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[tmo465]

Well,,,mine is getting replaced as we speak, the trans lever that is.   I tightened it up before the last trip and 800 miles later, loose once again. No amount of cranking this time would tighten it up.

 My only thought was to have it installed with some lock tight 271. I had a bottle and gave it to the guy doing the work.  It is used to secure bearings in a bore.   I think that some of that stuff on the shaft, a new lever and a good tightening might cure the problem.  Once it starts to wear, you are pretty much forced to have it replaced. Headed for Sturgis next week and sure did not want to have that lever strip out in the middle of nowhere.

My brother has an 06 Ultra with 3500 miles.  I checked his the other day, same thing, loose.


Tom

[ggraves427]

You got my attention on this deal so I went out in the garage to check mine last night.  Did not appear to be loose.  I got the appropriate allen wrench and I could not budge it at all.  I have 20K on my bike.  If it breaks tomorrow it is your fault.  

[hd-dude]

The key to longevity on these arms is to check them often to see that they are tight. Once they get loose the splines in the aluminum arm wear and they will never stay tight after that. Make it part of your routine maintenance! 8-)

[cigarmike]

Jim, Did you make sure mine was tight before I left your house after working on it for 3 days???....oh thats right, I forgot to put the back one on. hehe

[mr_magoo]

I replace the allen with a bolt on my 04 and have had no more issue once changed.  More surface area on a bolt than an allen nd a little blue loctite.

[Unbalanced]

Mine was 19k when I had the problem on the Red Bike, since the primary had to come off I decided it was the best time to install a new shiny Chrome Inner Primary

Generally around 20k is when I have in the past to replace them.   Also when I generally install the chrome inner primary too .. coincidental   (saves me 4 to 5 hours of labor and its under warranty)

-harry

[3hawgs]

Yesterday, I was heading home from Sturgis thru Kansas City in construction traffic when suddenly I went to downshift and the shifter was laying on the floorboard!!! I was able to get the bike off on the exit ramp shoulder and found that the inner shift linkage arm had come off despite the fact that the bolt was still in the hole! The hole appeared to be egg shaped from vibration and I reinstalled the linkage and retightened the bolt. After 15 miles heading East toward St. Louis on I-70, the shifter again fell to the floorboard. I rode it this way 30 miles until I could roll off the freeway in high gear into a rest area. This time the bolt had fallen out. Needing to get home after my 3800 mile trip, I tried to find a bolt that I could "borrow" somewhere else on the bike. I tried using the top bolt off the primary but it was too long and put the linkage in a bind. So I took 2 tie wraps and put them together and tie wrapped the inner shift linkage to the holes thru the outer shifter arm to hold them together. This worked for the final 200 miles home.

Today, I cleaned and inspected the shifter shaft and inner shift arm. I installed a new bolt using RED loctite and tightened all the other linkage. It seems to feel better than ever. I would recommend that these bolts be checked every oil change even with RED loctite on them. I'll see how long this repair holds.

John

[Garznhogs]

The forum strikes again!
Checked mine after reading this. Front foot shift lever was loose, tried to tighten, but allen felt like it was tight.  Rear one is Walter's extended that I put on; it's steel, not aluminum.  I cranked a little on the allen and it tightened up fine.
Had to ride 100 miles with the front one loose, so I didn't toe-upshift at all (I do that regularly). When I got home again I rechecked the shift lever...still loose (why didn't it tighten itself? ). Put the wrench back in it and gave it a mighty twist.  Pop! The factory locktite broke loose and I was able to put about another 1/4 turn, making it good and tight.  Feels fine now.
The back arm... I don't think it's loose... didn't feel like it.
5500 miles.

Thanks for the great information!  (Checked wife's 04 RK... stock levers, all tight)
Garz

[ggraves427]

I am going to try the nut and bolt deal (chrome of course).   I purchased two nuts (self-locking) , four washers, and two bolts that have the head that requires an allen wrench. Since the shifter lever is threaded, should I (using lock tight) put the bolt in, tighten it up and then put the nut and washer on and tighten them?? Just want to make sure I am doing the perfect install.

[3hawgs]

You will not be able to put a longer bolt and/or nut on the inside end of the front inner shift arm. There is not enough room and it will bind the linkage making it impossible to shift. Use the RED loctite on that bolt and get it tight without snapping it off. Don't forget to tighten the acorn nuts and bolts holding the shift rod to the shift levers. Mine looked to be tight but weren't. Even a little looseness here will cause more vibration and shaking of the entire shift linkage mechanism causing problems. The strangest thing about my interstate incident was that when the front shifter arm fell off the bolt was still in the hole! Normally, the splined linkage won't come off unless the bolt is backed out all the way. The vibration and shaking with it loose, egg shaped the hole allowing it to fall off.

John

[Gordon]

Thanks for the heads up before I screwed up.  Which is stronger red or blue lock-tight?  Headed back to the garage to check the shifter linkage.  I need to retire, with this bike, I just don't have time to work anymore.

[DCFIREMANN]

Thanks for the heads up before I screwed up.

[3hawgs]

Red Loctite is stronger than the Blue. With all the vibration that linkage has to endure, I used the RED just to make sure. I used BLUE before and it still shook loose.

John

[05Rider]

 

[3hawgs]

Here is a pic of how I had to tie-wrap the linkage together after it fell apart the 2nd time on the way home from Sturgis.

John