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[HD Street Performance]

Thats right. Just wanted a reliable ride that I could get that way with about 6 hours work. Did that last summer on my break and rode the rest of the month. It runs fine and makes 100/109 SAE with 100TQ at 2300 rpm still 100 at 5250. Fine for me. As my wife says about her car and other appliances, "I just want to push the button and go". Next go around I will get in and change the guides. I have no expectations to win any dyno shootouts or even showcase my product. But I can sit in Sturgis traffic and not overheat and it gets from A to B, good enough for me.

[ultrafxr]

members opinions do count count here, and its a sad day for me to hear that people will not post publicly and are only using PMs.

we also do take posts like the ones between 2 vendors in this thread serious when they are reported to us.

i can assure you that you will not see anymore posts from one of them, hopefully this will get some of those members back to public posting

Thank you Neal.   

[FlaHeatWave]

'Since we were going with the T-Man 625 Cams, it made sense to have the T-Man CVO Street Performer Heads on the 117. I like the idea that TR CNC ports with Hand Finishing...

For some reason Zipper's wasn't much on the radar except we used their Redshift Dual Piston Hydraulic Tensioners...

no drama with either product, 24k mi. so far...

[North Star]

Thats right. Just wanted a reliable ride that I could get that way with about 6 hours work. Did that last summer on my break and rode the rest of the month. It runs fine and makes 100/109 SAE with 100TQ at 2300 rpm still 100 at 5250. Fine for me. As my wife says about her car and other appliances, "I just want to push the button and go". Next go around I will get in and change the guides. I have no expectations to win any dyno shootouts or even showcase my product. But I can sit in Sturgis traffic and not overheat and it gets from A to B, good enough for me.

I just meant because you do head/engine work for a living. I agree with what you say, and I have the same goals for my bike.

[prodrag1320]

Thats right. Just wanted a reliable ride that I could get that way with about 6 hours work. Did that last summer on my break and rode the rest of the month. It runs fine and makes 100/109 SAE with 100TQ at 2300 rpm still 100 at 5250. Fine for me. As my wife says about her car and other appliances, "I just want to push the button and go". Next go around I will get in and change the guides. I have no expectations to win any dyno shootouts or even showcase my product. But I can sit in Sturgis traffic and not overheat and it gets from A to B, good enough for me.

I know the feeling,thats why on my `02 RG,124" I went very mild.10.0-1,S&S .570 cams,makes 129/136 and I can go anywhere on it.between regular shop work & the dragbike,i don't want to be jacking with my street bike

[HD Street Performance]

I just meant because you do head/engine work for a living. I agree with what you say, and I have the same goals for my bike.

Oh I get that. When I get a call about 110 motor work I try hard to profile the customer and see if in fact they are just wanting a reliable head product or added performance as well. With the OEM head they are a much more reliable long lived assembly so worrying about guides, springs, and valves is more about performance right out of the gate. In the case of the 110 head we start with the reliability upgrades as a prerequisite.
You should see my scrap bin, it's a crying shame to throw out so much relatively new parts.

[FlaHeatWave]

Oh I get that. When I get a call about 110 motor work I try hard to profile the customer and see if in fact they are just wanting a reliable head product or added performance as well. With the OEM head they are a much more reliable long lived assembly so worrying about guides, springs, and valves is more about performance right out of the gate. In the case of the 110 head we start with the reliability upgrades as a prerequisite.
You should see my scrap bin, it's a crying shame to throw out so much relatively new parts.

What are your reliability (only) upgrades??

[Trapperdog]

What are your reliability (only) upgrades??

Everything but the cases and naked heads 

[HD Street Performance]

Just a good valve job with replaced guides (AV&V Bronze), seals (Cometic or AV&V Viton) and springs (AV&V Beehive). If I see any issues in the throat I will fix that like casting flash, called commonly pocket porting. Spring pressures are set and chambers are CCd and matched. ACRs are properly torqued and resealed.

[TorqueInc]

  Guides have to be priority...esp the exhaust

If a customer has fairly new heads you CAN leave the stock intake guides in place and replace the exhausts.

Sinking the valves a tick and thinner spring locators (.028 instead of .060) can also help if you want to retain the stock springs

[georgw221]

I know the feeling,thats why on my `02 RG,124" I went very mild.10.0-1,S&S .570 cams,makes 129/136 and I can go anywhere on it.between regular shop work & the dragbike,i don't want to be jacking with my street bike

Can you post the dyno sheet for your '02 RG,124"

[Rooster]

Oh I get that. When I get a call about 110 motor work I try hard to profile the customer and see if in fact they are just wanting a reliable head product or added performance as well. With the OEM head they are a much more reliable long lived assembly so worrying about guides, springs, and valves is more about performance right out of the gate. In the case of the 110 head we start with the reliability upgrades as a prerequisite.
You should see my scrap bin, it's a crying shame to throw out so much relatively new parts.

You could weld up some cool trophy's for someones event, that is what a wrench friend of mine does and has fun with it.

[HD Street Performance]

  Guides have to be priority...esp the exhaust

If a customer has fairly new heads you CAN leave the stock intake guides in place and replace the exhausts.

Sinking the valves a tick and thinner spring locators (.028 instead of .060) can also help if you want to retain the stock springs

Agreed but I think the beehives run without that harmonic in the 2600 rpm range therefore noise is reduced.

[TorqueInc]

Agreed but I think the beehives run without that harmonic in the 2600 rpm range therefore noise is reduced.

  Good point.....not always in the budget

[sadunbar]

Agreed but I think the beehives run without that harmonic in the 2600 rpm range therefore noise is reduced.