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Author Topic: Changing Drive belt  (Read 5919 times)

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Break shot

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Changing Drive belt
« on: February 05, 2016, 07:38:39 PM »

Well I have to get my 08 cvo ultra inspected and my tire was border line so I bought a new tire , my friend owns a Auto repair shop which he rents from the owner of a motor cycle repair shop next door so we figured we could do it and if we get stuck helps next door
After removing the tire and inspecting the belt , it's toast also ,
We couldn't get the Tire seated so I'm heading to Harley in the morning to see if they can seat it , buying a manual and a belt and we are going to attemp putting on the belt also
If there's any words of wisdom feel free to chime in
I'll post picks along the way

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backroad Mike

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Re: Changing Drive belt
« Reply #1 on: February 05, 2016, 08:34:43 PM »

Buying the manual is the first step.

You will need to remove the complete primary to get the belt off the drive pulley.  Swing arm gets removed as well.  While it's apart you might want to check the swing arm bushings.  While the primary is off, check the shifter shaft seal for leaks.  If you don't have the primary gear locking tool to loosen the nuts on the compensator and clutch hub nut, and you have  a shop, it may be possible to make your own.  There are various options where to purchase one if needed.  Do you have a table lift?  The frame will need to be supported while the swing arm is off.  I have used shims between the bottom of the tranny and the cross frame support so the tranny/engine doesn't sag when the swing arm pin is removed.   In loosening the comp nut, use a 1/2 inch breaker bar that you can use a cheater bar for the extra torque needed to loosen/tighten.  I use a 3/4" length of black iron pipe.  It slides over the 5/8" handle end of my 1/2 socket wrench.  Oh, the clutch hub nut is reverse threaded.
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Break shot

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Re: Changing Drive belt
« Reply #2 on: February 05, 2016, 10:52:35 PM »

Buying the manual is the first step.

You will need to remove the complete primary to get the belt off the drive pulley.  Swing arm gets removed as well.  While it's apart you might want to check the swing arm bushings.  While the primary is off, check the shifter shaft seal for leaks.  If you don't have the primary gear locking tool to loosen the nuts on the compensator and clutch hub nut, and you have  a shop, it may be possible to make your own.  There are various options where to purchase one if needed.  Do you have a table lift?  The frame will need to be supported while the swing arm is off.  I have used shims between the bottom of the tranny and the cross frame support so the tranny/engine doesn't sag when the swing arm pin is removed.   In loosening the comp nut, use a 1/2 inch breaker bar that you can use a cheater bar for the extra torque needed to loosen/tighten.  I use a 3/4" length of black iron pipe.  It slides over the 5/8" handle end of my 1/2 socket wrench.  Oh, the clutch hub nut is reverse threaded.
Thanks for the info it's up on a motorcycle jack now I'm pretty sure the guy next door has any tool needed he's been working on them for decades he's 70 now and slow as molasses I put it in his shop could be weeks before I see it again my friend a new Harley owner himself has a great relationship with him so I'm sure he will give advice along the way as need be

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Break shot

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Re: Changing Drive belt
« Reply #3 on: February 06, 2016, 09:15:07 PM »

Ok got the primary off and will start start taking the clutch basket and front sprocket off tomorrow

Just a few notes , make sure you have a T70 torx socket this jammed me up today as 60 was the biggest we had
Also a impact driver for the Allen bolts on the primary will keep you from stripping out the ones hard to break free

We have it on a motorcycle jack we put a 6x6 under the front wheel and jack stands under the swing are for added stability and a folded piece of carboard under the primary to make a trough for the oil still reaming in the primary worked like a champ

I left the shifter heal toe on undid it at the lever going into the trans this so you don't have to align them when your putting then back on

Will have a block cut to wedge between the front and rear gears to break the compusator nuts free
Some do this with a impact but some say you can rattle magnets loose in the stator 

Harley wanted 225 for the belt , I got a drag specialties one ordered with a front brake master cylinder kit for 149 ,, big savings there ,, make sure if you bought ur bike used that it has not had a 30t conversion done which changes belt size , mine did not

More info with pics tomorrow

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Break shot

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Re: Changing Drive belt
« Reply #4 on: February 06, 2016, 10:18:27 PM »

If anyone has a link to a pdf on this I would greatly appreciate it the dealer didn't have a manual , unbelievable I guess they don't want to encourage working on them yourself


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muddypaws

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Re: Changing Drive belt
« Reply #5 on: February 07, 2016, 08:11:44 AM »

Sounds like you need a real harley mechanic.....
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Bill

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Re: Changing Drive belt
« Reply #6 on: February 07, 2016, 10:11:51 AM »

i would not use a aftermarket belt.... its one of those few parts where the stock part has a wide reputation for being vastly superior.
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Break shot

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Re: Changing Drive belt
« Reply #7 on: February 07, 2016, 01:45:50 PM »

Today went much better , if I could have got a manual at the dealer yesterday I might have saved some time but they didn't have one nor a belt ,
So starting with the 70t Torx wrench breaker bar block of wood we proceeded to attemp to break the nut ,, no go with that so grabbed a pipe wrench to hold the nut to keep it from turning
His 225 and my 260 finaly broke it free after 3 or four attemps ,, obviously the red lock tire did its job

