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[Schnobel]

Getting ready to upgrade the 110. Added a Fullsac header and 2.25 cores as posted about recently.

Next is to give the motor a little more umph!

Option A

Cam, mild headwork, new lifters, springs and rods. Leave the factory pistons and throttle body.
Cost in the $12-1500 range.
Expected numbers around 110hp with 125tq

Option B

Cam, more headwork, new lifters, springs, rods, 112 pistons, 58mm throttle body with larger injectors.
Cost $3500 range
Expected number around 125hp with 140tq

Custom map of course with both options.

Big total Dyno numbers are not my goal. Peak curve to the left side graff more important. Running a bagger at its limits top end isn't as fun to me as the feeling when I roll on the throttle around town. Let's face it, how often can you run your bike over a 100mph anyway? Durability and reliability important. Running on pump gas only.

For the extra $2k will my "ass dyno" really be able to feel the difference between the two options? Heck, just loosing the cat and adding the exhaust was an improvement.

My current numbers are 93hp and 104tq.

Suggestions as to either options as well as components for either case?

Thanks

[smkymtnboy]

option A based on your comments. low end torque is where the fun is for me.

[Jswerve]

I'm going to give you option C. If I were to do it all over again, I would do air cleaner, pipes, tuner, and then take it to a reputable tuner and have it tuned. Then I would ride it until the wheels feel off.

Either way best of luck with your decision.

[HD Street Performance]

Expected number around 125hp with 140tq

Won't happen without compression to the roof. The torque number.
The HP is easily done.

Here is one I just did in conjunction with a dealer. 110" 10.65:1 SE 259E cams Power Duals Rinehart mufflers
Air filter (CVO Stock) was culling 5hp minimum but the torque line is representative.
All HD parts except the head parts

My choice Option B changed to 113" wth a Mahle 10.5 piston and similar to above with a little different cam in the same duration class. Mild head work with beehive springs added. SE 58mm or HPI TB and your pipe choice

Goal 128hp 130TQ 110TQ by 2500 carrying all the way to 5250 with no less than 110TQ

[Schnobel]

Expected number around 125hp with 140tq

Won't happen without compression to the roof. The torque number.
The HP is easily done.

Here is one I just did in conjunction with a dealer. 110" 10.65:1 SE 259E cams Power Duals Rinehart mufflers
Air filter (CVO Stock) was culling 5hp minimum but the torque line is representative.
All HD parts except the head parts

My choice Option B changed to 113" wth a Mahle 10.5 piston and similar to above with a little different cam in the same duration class. Mild head work with beehive springs added. SE 58mm or HPI TB and your pipe choice

Goal 128hp 130TQ 110TQ by 2500 carrying all the way to 5250 with no less than 110TQ

What cam would you recommend? S&S lifters? Maybe my Tq numbers were a little high. I've seen several guys hit 130tq without the throttle body so figured would do 135+ with one.

[Schnobel]

I'm going to give you option C. If I were to do it all over again, I would do air cleaner, pipes, tuner, and then take it to a reputable tuner and have it tuned. Then I would ride it until the wheels feel off.

Either way best of luck with your decision.

LOL. Probably the smarter choice but who said being smart was as fun! 

[HOGMIKE]

Getting ready to upgrade the 110. Added a Fullsac header and 2.25 cores as posted about recently.

Next is to give the motor a little more umph!

Option A

Cam, mild headwork, new lifters, springs and rods. Leave the factory pistons and throttle body.
Cost in the $12-1500 range.
Expected numbers around 110hp with 125tq

Option B

Cam, more headwork, new lifters, springs, rods, 112 pistons, 58mm throttle body with larger injectors.
Cost $3500 range
Expected number around 125hp with 140tq

Custom map of course with both options.

Big total Dyno numbers are not my goal. Peak curve to the left side graff more important. Running a bagger at its limits top end isn't as fun to me as the feeling when I roll on the throttle around town. Let's face it, how often can you run your bike over a 100mph anyway? Durability and reliability important. Running on pump gas only.

For the extra $2k will my "ass dyno" really be able to feel the difference between the two options? Heck, just loosing the cat and adding the exhaust was an improvement.

