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[JCZ]

Not at all Gary.  I had head work done to all my bikes for years and years.  But what my experience taught me is that when you start doing all the high end top end performance work it's great.........for awhile.  Then in short order, things start breaking, weeping, seeping or leaking.

The route that I and many others have taken this time is to increase performance (best bang for the buck) and still keep long distance, high mileage reliability.  And that's only because while I put the miles on pretty fast (25k in the first year of this 2010 SESG), I still haven't learned to ride to saintly.....or sanely.    Reliability has become the first priority and performance the second.

[Black Diamond]

Not at all Gary.  I had head work done to all my bikes for years and years.  But what my experience taught me is that when you start doing all the high end top end performance work it's great.........for awhile.  Then in short order, things start breaking, weeping, seeping or leaking.

The route that I and many others have taken this time is to increase performance (best bang for the buck) and still keep long distance, high mileage reliability.  And that's only because while I put the miles on pretty fast (25k in the first year of this 2010 SESG), I still haven't learned to ride to saintly.....or sanely.   Reliability has become the first priority and performance the second.

My mis-adventures with my SERK4 have lead me to look more this direction. I'm slowly learning the "best bang for the buck" matra. I've spoken with Herko in reference the CR 575 for the 110. His advice, just do the cams and leave the head gasket and the rest alone. At this point, I'm opting for just leave it alone.

Jim, I really like the results you and others have gotten with the Feuling 574 too!

JW

[pleezinme]

I haven't posted for awhile but I have the 2010 FLHXSE and I had Harley do all my work. I added the SE 266E pro twin cam P\N 25494-10 along with a lot of other stuff. New headers, 58MM throttle body, push rod kit, high flow injectors, heavy breather. My bike is way more powerful than the stock 110. The Dyno sheet shows 113 HP and 108 Ft -Lbs and it moves like too. Up considerably from the stock 80 HP and 95 Ft-Lbs. It made a huge difference. Just one persons upgrade. I have part numbers if you like. 

[Badger Mike]

It seems like there are lot's of different cam option available.  No one is talking about S&S, which is just up the road from me here in WI.  They speak very highly  of their gear driven option for reliability, simplicity and performance.  I know S&S is a great company, but this option is quite a bit more expensive and I haven't found anyone on this site talking about them.

[rheiner]

After speaking with Scott at Hillside, and Bob Woods, for my 2011 CVO SG, I ordered a Woods TW-555 cam from Hillside, and I'm putting in SE 10.5:1 compression pistons (22502-07), and SE Perfect Fit pushrods (18401-03)(+.30"), based upon base circle of 1.285" on the Woods 555 cam. I already have Fullsac x-pipe & baffles. I'll let you know the numbers I get out of her.

[Badger Mike]

That would be great, I think you're going way further than I am with the engine work, but it would still be great to see what you pull out of a dyno and compare it to what I get.

[springer09]

put fullsac stage 2 in my bike with head gaskets, 555 woods cams ,tts tuner ,head pipe, fullsac power cores thinking i was going to get lots of low end boy was i wrong not impressed with seat of the pants ride stock cam had more low end and yea by the way i also did the 30 tooth deal on the final drive would hate to see what this thing would be like without that not happy at alllllllllllllllllllllllll.

[easyrider9809]

put fullsac stage 2 in my bike with head gaskets, 555 woods cams ,tts tuner ,head pipe, fullsac power cores thinking i was going to get lots of low end boy was i wrong not impressed with seat of the pants ride stock cam had more low end and yea by the way i also did the 30 tooth deal on the final drive would hate to see what this thing would be like without that not happy at alllllllllllllllllllllllll.

You might want to consider dyno tuning your bike with an experienced tuner.........that could be the difference maker in making your bike perform.

[harris48cars]

Not at all Gary.  I had head work done to all my bikes for years and years.  But what my experience taught me is that when you start doing all the high end top end performance work it's great.........for awhile.  Then in short order, things start breaking, weeping, seeping or leaking.

If we're talking .600 lift cams, 11 to 1 CR, raced ported heads and a heavy throttle hand then we agree completely regarding longevity. However there are plenty of sensible builds that will last just as long as a stock engine. We probably agree on that also. I'm thinking some don't do head work because of the expense but great headwork can come at an affordable price. For me heads and cams just go together. Kind of like peanut butter AND jelly, apple pie AND ice cream, hot dogs AND mustard, Abbott AND Costello. You know what I mean. Cams are used to open the valves further and hold them open longer to get more air and fuel in the cylinder. Head work can only enhance that process. Yes, if it costs an arm and leg then it can become a trade off. But with good company's providing excellent head work for under $500, why not. I just got back my second set of heads from BigBoyz who I use. I'm convinced there can be no further improvement on his heads as they relate to street performance. Looking at them some would think they are race heads. Put bigger vales in their heads and open the ports and you have race heads, the $1100 kind of heads. These are beautifully done. Price, $300. Thats affordable and your new cams would love them. I took some picture of these heads before taking them to the builder. If they come out okay I'll post them. Hope I don't sound argumentative.
 Gary