinking about it."

This mechanic said the least invasive way to wake up the '14 110 cu in is with an air cleaner, high flow duals, and re-mappped ECM is to change the camshafts.  He printed off a couple of dyno maps from some older bikes, where he just did air cleaner, pipes, and a 274 cam that shows some impressive HP gains.  He is proposing loosening the push rod tubes, cutting the stock push rods out, and removing the cam cover in order to not open the rocker boxes or remove the tank.  He says the stock valve springs are compatible with the Fueling 574 lift cams he is proposing.  Then go back in with two-piece adjustable push rods, in order to leave the top-end alone.

I have lots of questions in no particular order.  Is a 574 lift cam a good choice for my application?  Is Fueling a decent brand cam?  How does one cut push rods out without getting metal into the engine?  Will this upgrade make a noticeable difference?  Will the Dyno-Jet Power Vision be able to auto-tune such a configuration (with stock O2 sensors).  Can I expect the same reliability and longevity of a stock/untouched engine?  Will the stock springs and rockers be okay with a 274 lift cam?  Should a different lift cam be considered?  Are two-piece adjustable push rods just as robust as one-piece push rods?  In other words, can the adjustable push rods come loose and change in length?  Are there any other things to consider for cam change on a 2014 110 cu in?

I would really appreciate this forum's input on such an upgrade

Thank You in Advance,

dnlpnd

[Ridgerunr]

Nothing wrong with a Fueling 574, Kury 24D is another good choice as is GMR577.
Pushrods get cut all the time, never a problem that I've heard of.
Reliability will be fine, change the lifters while your doing this work. S&S Premiums have a good record of service.
110" heads have more than enough valve spring to handle these cams. Stock rockers will be good.
I'm not a fan of auto-tunes. You spent 30 - 40 grand for a motorcycle, several grand for performance upgrades, don't cheap out on the tune.

[dnlpnd]

I guess I also should have asked...

If I am going to do this (without disturbing the rocker boxes), is a 574 lift cam going far enough without sacrificing overall engine longevity?

I expected everyone to be reluctant to trust Auto-Tune, but is there any harm in trying it first?  Then if this doesn't work, we can always old-school...right?

I really wish I knew for certain if the Power Vision required the wide-band O2 sensors for this kind of a change.  Obviously, the stock O2 sensors are fine for just duals and air cleaner.

Thanks Again,

dnlpnd

[HD Street Performance]

If I am going to do this (without disturbing the rocker boxes), is a 574 lift cam going far enough without sacrificing overall engine longevity?

Not a lift problem, but understand without added compression you will be taking a hit on torque VS the stock cams from idle to 2700 rpm roughly, which is enhanced by that pipe choice. The torque comes back and more higher up but the result is having to do a little more downshifting. All that said be sure to change the lifters to a premium part other than stock Harley lifters. You can PM me for details.

[twinotter]

 The pushrods are cut with a very large set of bolt cutters, leaving nothing in the engine, so no issues with debri.
 I'd suggest the GMR 577 or TD24, both work very well with stock heads and lift is not an issue.
I've run adjustable pushrods for 12 yrs, never had one come loose or cause any problems. I'd use Screamin Eagle tapered or S&S Quickie's.
I'd highly recommend changing out the stock lifters, S&S Premiums or Feuling. Enjoy the new power.
None of these mods should affect reliability, but you wil have a bike that works better!
I'd ride the bike with the PV tuning for awhile, then have it professionally tuned (not dealer) at a reputable dyno shop. People here can make recommendations based on your home town. Twinotter

[*58Vette]

Here Is A Previous Thread; Not Sure If They Posted The Graphs. 

http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=97226.0;all

[grc]

Don't get fixated on the lift (.574") of the cams, that isn't the most important characteristic and isn't all that much more than the stock cams at .556".  The real difference comes from the profile of the lobes and the timing of the valve open and close events.  Look at the shape of the curves on those dyno charts for a clue as to where each cam choice makes it's power (low rpm, mid-range, high rpm), how wide and smooth the curves are, and how that matches with the way you ride the bike. 

As for the pushrods, cutting them out with a pair of bolt cutters has been the norm for longer than I can remember.  It's not like sawing a piece of tubing with a hacksaw which would leave tons of fine particles; normally there are no tiny pieces but any smart tech would cover the area with a shop rag anyway.  Adjustable pushrods can be adjusted incorrectly, and yes the adjustment can come loose if the jam nut isn't tightened properly.  They also tend to be heavier than the one piece pushrods.  This hasn't stopped hundreds of thousands of them being used over the years.  In other words, if the guy doing the work is good, you shouldn't worry about using adjustable pushrods.

