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[Serkcus]

Having an enclosed trailer built. It's 7 X 12, with a V nose. I want to provide the builder with a floor plan so they can locate the tie down rings in the floor ( decided on no E track ) They will install a total of 8 flush mounted rings in the floor to my specs, as if I knew what I was doing.    My initial thought (2 bikes) is to place two at each side wall, one in line with the front edge of the front tire with the other about the same placement in relation to the rear tires. Left set will be at approximately 12 ft from rear door, while the right side (wall) set of two will be two feet further back than the opposite side. I think that this will work, but I have no good idea where to place the 4 centerline tie downs., essentially how for apart.? Hopefully, someone here has some valuable insight.

[rednectum]

mark floorplan on garage floor with chalk. place bikes and draw where chocks  and d-rings should go. remove bikes and take measurments.

[NukeIT]

mark floorplan on garage floor with chalk. place bikes and draw where chocks  and d-rings should go. remove bikes and take measurments.

I would do something similar. make sure to visual the lines that the tie-downs will follow so that they don't interfere with anything on either motorcycle....

[miker]

Don't forget to stagger each set of tie down points inside the trailer for extra room.

[LRebel]

I would absolutely $pend a few dollars more and add a WheelDock (or something comparable) for each bike.

http://wheeldock.com/

[miker]

I used the bike pros...They have been great so far.

http://www.rampconnection.com/page21.shtml

[resqdoc]

Completely agree with the above advice for a Wheel Dock, they recommend you place tie downs at the rear of the bike with the straps pulling forward slightly. This system has worked very well for me.

Best chock available period. It is also quick to remove and use when cleaning the bike, storing in the garage, etc.

A friend from Canada showed me a trick to place a D-ring directly behind the bike(s) rear tire. A single tie down run from the D-ring through the rear wheel and back to the tie-down, keeps the bike from moving side to side while the Wheel Dock keeps it upright and secure.

With one bike in the trailer I use the rings on the walls and two straps on the rear of the bike. With two bikes, I switch to the D-rings directly behind the bike tires (2' back, in the floor). This eliminates interference side to side with the other bike.

[porthole]

I want to provide the builder with a floor plan so they can locate the tie down rings in the floor ( decided on no E track )

I would have the builder put the flush mounts in a bag and you decide after it is in your driveway.

Two (of many) things I did to my trailer after I got it.

1st, removed the recessed floor chocks and filled in the holes. I replaced the two recessed mounts with 3 Bike Pro floor plates (1 bike in the middle or 2 bikes staggered).

2nd, removed all the flush mount d-rings and installed aluminum aircraft track.


Your best bet would be to have two dressers available when you get the trailer. If you have two bike pro style chocks at the same time that would help.

Any of the ride on step off style chocks will be the way to go, no juggling with the bikes on a side stand.

[porthole]

I just looked at the "Wheel Dock", similar to the Condor.

My preference was for the Bike Pro. Usually can get the chrome version with a plate for $150 or a little less on Ebay.I just like the Bike Pro more. Mackie Enterprises is the distributor I have used.
www.mackieenterprises.com, 888-411-7267 New Jersey

His stuff costs more at the shows then he sells it on eBay for.

I bought all my aluminum track and hardware from another guy that frequents the shows and is cheaper then Mackie. Plus he supplies the track with all the bolt down hardware.

I'll see if I can dig up his name.

Motorcycle Securing Systems. 800-750-0474, New Jersey, no web site.

This guy is a machinist and works out of garage, literally, I went there to pick up some 12' tracks.

Both of these outfits carry straps, loops, and assorted tie down hardware. Call and get their catalogs

[Talon]

Make sure the tiedown D-rings are tied into something more than the flooring, either a big plate under the flooring, or somehow connected to the metal frame. The might work ok for a while, but  if not properly tied into something, as the flooring gets old they could rip out!

[porthole]

Make sure the tiedown D-rings are tied into something more than the flooring, either a big plate under the flooring, or somehow connected to the metal frame. The might work ok for a while, but  if not properly tied into something, as the flooring gets old they could rip out!

The better trailer guys only though bolt them in the cross members. If not you need to use the backing plates that are matched to the flush mounts.

Personally, I would only through bolt through the frame, forget the wood like Talon mentions.

[porthole]

Don't forget to stagger each set of tie down points inside the trailer for extra room.

This is a must if you ever plan to have two dressers in the box.

