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[Jswerve]

And you did have one of the best! Doug is who tuned my bike and isn't just the best in the state but one of the best in North America. He flys all over to train folks. Was just up in Canada teaching a big shop. He is THE professor when it comes to the science of fuel airflow, engine dynamics etc. and not just for HD's. In fact he trained the Ducati factory on EFI mapping. Great guy who will talk your ear off! 

If he did your's you have an excellent map!

I sure do. My bike has never run better. He's amazing. I trailered her 240 miles each way to let him work his magic.

[FlaHeatWave]

Getting ready to upgrade the 110. Added a Fullsac header and 2.25 cores as posted about recently.

Next is to give the motor a little more umph!

Option A

Cam, mild headwork, new lifters, springs and rods. Leave the factory pistons and throttle body.
Cost in the $12-1500 range.
Expected numbers around 110hp with 125tq

Option B

Cam, more headwork, new lifters, springs, rods, 112 pistons, 58mm throttle body with larger injectors.
Cost $3500 range
Expected number around 125hp with 140tq

Custom map of course with both options.

Big total Dyno numbers are not my goal. Peak curve to the left side graff more important. Running a bagger at its limits top end isn't as fun to me as the feeling when I roll on the throttle around town. Let's face it, how often can you run your bike over a 100mph anyway? Durability and reliability important. Running on pump gas only.

For the extra $2k will my "ass dyno" really be able to feel the difference between the two options? Heck, just loosing the cat and adding the exhaust was an improvement.

My current numbers are 93hp and 104tq.

Suggestions as to either options as well as components for either case?

Thanks

As others have posted, your HP / TQ #s are a bit optimistic for what works in a touring bike, I'd be a little skeptical of the source.

I'd go with Jswerve's option C with a TTS from Fullsac with their canned map and K&N filter element (you're going to need a Tuner with any other options anyway ) and see if that does it for you...

If you still want more, I'd skip "A" and go right to "B" since you want the curve to the Left, and the 255s give that.  It's much less heartache (and a lot less $$) to go "all in right off the bat" with a proven combination than "upgrading" over time. Yes, your butt dyno will feel a big difference with a well sorted 113!

There are several Reputable Builders on this forum that have the Bagger 113 combinations "dialed in". You might look at some of their Dyno Sheets that are posted here, and consult with them (see less heartache above LOL). 

My 2 cents; S&S Lifters no matter what you decide, if you go to larger TB, SE, if you go adjustable Push Rods, SE. CR 10.5 or less. SE HD Clutch Spring.

I know it's not part of your question, the Baker DD7 will make any bagger much more responsive around town.

JMHO, your results may vary...

Let us know what you decide ?   

[CVO2FIXUP]

 Before dumping coin in to the bike, I would check out the health of your crank.  Mine was 9 though out and started to gouge out my stock oil pump leading straight to a failure. If you crank is OK then proceed to plan b. The gains are terrific. I would expect around 120 120 however.  lets be realistic.     

[Jswerve]

Before dumping coin in to the bike, I would check out the health of your crank.  Mine was 9 though out and started to gouge out my stock oil pump leading straight to a failure. If you crank is OK then proceed to plan b. The gains are terrific. I would expect around 120 120 however.  lets be realistic.     

Good point  When I had cams done my crank run out was .0065

[SDCVO]

Good point  When I had cams done my crank run out was .0065

When my 120r blew up a few weeks ago and they tore it down my crank run out was .006

[Schnobel]

Before dumping coin in to the bike, I would check out the health of your crank.  Mine was 9 though out and started to gouge out my stock oil pump leading straight to a failure. If you crank is OK then proceed to plan b. The gains are terrific. I would expect around 120 120 however.  lets be realistic.     

How hard is it to check how true the crank is before doing plan whatever? I suppose that may make a difference if it's not going to hold up to the extra stresses without me doing the bottom end as well. 

Got 9k on it now.

[sadunbar]

How hard is it to check how true the crank is before doing plan whatever? I suppose that may make a difference if it's not going to hold up to the extra stresses without me doing the bottom end as well. 

Got 9k on it now.

Easy procedure once the cam chest is pulled apart.  I made a simple tool using an old camplate...

[JCZ]

If you're wanting to keep what ever reliability you have (and the warranty or extended warranty), I'd stick with plan A.  You're definately going to tell the difference by the seat of the pants dyno.  Or, if you just have to do it and start doing cams, headwork, etc. well..........it doesn't stop there.  You better bring the bank with you.

[Schnobel]

If you're wanting to keep what ever reliability you have (and the warranty or extended warranty), I'd stick with plan A.  You're definately going to tell the difference by the seat of the pants dyno.  Or, if you just have to do it and start doing cams, headwork, etc. well..........it doesn't stop there.  You better bring the bank with you.

No warranty anymore and opted not to do an extended one. Figured I'd save the up front money and pay out of pocket for whatever ails her down the road if needed.

As far as reliability, if done properly that shouldn't be an issue. In fact it should be better than what MoCo has in there by upgrading the components.

And for the record, Option A would void any such warranty as well.

My indie is upfront as to what it's going to cost and what I may expect in performance for what budget I set. My original post pretty much laid that out.

[HD Street Performance]

You are in the land of greats as far as people to get tuning done.
Razorback, Bob Thoma, is in Whitehall, WI. An excellent tuner builder.

[Schnobel]

On the same subject,

If one decided to do Option B, why wouldn't I opt to bore the heads and upgrade to a 124 verses 113 or 117? It's the same head work and imagine similar parts costs? No replacement for displacement right?

If you were going to add in domed pistons etc, why not put in bigger ones?

[HD Street Performance]

You are right on.
The fixed costs are the same as long as the cases are being bored and the crank prepared.
At the end of the day a lower compression low lift cam 124 is a lot more happy motor than a high compression 113 or 117". Very fun to ride and long lasting. I do these often because of exactly what you mentioned. Being in close proximity to S&S these builds happen out of their speed center very easily and painlessly. Most of the time they cost about $5.5K plus tuner pipes clutch and labor to install. Really you are knocking on the door of a 124LC crate motor cost though and then you have your motor as a spare at resale time plus the 124LC comes with a 2 year warranty.

[VANAMAL]

harley will use any excuse to void your warranty. After you do this they won't honor it. Air filter,pipes and a good tune. after the warranty ends then go for it

[Mr. Warlock]

On the same subject,

If one decided to do Option B, why wouldn't I opt to bore the heads and upgrade to a 124 verses 113 or 117? It's the same head work and imagine similar parts costs? No replacement for displacement right?

If you were going to add in domed pistons etc, why not put in bigger ones?

You can't get to 124 without changing the crank to a longer stroke and machining the cases.

[cmashark]

I built a 113 and works very well.   I like the 113.  Very smooth running. Mild compression at around 10.5.  Most of my parts came from GMR (I already had a set of cams) and my tune was done a Wide Open Cycles.  I didn't even consider the stock crank as being worth my build, so Steve at GMR had an S&S crank sent to me.  I guess I went with option F.

One last question.  What is this warranty thing everyone is talking about?   

Chris