Once we got that nut broke it was clear sailing from there , did not take off swing arm just the bushing and pushed it over enough to get the belt thru don't see a problem with getting the new one it ,, we will see when we get it
« Last Edit: February 07, 2016, 02:16:53 PM by Break shot »
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Break shot

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Re: Changing Drive belt
« Reply #8 on: February 07, 2016, 01:58:22 PM »

Pipe wrench holding nut in place
« Last Edit: February 13, 2016, 08:39:05 PM by Break shot »
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OBB

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Re: Changing Drive belt
« Reply #9 on: February 07, 2016, 02:23:47 PM »

Pipe wrench holding nut in place
Creative yet effective. I like it.  :2vrolijk_21:
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PHOTOBUCKET IS HOLDING MY PIX HOSTAGE!!!

Break shot

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Re: Changing Drive belt
« Reply #10 on: February 07, 2016, 03:04:26 PM »

Thanks didn't want to make another run to the harbor freight , we had to put a tremendous amout of torque on that bolt ,, hate to think what that number is 2 men 475 lbs total weight giving everything we had

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RayG

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Re: Changing Drive belt
« Reply #11 on: February 08, 2016, 10:48:08 AM »

I've done a few belts and never look forward to taking so much apart just to do a belt.  I have never had to remove the swin-garm.  Just pull the bolt, make sure you have a small jack under the tranny and twist the belt in as you make a small opening while moving the swing-arm.   
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RonandJanet

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Re: Changing Drive belt
« Reply #12 on: February 08, 2016, 12:18:38 PM »

I have not changed a belt yet but I am surprised this is just a task! As I think about it I always changed chains with master links.  That is much easier. 
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RayG

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Re: Changing Drive belt
« Reply #13 on: February 08, 2016, 03:41:53 PM »

Break Shot,

My belt that fell apart was a Falcon belt from Drag.  I can save you allot of time because if you put a Falcon belt on I would recommend that you keep your tools handy because in all likely hood you may be needing them again shortly.  This has been discussed on a number of Forums with the same conclusion.  Some had less miles than I did before it needed to be replaced and some thought they had it made only to have it fail with a few more miles on it.  I had this on a similar post some time back, I ended up bringing a Gates (Harley OEM) and the Falcon belt to a friends business.  Red was a lamination engineer that specialized in doing cross sectional testing for a variety of materials for a number of companies   He was familiar with the process of drive belts due to the amount of machinery that relies on them to transmit power.  Red gave it a visual and replied that the air bubbles and voids where a bonding agent was missing was all he needed to do but he would do the entire cross sectional test anyway.  It also didn't flex the same.  Red did the complete project just for chits & giggles.  A number of test were done and he came to the conclusion that the materials, thickness of laminated parts, bonding agent along with the process was extremely inferior to the OEM belt.  Of course he could only do one sample test but he concluded that if they were all made in a similar fashion that a failure would come quickly.  Mine broke on July 4Th, since I borrowed a few tools I had to wait until I could gather everything again.  I was not a happy guy for awhile.   

I should also explain that I was really taking it easy on the bike during the 3,000 miles when it shredded.  I think I was trying to make a tire last until I put a new one on to head for a week long trip with my wife.

I hope it works out for you   
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Break shot

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Re: Changing Drive belt
« Reply #14 on: February 09, 2016, 07:38:39 PM »

Break Shot,

My belt that fell apart was a Falcon belt from Drag.  I can save you allot of time because if you put a Falcon belt on I would recommend that you keep your tools handy because in all likely hood you may be needing them again shortly.  This has been discussed on a number of Forums with the same conclusion.  Some had less miles than I did before it needed to be replaced and some thought they had it made only to have it fail with a few more miles on it.  I had this on a similar post some time back, I ended up bringing a Gates (Harley OEM) and the Falcon belt to a friends business.  Red was a lamination engineer that specialized in doing cross sectional testing for a variety of materials for a number of companies   He was familiar with the process of drive belts due to the amount of machinery that relies on them to transmit power.  Red gave it a visual and replied that the air bubbles and voids where a bonding agent was missing was all he needed to do but he would do the entire cross sectional test anyway.  It also didn't flex the same.  Red did the complete project just for chits & giggles.  A number of test were done and he came to the conclusion that the materials, thickness of laminated parts, bonding agent along with the process was extremely inferior to the OEM belt.  Of course he could only do one sample test but he concluded that if they were all made in a similar fashion that a failure would come quickly.  Mine broke on July 4Th, since I borrowed a few tools I had to wait until I could gather everything again.  I was not a happy guy for awhile.   

I should also explain that I was really taking it easy on the bike during the 3,000 miles when it shredded.  I think I was trying to make a tire last until I put a new one on to head for a week long trip with my wife.

I hope it works out for you
Well I got a email into them now to see if they have had complaints about these belts and if the was a problem has it been fixed
Checked with the owner of the shop he's said he's heard of belts snapping that he's sold but couldn't remember the last time one he installed
I'll wait to hear from them before I install it
In the mean time I took all little nicks out of the rear pulley making sure there's nothing that might cut it
Probaly will put it back this weekend

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