[Trapperdog]

We put 2 dressers in our toy hauler and fully agree with all the above. Make sure you plan, measure and triple check your placement of wheel docking system angle to the front D rings, especially if you have lowers as there can be little room to play with. Even with the bikes staggered, the 7 x 12 will get awfully small with the bikes in there and you may have to remove a saddle bag just to go front to back inside the trailer. Make sure you have plenty of tie downs and extra straps. You will find yourself getting very creative with them.

[porthole]

This is what my trailer looked like when I got it.

The recessed chocks are nice but it means you have to use a kickstand if you are by yourself.
With a lowered bike you have to lean the bike way over to the right to get the kickstand up, and since my trailer is only 6.5' wide that doesn't leave a lot of room. The bike almost will not sit upright in a recessed chock (lowered bike).

BTW 6.5' is the minimum for two dressers, 7' is just a little better.

The reason everyone is suggesting you place your items carefully is that it will be tight in the trailer. May as well drill all your holes once.

[Serkcus]

Thanks for all the replies, some great info here.  I'll muck (mock) up the garage floor this weekend as suggested.  Biggest problem is that the Serk is still chillin in the dealers shop waiting road test after the gasket changes.  Have to rely on moving the Sporty around so it can pretend to be both and just add some dimension to it. 

[Grizzly]

You get what you pay for... And you paid a lot for your CVO, so why not buy the best chock available to secure your bike?

I've just spent a great deal of time researching which chock is best for two deckers in my 8'x12' trailer - went 8' and glad I did for extra room with 2 big bikes to load.

I ended up buying 2 Condors, brought them home to try them out and they seemed great.  That was until I tried to back them out of the chock.  Pretty heavy bikes to manually pull out by yourself when you're only 5'8" tall, even with both bikes having the H-D front and rear lowering kits on them!

Checking out this site for a centre stand to use for saving storage space in the garage, one fine member on this site directed me to Wheeldock for their center stand.  Well I'll be damned if I didn't find an amazing wheel chock on their site to solve my problem, and I wasn't even looking for it at that point.  I watched their video, was thoroughly impressed with how the front wheel stays on level ground entering and exiting the chock with no lifting as the gas shock does the work for you, which means only 1 person is required to load, strap down, unstrap and unload the bikes.  Furthermore, they are less expensive than the Condor product!  I then spoke to the owner of Wheeldock at length about my different concerns I thought I may have using his product and he was super with me answering all my concerns.  Now I'm waiting for delivery for my two newest chocks which were sent to me yesterday.

Fortunately I had a friend looking for two new chocks and had been wanting Condors (and nothing else) for quite sometime, and for whatever reason I couldn't convince him to buy the best, so they are now sold.

Although as of yet, I have not personally used my new Wheeldock chocks, I feel confident that I made the right decision to go with this brand of chock.

Good luck with outfitting your new trailer.

By the way, thanks "resqdoc" for sharing the great tip on securing the rear wheel.  So simple and should work great on my next trip.  Our last trip out even though the bikes were ties down in four points, the wife's bike jiggled over and rubbed against the side of the trailer for who knows how many miles, scratching it a bit... Thankfully no damage to the saddlebag rail though.

Take care,
Grizzly

[old wrench]

mark floorplan on garage floor with chalk. place bikes and draw where chocks  and d-rings should go. remove bikes and take measurments.

I wish I had a dollar for everytime I have layed something out on the shop floor and built off it 

I use the wide Pingle wheel chocks, you can build a insert for the narrow tires if needed or you can install 2 sets of mounts for each one to have a wide or narrow chock, they also slip into there mounts and can be remove if you want to use the trailer to haul something else.

Locating the bikes was done after the trailer was nearly finished so we could set them to achive 175 to 225 pounds of tongue weight makes for a better pulling trailer. The D rings can be located with the bikes in it and you can build the back plates to tie into your frame, its a little more work but it just like you want it.

On a inclosed you cant see the bikes one get loose and falls over againist the other and damn you have a high dollar mess, I installed a backup camera and remote light in the trailer, so you can take a look see anytime you want with out pulling over.

I used the torsion axles (no springs) you can build a lower trailer for less ramp angle, I also go with the hyd. tongue and brakes, no electric brake control to mess with and they seem to work smoother. You can put drop jacks on the back and a brake lock on the tongue to load or unload the bikes with out hooking up to the trailer. You can build a locking device to lock the brakes down so some nice person wont drag the trailer off when you not looking 

[porthole]

A single tie down run from the D-ring through the rear wheel and back to the tie-down, keeps the bike from moving side to side while the Wheel Dock keeps it upright and secure.

