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[BigRichRam02]

Being a drag racer from the 60s-70s you realize there's a big difference between a blower and a turbo?

I apologize for the misunderstanding I grew up with my grandfather who dragged raced in the 60's and 70's. I do know that a supercharger (Blower) is different from a turbo charger. One being pulley driven and suffering from parasitic loss the other being exhaust driven and suffering from lag.
I wouldn't say that there is a huge difference they do the exact same job two different ways.

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Pro charger is the only kit that I really like the issue I have with a turbo kit is how much heat is put back on the rider.. ITs the nature of the beast.. The Aero kits are very nice but not an option at this time.. Aero charger came to TX last year  stopped by my shop.. I rode the bikes and the kits are super cool. However they are more so for tq than HP and use a variable vane system.. The larger system is new and I have not delt with it yet..

143 is not a bolt in option per say in a dyna.. Due to the oiling system.. IT snot hard but you need to drill the cases for stock oiling and that can only be done as a after item.. S&S cannot sell it that way due to patent issues.. But a 143 would get you into the 160 range  on a bike as light as that it would be very fast..

Or just prep the smaller engine ( or build it a bit bigger)   and add a pro charger and make in the 180 hp  range ,


Until you put a number on the power level and cost endless possibility's

160 in a dyna is a anything but slow..

180+ is a rocket ship

200 + is rocket ship + boost

Pro charger send most of the tuning in the state and surrounding to us. Drago send his customers here for tuning as well ..

I just tuned a 110 CVO dyna with a procharger and it made just over 200  CNC ported heads T -MAN CAMS &  T man parts  and 12 PSI of boost

another made 202 crate 120R with a S&S 640 cam in it

the one before that made 189 crate 120R

Prepped 120R made 222 ( head work )

I tuned a 120St a few months ago with 8 psi and it made like 176 ish if I recall

[Unbalanced]

man classic I wish I had the money to drop that in my dyna. That  sucker would put the space shuttle to shame. but I guess 140hp would do me just fine.

124 S&S build, 11.3 - 11-6 to 1 compression  -   Sachs headwork - 640 cams, good 2 into 1, HD heavy breather, 58mm,  S&S blue pump, Blue Cam plate, Premium Lifters, tapered pushrods, a little gearing on the pully side and smile a lot.    If your willing to go with a little more compression, change the heads for B2's  2 bolt flange and B2 pistons and have some fun should yield the 150+ hp number except you may consider the higher ratio rocker arms depending on application.

Forgot one big piece the clutch     I am going to try the new CF2 in the hydraulic version vs. standard the rod is different between hydraulic clutch and standard.   Doing the complete kit including the basket (which is the evo industries best I can tell).

http://aim-tamachi.com/pages/cf2-2nd-generation-performance-clutch

Looking forward to your results.   I am doing something very similar now with an S&S motor expect the motor in the next week.   (cant use heavy breather have lowers    )

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Feed back on the CF2 once you use it .. We have used it a few times and not impressed  but they have all been 200 hp bikes still had slippage issues..

[Unbalanced]

Steve,

I am not shooting for 200 at this time so should be able to get you feedback.   Looking at the 130 - 140 range    for my touring bike.  Will let you know how it holds up/does.   I am switching because I am having a little/some slip 2500-3500 with stock clutch, Altos Kevlar plates, 400 spring and vpc 92.  Went this way for heavier basket and hopefully to avoid the screech that some say they get with hydraulic clutch and a couple of the after market clutches.    We will see how it goes.   

[BigRichRam02]

I like the idea of keeping it a 110 and making it a screamer i would prefer to keep it low compression since it is a daily driver and I want reliability over all else ( granted I know if i wanted reliable I wouldn't hot rod it) I want to build it in stages since I wouldn't be able to do it all at once which is the better method I'm sure.

I really don't know what I want in end power since they way it is now is the most power I have ever ridden, all I know is i want more but I don't want to turn something from fun daily rider to something that the stars have to align for textbook perfect weather and the most perfect stretch of even straight road to make it ridable.

I have only been riding for almost three years and only put down 20,000 miles so far which is fairly new still i would think, but down in San Antonio Texas I only get maybe a month of poor riding weather so i take it out all the time and as of late in my free time i have been doing more and more of it two up.

The end result should be something that will be fairly impressive to many something i can count on getting the job done every time I head out and not break the bank doing it.

I will say that as of yesterday my exhaust sounds like its leaking where the header pipe meets the front head and is first on what needs to be done which is irritating considering the d and D pipe i have is not even a year old.

[Unbalanced]

Sounds like what you really want is 10.6 to 1.  110 with 24d cam and a little head work.   58 mm throttle body
And 5.89 injectors

Reliable, 2 up capable and give up nothing you have and gain on the top end where stock cams give up.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Then just add a cam and call it good there are at least 10 cams that will offer good power and allow you to work from there. Who knows you might be very happy with a simple cam install and tune .

