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[skreminegul07]

The original spec, and it's in my SERK3 Service Manual Supplement, is 0.0"-0.003". That was subsequently changed to 0.010". And now it was just documented in the '09 MY Tech Changes, that it was changed again to 0.013"! That's without any changes to the crank assembly that we know of. I'd sure be checking runout before I thought of going gear drive. And it's not just the 110's. That's all current TC's. If the runout's within their specs, and you're OK with 0.013" runout, then stay with the hydraulic tensioners.

Hoist!

From TT324 :

Flywheel Service Wear Limits:
Run-Out(crankshaft in the crankcase) 0.012 IN. 0.305 MM
Run-Out (crankshaft on a truing stand) 0.005 IN. 0.127 MM

It seems only early 2007 had this issue.  I heard that someone was using assembly lube on a press fit.

[doorman]

I do know that I'm not going with the gear driven cams. I felt like after reading up on the chain tensioners in the 110's were much improved and more reliable over the 103's.  (correct me if I'm wrong). I still need to go by the dealership and get a final estimate on the tear down, check the runout on a truing stand, and rebuild with my supplied parts..

Ok, If I run into a problem with the dreaded crank....Do I send the crank out to someone like Darkhorse to fix and do the timken bearing conversion?or buy a new S&S crank with the timken conversion.? I would think the S&S would be more in price, but at this point the price isn't the concern as for the reliability and mileage after the mod is done........i guess a man's worst fear after engine mod is the bottom end going off like a grenade.

sorry for so many questions, i feel we need to get my ducks in a row for this project and make sure if something does occur then we already have a plan and the $$$ in place to take care of it.

Joey

[Hoist!]

I do know that I'm not going with the gear driven cams. I felt like after reading up on the chain tensioners in the 110's were much improved and more reliable over the 103's.  (correct me if I'm wrong). I still need to go by the dealership and get a final estimate on the tear down, check the runout on a truing stand, and rebuild with my supplied parts..

Ok, If I run into a problem with the dreaded crank....Do I send the crank out to someone like Darkhorse to fix and do the timken bearing conversion?or buy a new S&S crank with the timken conversion.? I would think the S&S would be more in price, but at this point the price isn't the concern as for the reliability and mileage after the mod is done........i guess a man's worst fear after engine mod is the bottom end going off like a grenade.

sorry for so many questions, i feel we need to get my ducks in a row for this project and make sure if something does occur then we already have a plan and the $$$ in place to take care of it.

Joey

Joey, the hydraulic tensioners we're hearing are much more reliable than the old ones. I don't use them, so I have no first hand knowledge. Others here do though. You have no choice but to use them if you're runout is greater than .003, but less than .013. You won't be checking runout on a truing stand either. That's for flywheels already out of the motor. You can only check it on the bike unless you take the engine apart. If you do have a crank problem based on HD's specs, they'll probably get you a new engine. So getting them to do anything to your crank is remote. That'll probably be on your dime. Some guys go the Darkhorse route. Personally, I went with an S&S forged steel crank.

Frankly you should interview various engine builders, get their opinions based on the way you ride, and select one to do the work. HD ain't capable of building performance motors. A good builder will listen to you, and based on what you discuss, will put a package together to meet your needs. Good luck with the mods!

Hoist!

[doorman]

Hoist,

Thanks for you input. Cycle Rama is putting together a package type deal based on the questions he asked me and the mechanic from HD is doing the work.....He's about the best mechanic in this neck of the woods and be working on harleys for nearly 20 years.

Where did you get the S&S forged crank.......Did you mail order it?

Joey

[Hoist!]

Hoist,

Thanks for you input. Cycle Rama is putting together a package type deal based on the questions he asked me and the mechanic from HD is doing the work.....He's about the best mechanic in this neck of the woods and be working on harleys for nearly 20 years.

Where did you get the S&S forged crank.......Did you mail order it?

Joey

Wes designed my motor and got my top end parts for me. I'm very happy with the performance of it, but had a few snags too with them. I originally stayed with the chain drive. I first went the HD "put it together under w.....ty" route by a "veteran engine guy" HD tech and it turned into a disater. I came to my senses and paid a REAL engine builder to build my motor from the bottom up. He got the S&S crank for me (he's an S&S dealer) and did the Timken conversion. Then I had a 0 runout crank and had Wes make the same cams in gear drive for me. My engine guy supplied the S&S gear kit. Now I have a REAL 110 engine in the bike. This chit ain't rocket science, but it does require quality parts and attention to detail. Make sure you measure everything for proper clearance when you get it from the vendor. Anyone can make a mistake, so just don't go bolting the stuff in the motor without checking it all first. And have Wes dump them ACR's and machine MCR's into the heads instead.

Hoist!