My current numbers are 93hp and 104tq.

Suggestions as to either options as well as components for either case?

Thanks

Plan C would be my choice also, since you live in the Cities and only ride 4 months of the year and tear your bike down every winter.

Wait for it...............
 

[HOGMIKE]

Seriously, if you goal is to have a "cruiser" with little more guts, (900lbs is hard to get moving) I'd stick with mild cam (nothing wrong with the 255, or Andrews 54 or a bunch of others) GOOD tune.
You already have good exhaust system and intake.
My 2010 was Fullsac stage 3, I guess and had plenty of snap even pulling a trailer.
My 2014 is almost stock (Fullsac exhaust, SE air cleaner, TTS and runs verrrrry nice)
You may want to ask Fullsac what THEIR customer feedback is on similar combos.
Lots depends on your riding style and expectations. Too many choices limited by common sense and $$
JMHO, of course
 

[Schnobel]

Plan C would be my choice also, since you live in the Cities and only ride 4 months of the year and tear your bike down every winter.

Wait for it...............
 

Hah, 4 months a year is about right! I work half the year in AZ and have thought about shipping her down after the weather gets cold in MN but not sure it's worth the $1500 round trip. Figure I can rent a ride the 3-4 times I want to for less than half that and save the miles on the CVO.

[Schnobel]

Seriously, if you goal is to have a "cruiser" with little more guts, (900lbs is hard to get moving) I'd stick with mild cam (nothing wrong with the 255, or Andrews 54 or a bunch of others) GOOD tune.
You already have good exhaust system and intake.
My 2010 was Fullsac stage 3, I guess and had plenty of snap even pulling a trailer.
My 2014 is almost stock (Fullsac exhaust, SE air cleaner, TTS and runs verrrrry nice)
You may want to ask Fullsac what THEIR customer feedback is on similar combos.
Lots depends on your riding style and expectations. Too many choices limited by common sense and $$
JMHO, of course
 

It's a cruiser true but that doesn't mean it shouldn't be fun to drive. My last bike was a '02 RK Classic. Did the works on it and it was a blast to drive even though it was a bagger. Would cream most crotch rockets light to light and always gave me a big grin. Only issue was it had TOO much compression so needed to add octane booster every tank or she would ping. Had the best dyno guy in the Cities tune it but just couldn't make it go away completely.

Don't want that to happen again but have been told technology in the last 13 years is much better along with mapping technics.

[sadunbar]

I'm going to give you option C. If I were to do it all over again, I would do air cleaner, pipes, tuner, and then take it to a reputable tuner and have it tuned. Then I would ride it until the wheels feel off.

Either way best of luck with your decision.

I'd go with Option C or Option D.  If you don't know what Option D is, contact site member GRC...   He can explain it better than me...  More colorfully, anyway...   

[Schnobel]

I'd go with Option C or Option D.  If you don't know what Option D is, contact site member GRC...   He can explain it better than me...  More colorfully, anyway...   

Option D sounds intriguing? Forced air induction or dropping a 120R in it? 

Not in the budget if that's what it is and the first makes way to much heat.

[Jswerve]

Schnobel curious who you had tune the bike? I thought I took mine to the best in the twin cities (Doug Lofgren)

[BritGuy]

Just been through a similar thought process and working with my independent, I am having the following:

Easy start 585 cams
Push rod kit
S&S oil pump and cam support plate (things of beauty, but sadly out of view)
Flow matched injectors
Bassani B4 pipe
Dyno set up

I have a TTS already.

To answer the question, this looks like your option A. I can always go back for a big bore kit  and most of what I spend now will complement a future change.

[Schnobel]

Schnobel curious who you had tune the bike? I thought I took mine to the best in the twin cities (Doug Lofgren)

And you did have one of the best! Doug is who tuned my bike and isn't just the best in the state but one of the best in North America. He flys all over to train folks. Was just up in Canada teaching a big shop. He is THE professor when it comes to the science of fuel airflow, engine dynamics etc. and not just for HD's. In fact he trained the Ducati factory on EFI mapping. Great guy who will talk your ear off! 

If he did your's you have an excellent map!