Does this mean you are not using any straps in the front?

Even though my Bike Pro chocks hold the bike securely I would never travel without two straps going up to the front end someplace.
Too much lateral load without the "triangular" support.

[porthole]

My tie down specs.

6.6 x 12 with a 3' V nose.

6.6 IS the minimum for 2 dressers, and it is tight, but doable.

As I said before, I set it up to move the chocks from the sides - staggered (2 bikes) to the center (1 bike).
It really does pay to have chocks like the Bike Pro or Condor style. Drive in, step off, walk away.

I had mounted the floor plates before I did the Wild One bars. As a result the bikes are a little close to the sides, so I have compensate for that with the straps, and turn the mirrors up.

[porthole]

I use one strap around the tire on the wheel chock itself. This keeps the bike from dancing around. But I always add straps up high. There would be too much stress on the wheel and chock if you did not use straps.

[porthole]

The wheel strap is what holds the bike down. The other two just steady it. This way the forks are not compressed allowing the bike to ride in the trailer on it's suspension.

[porthole]

If I was towing for a short distance I would use just one center strap, pulling on the rear wheel

[porthole]

Longer tows would get the "3-point" tie down in the rear. And if I was towing for a real long distance I usually double up all the straps.

Keep in mind, the nylon straps will stretch after a short period of time. You want to tighten them up a bit after a short travel.

[porthole]

It is a little snug in the front, and the high mounted spare tire tuned out to be in the way driving the bike in.

Had the dealer told me about the option of recessing the spare tire in the floor I would have done that.

[porthole]

This extra strap keeps the left side of the bike away from the wall.

[porthole]

.

[porthole]

Composite picture of the bike in the two different chocks

[porthole]

I have 12' pieces ALT & ALTB down the sides and center. And 3 shorter pieces in the "V". An assortment of straps and ALT rings as well as a couple dozen nylon loops, hanging in the front and back of the trailer.

E-Track on the wall  is not really for the bikes. Puts an undue stress on the sidewalls.

[porthole]

The trailer was "Rhinolined" to seal the entire bottom. Able to just hose it out for cleanup.

[porthole]

12 volt winch with a cord that extends out past the tailgate. And I had to use this once already, when I bent a valve.

[sadunbar]

The trailer was "Rhinolined" to seal the entire bottom. Able to just hose it out for cleanup.

That is an excellent feature...  I have done the same thing in the past.  Makes keeping things clean a much easier task...

[porthole]

I split the beaver tail as I wanted the ALT to go all the way to the rear, so it would be through bolted into the frame.

I also moved the beaver tail rearward. In its original position it could have an interference issue with the center or right side bike.

And it has actually caused damage to another members 05 SEEG. (small dent in the rear fender) when we were driving through those chitty roads (I95) in New York.

Moving them back allows the flaps to lay on the floor when the door is closed. Before they would bounce between the rear door and the tailpipes on the bike.

Until you hit that big bump and the bike bounces up a little bit and comes down on the flap 

[porthole]

That is an excellent feature...  I have done the same thing in the past.  Makes keeping things clean a much easier task...

It is nice and it adds some traction, especially when rolling the bike out of the trailer.

But, it ain't cheap 

[resqdoc]

Does this mean you are not using any straps in the front?

Even though my Bike Pro chocks hold the bike securely I would never travel without two straps going up to the front end someplace.
Too much lateral load without the "triangular" support.

Yes, The Wheeldock is sized to snuggly fit your front tire. No wobble or side to side rock. Much more rigid and higher reaching than a pingle.

A single tie down goes through the bottom/front edge of the front wheel (Wheeldock frame through front rim to other side of Wheeldock frame) to absolutely secure the bike from moving backward.

It might be easier to picture by going to their website and viewing the short videos or here is the owner's manual http://www.wheeldock.com/pdf/Wheeldock_Manual.pdf

A major benefit of this system is it allows the suspension to flex as you go down the road (ever ride inside a trailer going down the road?) Extra strapping and "triangular support" defeats the purpose.

I've towed many ways, many miles. This is the most effective system I've seen; it also happens to be much less complicated and easier to use.

[porthole]

Much more rigid and higher reaching than a pingle.

Same with the Bike Pro. I don't care for the Pingle, too small.

A single tie down goes through the bottom/front edge of the front wheel

I'm doing the same except I am going over the tire.

