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Author Topic: Tiedown Specs  (Read 11025 times)

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Grizzly

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #15 on: March 29, 2008, 01:35:05 AM »

You get what you pay for... And you paid a lot for your CVO, so why not buy the best chock available to secure your bike?

I've just spent a great deal of time researching which chock is best for two deckers in my 8'x12' trailer - went 8' and glad I did for extra room with 2 big bikes to load.

I ended up buying 2 Condors, brought them home to try them out and they seemed great.  That was until I tried to back them out of the chock.  Pretty heavy bikes to manually pull out by yourself when you're only 5'8" tall, even with both bikes having the H-D front and rear lowering kits on them!

Checking out this site for a centre stand to use for saving storage space in the garage, one fine member on this site directed me to Wheeldock for their center stand.  Well I'll be damned if I didn't find an amazing wheel chock on their site to solve my problem, and I wasn't even looking for it at that point.  I watched their video, was thoroughly impressed with how the front wheel stays on level ground entering and exiting the chock with no lifting as the gas shock does the work for you, which means only 1 person is required to load, strap down, unstrap and unload the bikes.  Furthermore, they are less expensive than the Condor product!  I then spoke to the owner of Wheeldock at length about my different concerns I thought I may have using his product and he was super with me answering all my concerns.  Now I'm waiting for delivery for my two newest chocks which were sent to me yesterday.

Fortunately I had a friend looking for two new chocks and had been wanting Condors (and nothing else) for quite sometime, and for whatever reason I couldn't convince him to buy the best, so they are now sold.

Although as of yet, I have not personally used my new Wheeldock chocks, I feel confident that I made the right decision to go with this brand of chock.

Good luck with outfitting your new trailer.

By the way, thanks "resqdoc" for sharing the great tip on securing the rear wheel.  So simple and should work great on my next trip.  Our last trip out even though the bikes were ties down in four points, the wife's bike jiggled over and rubbed against the side of the trailer for who knows how many miles, scratching it a bit... Thankfully no damage to the saddlebag rail though.

Take care,
Grizzly
« Last Edit: March 29, 2008, 07:28:54 AM by Grizzly »
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old wrench

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #16 on: March 29, 2008, 07:43:38 AM »

mark floorplan on garage floor with chalk. place bikes and draw where chocks  and d-rings should go. remove bikes and take measurments.
I wish I had a dollar for everytime I have layed something out on the shop floor and built off it  :2vrolijk_21:

I use the wide Pingle wheel chocks, you can build a insert for the narrow tires if needed or you can install 2 sets of mounts for each one to have a wide or narrow chock, they also slip into there mounts and can be remove if you want to use the trailer to haul something else.

Locating the bikes was done after the trailer was nearly finished so we could set them to achive 175 to 225 pounds of tongue weight makes for a better pulling trailer. The D rings can be located with the bikes in it and you can build the back plates to tie into your frame, its a little more work but it just like you want it.

On a inclosed you cant see the bikes one get loose and falls over againist the other and damn you have a high dollar mess, I installed a backup camera and remote light in the trailer, so you can take a look see anytime you want with out pulling over.

I used the torsion axles (no springs) you can build a lower trailer for less ramp angle, I also go with the hyd. tongue and brakes, no electric brake control to mess with and they seem to work smoother. You can put drop jacks on the back and a brake lock on the tongue to load or unload the bikes with out hooking up to the trailer. You can build a locking device to lock the brakes down so some nice person wont drag the trailer off when you not looking  :)
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porthole

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Re: Tie down Specs
« Reply #17 on: March 29, 2008, 10:00:14 AM »

A single tie down run from the D-ring through the rear wheel and back to the tie-down, keeps the bike from moving side to side while the Wheel Dock keeps it upright and secure.


Does this mean you are not using any straps in the front?

Even though my Bike Pro chocks hold the bike securely I would never travel without two straps going up to the front end someplace.
Too much lateral load without the "triangular" support.
« Last Edit: March 29, 2008, 10:15:51 PM by porthole »
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porthole

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Re: Tie down Specs
« Reply #18 on: March 29, 2008, 10:08:17 PM »

My tie down specs.

6.6 x 12 with a 3' V nose.

6.6 IS the minimum for 2 dressers, and it is tight, but doable.

As I said before, I set it up to move the chocks from the sides - staggered (2 bikes) to the center (1 bike).
It really does pay to have chocks like the Bike Pro or Condor style. Drive in, step off, walk away.

I had mounted the floor plates before I did the Wild One bars. As a result the bikes are a little close to the sides, so I have compensate for that with the straps, and turn the mirrors up.

« Last Edit: March 29, 2008, 10:36:01 PM by porthole »
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porthole

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Re: Tie down Specs
« Reply #19 on: March 29, 2008, 10:10:34 PM »

I use one strap around the tire on the wheel chock itself. This keeps the bike from dancing around. But I always add straps up high. There would be too much stress on the wheel and chock if you did not use straps.
« Last Edit: March 29, 2008, 10:16:13 PM by porthole »
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porthole

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Re: Tie down Specs
« Reply #20 on: March 29, 2008, 10:11:57 PM »

The wheel strap is what holds the bike down. The other two just steady it. This way the forks are not compressed allowing the bike to ride in the trailer on it's suspension.
« Last Edit: March 29, 2008, 10:36:51 PM by porthole »
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porthole

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Re: Tie down Specs
« Reply #21 on: March 29, 2008, 10:13:02 PM »

If I was towing for a short distance I would use just one center strap, pulling on the rear wheel
« Last Edit: March 29, 2008, 10:16:43 PM by porthole »
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porthole

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Re: Tie down Specs
« Reply #22 on: March 29, 2008, 10:15:34 PM »

Longer tows would get the "3-point" tie down in the rear. And if I was towing for a real long distance I usually double up all the straps.

Keep in mind, the nylon straps will stretch after a short period of time. You want to tighten them up a bit after a short travel.
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porthole

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #23 on: March 29, 2008, 10:17:58 PM »

It is a little snug in the front, and the high mounted spare tire tuned out to be in the way driving the bike in.

Had the dealer told me about the option of recessing the spare tire in the floor I would have done that.
« Last Edit: March 29, 2008, 10:38:48 PM by porthole »
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porthole

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #24 on: March 29, 2008, 10:18:55 PM »

This extra strap keeps the left side of the bike away from the wall.
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porthole

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #25 on: March 29, 2008, 10:19:23 PM »

.
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porthole

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #26 on: March 29, 2008, 10:20:59 PM »

Composite picture of the bike in the two different chocks
« Last Edit: March 29, 2008, 10:39:27 PM by porthole »
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porthole

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #27 on: March 29, 2008, 10:24:58 PM »

I have 12' pieces ALT & ALTB down the sides and center. And 3 shorter pieces in the "V". An assortment of straps and ALT rings as well as a couple dozen nylon loops, hanging in the front and back of the trailer.

E-Track on the wall  is not really for the bikes. Puts an undue stress on the sidewalls.

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MV 2013

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You can't control the weather, only how you deal with it

porthole

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #28 on: March 29, 2008, 10:26:31 PM »

The trailer was "Rhinolined" to seal the entire bottom. Able to just hose it out for cleanup.
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1982 LowRider * 1974 XLCH * 1972 Adnoh
You can't control the weather, only how you deal with it

porthole

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Re: Tiedown Specs
« Reply #29 on: March 29, 2008, 10:27:45 PM »

12 volt winch with a cord that extends out past the tailgate. And I had to use this once already, when I bent a valve.
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MV 2013

1982 LowRider * 1974 XLCH * 1972 Adnoh
You can't control the weather, only how you deal with it
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