As for the Power Vision, you will need a base map that is very close to the configuration you're running.  Cams, pipes, etc..  Auto tune is a misnomer and a marketing buzzword, no matter which system you use.  The stock engine management system can also be called an auto tune system, since it adjusts based on input from the various engine sensors.  None of the systems can start out without a good base map and just automatically create a good map for you.  If you're serious about this stuff, find a good full time professional tuner.

In the overall scheme of possible modifications, I would classify your proposed changes as minor and highly unlikely to affect the reliability of the powertrain.  There are people on the site who are running that Fueling 574 cam who can tell you about how much change from stock they experienced, as well as some of the other similar cams previously mentioned.  A simple bolt-in camshaft change isn't going to produce a huge difference.  Maybe you need to quantify exactly how much change you're looking for, and where in the power band, before making any decisions.

JMHO - Jerry

[dnlpnd]

Okay, here is the plan:

Screamin Eagle Tapered Adjustable Push Rod Kit (Part # 18404-08), JIM's POWERGLIDE STEADY ROLL TAPPETS, and S&S 585 cam.  Leaving the rocker boxes untouched with stock springs.

Anyone see any problems with this, before I move forward?  Also, are the stock 110 cu in lifters hydraulic or solid?

BTW, does anyone know part number for the best Jim's Powerglide lifters, there are several?

Thank Again,

dnlpnd

[sadunbar]

Okay, here is the plan:

Screamin Eagle Tapered Adjustable Push Rod Kit (Part # 18404-08), JIM's POWERGLIDE STEADY ROLL TAPPETS, and S&S 585 cam.  Leaving the rocker boxes untouched with stock springs.

Anyone see any problems with this, before I move forward?  Also, are the stock 110 cu in lifters hydraulic or solid?

BTW, does anyone know part number for the best Jim's Powerglide lifters, there are several?

Thank Again,

dnlpnd

Stock lifters are hydraulic.

I would recommend not using Jims lifters...  Sent you a pm...

[FlaHeatWave]

Okay, here is the plan:

Screamin Eagle Tapered Adjustable Push Rod Kit (Part # 18404-08), JIM's POWERGLIDE STEADY ROLL TAPPETS, and S&S 585 cam.  Leaving the rocker boxes untouched with stock springs.

Anyone see any problems with this, before I move forward?  Also, are the stock 110 cu in lifters hydraulic or solid?

BTW, does anyone know part number for the best Jim's Powerglide lifters, there are several?

Thank Again,

dnlpnd

When I asked about lifters (on 4 different Harley forums) S&S Premium was recommended over 10x more than any other lifter. Even my Tech at the Dealer tells me to stay away from Jims ( he's seen many early failures)

[Ridgerunr]

And another warning about Jims/SE lifters, cost me 5 grand to find out. Lots of documented failures.

[sadunbar]

And another warning about Jims/SE lifters, cost me 5 grand to find out. Lots of documented failures.

Some years ago Jims manufactured SE lifters, but Jims does not manufacture the current SE lifters.    That said, I personally would not use the current Jims lifters, or any other Jims lifters...

[willyB]

I went with GMR 577's, S&S Lifters and a real tune using TTS. Picked up roughly 10HP/10TQ and pushed the TQ curve out another 1000 rpm. Would have been a little better but I like the look and sound out of tru dual headers.

A "little" less torquey down low but nothing really to speak of. I like it now because I can run it out a little farther on each shift. The stock cam has a lot of low end grunt but if it will fall on its face past 4000 rpm. To me, the new cam set the bike like I like to ride.

Like someone mentioned before not increasing compression you'll miss out on what the new cam can bring to the table.

All in all I like this cam and when the money tree grows a little more I plan on increasing compression. But for now I'm good.

If you decide to add compression there are several builders here that really know what they're talking about.

[Ridgerunr]

Anyone know who makes  SE lifters now? If it's the same outfit that makes the stock lifters, no better. 

[mark]

Here's a YouTube video from J&P Cycle regarding the cutting of stock pushrods and the installation of adjustables.  Good tutorial that may answer some of your questions.