A major benefit of this system is it allows the suspension to flex as you go down the road) Extra strapping and "triangular support" defeats the purpose.

Same with the way I do it. I use the extra straps to stop the side to side movement.
BTW, the Wheel Dock instructions and the video specify straps up high to steady the bike.

ever ride inside a trailer going down the  road

The main reason I got the torsion axles, and two of them at that.

Without straps mounted up high there would be undue stress on the lower third of the wheel, I don't care whose chock you use. I just wouldn't trust the wheel not to get bent or the chock to fail.

[resqdoc]

Porthole, excellent points. From the pictures of your set-up you too have developed a secure system (through some of the same trial and error I've experienced no doubt).

Basically, we agree on trailer lay out and securing the bikes. However, the rear straps in the wheel dock video do stop the bike from wobbling side to side, as well as "tail wagging."

In your final pictures you do an excellent job of showing how secure your set-up is. You do mention doubling the straps for really long trips.....that's 12 straps per bike. I'm using 3 and holding fast on some really rough Southwest roads.

The important thing is paying attention to the underlying concepts we are both speaking to. 

[porthole]

Basically, we agree on trailer lay out and securing the bikes. However, the rear straps in the wheel dock video do stop the bike from wobbling side to side, as well as "tail wagging."

You didn't mention you were using the rear straps. The way you presented it it appeared you were using only the the front "through the wheel" strap.

I don't care for the way they just go over the seat in the video and prefer to grab either the rear bar (behind the seat) or the saddlebag guards, with 2 instead of one tie down.

In your final pictures you do an excellent job of showing how secure your set-up is. You do mention doubling the straps for really long trips.....that's 12 straps per bike.

I guess I should have been a little clearer on that I might double up some of them not all. And that is only because I have a sufficient number of loops and straps

In your final pictures you do an excellent job of showing how secure your set-up is. You do mention doubling the straps for really long trips.....that's 12 straps per bike. I'm using 3 and holding fast on some really rough Southwest roads.

I haven't tried just using rear straps instead of the front and rear. Have to give it a whirl next time.

I use a minimum of 4, one over the front wheel, 2 from the upper forks (not compressing the forks though) and one around the rear wheel. Actually, with the trailer Rhinolined and the rear wheel strap snugged down the bike doesn't dance at all.

My thoughts about adding a few extra for long rides is piece of mind and any 2nd strap is not made as tight as the primary, sort of a backup.

Judging for your screen name you already know "chit happens". You just never know.

That last picture you are talking about I did not remove the wheel strap after putting the two upper  straps on.
But I have come to feel having a strap around the rear wheel pulling rearward can't hurt.

[old wrench]

  Nice trailer Port, seems like those trailer are just like the bikes you have to add to them even if you had them built or built them the way you wanted it, there is always something else you find out you need or need to change. Is that a fire extingusher by the door hehehe are you a fireman, just funnin ya. Then spare tire inside ooohhhh ya, the winch for the dead ones, rhino lined that stuff is sweet, they are just like the bikes a guy can just keep addiing to them. Looks good dude 

Tell me one thing how many friends did you have pop out of the wood works when they found out you had a trailer 

[porthole]

Nice trailer Port, seems like those trailer are just like the bikes you have to add to them even if you had them built or built them the way you wanted it, there is always something else you find out you need or need to change.

If I do it again it will be a lot different, and I didn't think of a few things while I was having it built.

Is that a fire extinguisher by the door hehehe are you a fireman,

Yes it is and yes I am.
I only put it there though because I needed one on my little boat, and a two-pack was cheaper then
one 

Then spare tire inside ooohhhh ya,
the winch for the dead ones,
rhino lined that stuff is sweet,
they are just like the bikes a guy can just keep adding to them.

Spare tire actually turned out to be in the way, wish I had put it in the floor.
The winch is good
Rhino is good and expensive
Did you look close to the front of the trailer?
Battery charger 1800 watt inverter, 110 circuits, and more coming. Maybe air and awning this spring.

Tell me one thing how many friends did you have pop out of the wood works when they found out you had a trailer 

Actually only one, and it was my offer.

And when Howie broke down in my neck of the woods he didn't know I had the trailer

[old wrench]

Did you look close to the front of the trailer?
Battery charger 1800 watt inverter, 110 circuits, and more coming. Maybe air and awning this spring.


Actually only one, and it was my offer.