Just an idea of what a few kits can look like with not much work to get there

Here is a members bike 57 cams




Here is another  different cam



S&S cam + pistons




Zilla pipe on this one

[BigRichRam02]

I currently have a SE-211 cam set in the bike and it was tuned at a local stealership with the non 50 state screaming eagle tuner. It dynoed 103hp 115ftlbs.

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Keep in mind that is a STD sheet and they tend to show a higher percent vs SAE 3-5 % on avg .  Still great sheet to show how the curve looks   

[Unbalanced]

I currently have a SE-211 cam set in the bike and it was tuned at a local stealership with the non 50 state screaming eagle tuner. It dynoed 103hp 115ftlbs.

You have now come full circle in your request.   First asking to run Wide Open and beat mustangs to reliable and a little bit more.   

You may have to do some more soul searching about what you actually want and then do a bit more searching here and other sites to find what meets your financial and end results.   

Good luck with whatever you decide to do and look forward to seeing the end result.

Hello friends Im torn as to  what I should do next with my Fat Bob. I have a a few parts on my 110. SE-211 cam, D and D fatcat, SERT tuner, heavy breather intake, and heavy spring in my clutch. I daily drive the bike and get pretty aggressive with my riding I do two up riding fairly often. I am wondering if I should build on the 110 and keep its stock displacement  or bump it up to a Harley 117, Star or GMR 113, or even a S&S or Zippers 124. I spend most of my time at 70+ mph and prefer the power comes on a little later to keep[ it easy at the light. bike has 36,000 miles engine has 12,000miles. Im tired of new mustangs and other sports muscle car beating me from 75mph on.

[FlaHeatWave]

I like the idea of keeping it a 110 and making it a screamer i would prefer to keep it low compression since it is a daily driver and I want reliability over all else ( granted I know if i wanted reliable I wouldn't hot rod it) I want to build it in stages since I wouldn't be able to do it all at once which is the better method I'm sure.

I really don't know what I want in end power since they way it is now is the most power I have ever ridden, all I know is i want more but I don't want to turn something from fun daily rider to something that the stars have to align for textbook perfect weather and the most perfect stretch of even straight road to make it ridable.

I have only been riding for almost three years and only put down 20,000 miles so far which is fairly new still i would think, but down in San Antonio Texas I only get maybe a month of poor riding weather so i take it out all the time and as of late in my free time i have been doing more and more of it two up.

The end result should be something that will be fairly impressive to many something i can count on getting the job done every time I head out and not break the bank doing it.

I will say that as of yesterday my exhaust sounds like its leaking where the header pipe meets the front head and is first on what needs to be done which is irritating considering the d and D pipe i have is not even a year old.

Man, you've gone to a different planet from your first post to this one...

First Post you want to hang with muscle cars from 75 on, can be done, (up to about 125 or so) but takes a proper combination ( tons of $$$$$ spent the right way, with the right people) a combination that is in the top 0.25% yea, that's one quarter of one percent! of the Harleys out there...

This Post you want to reliable, easy street manners, cheap, & fast... Ain't going to happen with a Harley...

Piece mealing it together as you go (this post) is an absolute sure-fire way to spend the most $$$$ for the most disappointment... Plus, it can really eat into your riding, especially if you only have 1 Bike... Why do I have 3 CVOs??? So I can ride one while the other 2 are in the shop ...LOL

Old Hot Rodder's Saying; Cheap, Fast, Reliable, Pick any 2... Except, ain't nothing cheap on these Harleys...

Set come clear goals, save your $$$$, and do it right the first time...

Or get some cash together and see If Unbalanced is interested in selling one of his Pumpkins ('04 SEEG)... Considering the Monster that it is...It's one of the best dialed-in, streetable, rideable, reliable, HDs on the Planet... I really enjoyed tote'n "The Ball & Chain" on it in the mountains of WV a couple weeks back...

Or the best bang for the buck.. Pick up a used Hyabusa...

JMHO, Your results may vary...

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

well being that a new box stock 5.0 mustang will run 0-100 in 10.4 seconds  and runs a 13 1/4 they are not fast but they do a very well job of holding their own.. I have a ton of money in my RG and have run a 11.02 1/4  the cars guys add some simple bolt on power adder and they will roll right on by you . on your bike a mild cam and right ex and tune will offer great performance gains and dont worry about what the others are doing ..  enjoy the gains and just ride it .

[FlaHeatWave]

I had no idea the new 5.0s were that slow???

Maybe add some compression, make sure the Tune is good... you're not far off...

[BigRichRam02]

I apologize on the flip flopping that is coming across in my post I'm still trying to fully understand what I am working with as compared to what I am used to. Let me keep it simple then what would ya'll suggest to make it 160 hp daily driver highway screamer. No boost just straight engine doing the work.