And when Howie broke down in my neck of the woods he didn't know I had a the trailer

I had one that we gened with air and a roll out awning, put fold down bunk beds in it. You could park the bikes under the awning at night and stay in the trailer, catch a camp ground with a shower. But my wifes ideal of roughin it is a black and white TV in the motel room.

[porthole]

I'd prefer a regular toy hauler, but in a pinch I could make do.

[markt]

Port:

Thanks for sharing your insights on the trailer.  In your photo, I saw the inverter, winch, fire extinguisher, storage for unused straps, and tracks as well as the modified beavertail.  What else is on your front wall?

And if you were building a new trailer, what would you do different on your next trailer??

...mark

[porthole]

Thanks for sharing your insights on the trailer.  In your photo, I saw the inverter, winch, fire extinguisher, storage for unused straps, and tracks as well as the modified beavertail.  What else is on your front wall?

I use this trailer as a small mobile office for my part time work too. Also a Dive support trailer if needed.
•   Marine 30 amp bulkhead connector.
•   The horizontal piece of aluminum angle on the right front is for a small table / desk
•   Marine VHF
•   Battery (C-cell) powered LED light next to door for when the main battery in switched off.
•   Battery selector switch. Three is a deep cycle battery, forget the size but it is larger then a group 27 and smaller then a 4D.
•   2/0 battery cables for batteries and inverter.
•   There is also 2/0 cables running from the switch to the front of the trailer with a connector that matches my truck, which has a 2/0 cable all the way to the battery.
•   There is a small rack next to the door to hold a SCUBA tank
•   12 volt cigar lighter outlets for phone chargers and as well as a charging station for marine VHF portables
•   I also put an electric jack on the front
•   Around the entire perimeter at the roof line is 110 rope light, good for general lighting but still need a task light (1 DC and 1AC fluorescent light)
•   Ever see those telescoping flag poles? There is a vertical mount on the front of the trailer for a flag pole.
•   There is also a flat panel heater mounted on the front wall.

I will be redoing all the electric stuff in the front. I am in the process of making a panel that will fit right in the forward V for all the breakers and misc stuff (DC & AC)
The marine battery charger really doesn’t cut it for what we do so I have a new RV style converter charge in the garage waiting to go in.
I use the inverter for “clean power” to use with a computer etc, so the 10 amp marine charger was not able to keep up with the demand. Some of the lights are 12 volt and some are 110.
There is also a Honda 3000is generator in the shed when needed.

And if you were building a new trailer, what would you do different on your next trailer??
 

This trailer is a “low profile” motorcycle trailer. Most of the trailers I looked at were available in a “low pro”. The advantage to the low-pro is obvious, they are lower. But most of them use torsion drop axles. That is good. Overall lower entry height and the better ride of the torsion axles. But, all the low-pros are only 5’6” inside.
Thule was the only manufacturer that offered to do an increase in height. Mine is a low-pro with an extra 6”. Even 6’ when you are using the trailer for other things ends up being a little low.
So:
•   14’ with a V instead of 12
•   Minimum of 7’ wide maybe even the full 8’ I don’t keep this in my garage.
•   6’6” interior height with a 6’ door (leaves room for an awning)
•   Still use a lowered platform if available
•   Stay with the all aluminum construction
•   Spare tire in the floor
•   Pre spec the wiring (outlets etc)
•   Recessed side lighting
•   Reinforced boxed frame in the roof for eventual AC installation
•   Stay with the “no rivet” sides
•   I thought about having the ALT recessed in the floor, but I really like the Rhinoliner.
•   There are other things but the next time I won’t be looking to have the trailer delivered in 6-8 weeks so I can give it more time to lay everything out.

[RJ749]

Duane, thanks for all the detail and the pics of the trailer.  Setting up my 8 X 24 for 6 bikes if they fit.  4 baggers and 2 DWG's.

Might have to buy a new 8 X 28 if they don't.  I'm about due for a new trailer anyway, my current Featherlite is looking a bit worse for wear with over 100k on it and a few dents and dings from the hired help cutting corners etc.

Just not sure I want the extra 4'.

Anyway, thanks again for the pics.

[porthole]

Setting up my 8 X 24 for 6 bikes if they fit.  4 baggers and 2 DWG's.

Might have to buy a new 8 X 28 if they don't.  I'm about due for a new trailer anyway, my current Featherlite is looking a bit worse for wear with over 100k on it and a few dents and dings from the hired help cutting corners etc.

Just not sure I want the extra 4'.

If you just use it for bikes you can get away with a lot fewer extras.

If you are going to set it up for 6, why not all dressers? My thoughts on my mine were originally for a dresser and something else. If I had thought 2 dressers from the beginning it would have been wider.

I'm guessing that 6 baggers in 24 feet might start to push the limit, but since yours is 8' wide couldn't you stagger them a bit?

Not the normal stagger but like this?

|      |
  |  |
|      |

A 28' is about 32' long, starts to make for a lot of trailer.

Although - if you have it built to order you could put a head and holding tank in, maybe a genset and some ...........................

Of course, everything is still dependent on your tow vehicle. I can pull a lot with mine, but I can't pull the 5th wheel I would like, and I like my truck, so the trailer will match the truck.

[RJ749]

I'm running the '05 Dodge one ton crew Cummins.

It'll do the job without issue.  The 6 baggers are just too much for 24'.  I got 6 SC2000 Condors and we are setting the bikes in the trailer this week.

I own two baggers and a DWG so we have the layout.  I am hauling two DWG's three ultras and a FatBoy to Sedona.

Thus the layout.

Not sure of what will work but I think it will end ip in some variation of a stagger like this"

     l
  l      l
  l      l
     l

We just need to get them in it and see.  I think with the eight feet and some stagger we can do it.  Tight but doable.

The 24 is plenty of trailer for the dealership use with cars and the 28 would be a load I don't need.  I back down a driveway at home that has a good turn in it that I make with the 24 and doubt I could make with the 28.

[porthole]

I'm on a cul-d-sac the a conventional with a 55' trailer could do a u-turn in, so that is no problem.
But, I'm on a little bit of an incline and at the street level the grade reverses. So even my bike trailer scrapes (hitch) pulling out.

With my camper (29' TT) the back end will hit if I have the weight distributing bars hooked up.

One of the reasons I like the Bike Pro chocks is that you can get extra plates and mount them wherever you need. An when the chocks are out the plates are not in the way.

How about the Condors, same flexibility?

[RJ749]

I'm on a cul-d-sac the a conventional with a 55' trailer could do a u-turn in, so that is no problem.
But, I'm on a little bit of an incline and at the street level the grade reverses. So even my bike trailer scrapes (hitch) pulling out.

With my camper (29' TT) the back end will hit if I have the weight distributing bars hooked up.

One of the reasons I like the Bike Pro chocks is that you can get extra plates and mount them wherever you need. An when the chocks are out the plates are not in the way.

How about the Condors, same flexibility?

I have the e-track optional mounts so flexibility should be good, we'll know this week.

[markt]

Duane:

Thanks for the front panel debrief -- and your forward looking thoughts. 

Very interesting.

...mark

[RJ749]

Mocking up the 6 bike layout this afternoon for awhile.

[RJ749]

Looking like we can do six bikes one way or another.

Six SC 2000's and away we go

[RJ749]

OK, so we went for e-track for tie downs as well as some d ring ones strategically placed.

Also, doing all new bearings for the Sedona trip.  I figure the trailer has 100k on it and may as well go with new bearings.

[RJ749]

So we did the 6 Condors and the track

(oh crap, post 9,000)

[RJ749]

It's going to work out great and not interfere with the normal car hauling use when the condors are removed.

[RJ749]

So we got the first run in to my house and all is well, now we just need to get to next week and away we go to Sedona

Thanks again to everyone and thanks to Duane for the pics and suggestions..............

[porthole]

So we got the first run in to my house and all is well, now we just need to get to next week and away we go to Sedona

Thanks again to everyone and thanks to Duane for the pics and suggestions..............

Roger,
I bouight several items from "justharris" on ebay, E Track straps, rings, short straps with rings etc.

http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQfrppZ50QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQrdZ0QQsassZjustharris

[Serkcus]

Duane, what made you decide to eliminate the floor mounter tie downs in favor of the track. My trailer has been delayed by high demand and will be started this week and I have time to make any mods to design over the next couple of days while their welding frame components.

[porthole]

Duane, what made you decide to eliminate the floor mounter tie downs in favor of the track. My trailer has been delayed by high demand and will be started this week and I have time to make any mods to design over the next couple of days while their welding frame components.

Flexability and "just because"

The trailer was set up for staggered when delivered. I use it single most of the time, so the bike goes in the center.

I also use the trailer for other things, have hauled a quad occasionally too.

I really wish I had recessed the spare tire. Don't like it outside and don't like it where "I spec'ed" it.