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[ssls6]

I have a 2010 CVO black ultra with the 110.  When the bike was new, I did true duals, ventilator, and TTS tune on it.  The bike runs great and runs cool but reading this site and the occasional valve train noise has got me looking to upgrade a few things before I grenade it.  When I say occasional valve train noise I mean when the bike accelerates during the first 15 mins of having started it, I can hear what sounds like loose valves but after it is fully warm (around 30 mins) that doesn't happen.  I don't think it is a bad lifter but rather they are just slow to pump up.

The bike only has 6k miles on it (I work a lot).  Reading all the comments has left me with two lines of thinking.  First, the things I should do that are universally mentioned and second, the things I should wait on until more is known.

Here is my plan on must do's

2 inner cam torrington bearings
A cam bearing extractor/installation tool
S&S premium lifters
S&S quickee pushrod kit
gaskets, assembly lube, loctite

what I plan to wait on

new valve springs (I find it hard to understand why these should be changed)
rocker lockers (it appears to be more of a fix for rocker noise than prevention of a blown engine)
new oil pump
new cams

I don't mind the 255's and I do plan on inspecting the S&S lifters after 20k more miles.  If they are wearing, I'll replace them.  It seems to me that there isn't enough data to say that something else will eliminate the need to change the S&S lifters.  I fully admit that maybe there is enough data and I just don't understand the issue.

Does this seem like a reasonable plan or is my list wrong and/or missing something?  I have the service manual and I'm a pretty good wrench.

[J.D.]

Good plan IMO.

[ultrafxr]

Sounds like a good plan to me also.  This is what I did to my '07 after the ESP expired and I couldn't renew it since I have well over 75k on it.  But I stayed with the stock push rods.  Just don't like the additional weight of the adjustables and the possibility the locking nuts could loosen and allow it to come out of adjustment.  I know, I know, if installed properly that should not happen but I know a couple folks it has happened to so I stayed with the stock one piece push rods.

[skratch]

why wait on the rocker lockers?  you're already going to have the rocker covers off, and they are a quick, easy install.  made a big difference on my bike.

[DCFIREMANN]

why wait on the rocker lockers?  you're already going to have the rocker covers off, and they are a quick, easy install.  made a big difference on my bike.

No need to remove the rocker covers if he is going to adjustable pushrods. I always cut out the stock ones so I don't have to mess with the top end.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[HD Street Performance]

What you describe..
Are you sure it is valve train?

Piston slap is worse cold.
A failing lifter does not only present cold.
Lifters that bleed off will pump up quickly

[ssls6]

What you describe..
Are you sure it is valve train?

Piston slap is worse cold.
A failing lifter does not only present cold.
Lifters that bleed off will pump up quickly

Absolutely not sure but it is a minor thing and not the reason I'm doing the work.  The only real action that's I've been sufficiently scared into is cam bearings and lifters.

[mjb765]

not to hijack the thread...but do the rocker lockers really make that much of a difference?? Saw those once, but never knew anyone who was using them.

[HD Street Performance]

Cheap insurance, I use the lockers. Just can fix noise but not anything that will fail a motor.

Go ahead and make the changes but if this is piston slap it will still be there. If pistons are fitting that poorly the noise will get worse and eventually the motor will suck oil. Many guys do fixes to these bikes based on their mechanical comfort level. If doing a leakdown and pulling the heads and barrels seems a bit much I suggest you get the bike to a shop you can trust that is competent and can diagnose the problem. Let them do the talking and diagnosis rather than bringing your ideas to the show. See what they suggest based on testing and their experience.

[J.D.]

Rocker noise = annoying
Lifter noise = $$$

[ssls6]

Cheap insurance, I use the lockers. Just can fix noise but not anything that will fail a motor.

Go ahead and make the changes but if this is piston slap it will still be there. If pistons are fitting that poorly the noise will get worse and eventually the motor will suck oil. Many guys do fixes to these bikes based on their mechanical comfort level. If doing a leakdown and pulling the heads and barrels seems a bit much I suggest you get the bike to a shop you can trust that is competent and can diagnose the problem. Let them do the talking and diagnosis rather than bringing your ideas to the show. See what they suggest based on testing and their experience.

Good advice, thanks.  I had piston slap in a small block chevy and it was pronounced at idle but once the engine was fully warm you couldn't hear it.  I don't think that is my problem or even if I have a problem....I still question if it's just my imagination.  If it is slap, then I have the skills to fix it albeit slower and maybe not as well as someone who does it for a living.  I have rebuilt motors (motorcycles & cars) just not a harley motor.  Part of me says "just let it grenade and replace it with an S&S", that way I won't be chasing a losing proposition with money.

Lifters, cam bearings, and a wait and see strategy I think makes sense but I'm trying not to assume too much.  I do appreciate all the comments from the group.

[Fullsac Performance]

Sounds like a good plan to me also.  This is what I did to my '07 after the ESP expired and I couldn't renew it since I have well over 75k on it.  But I stayed with the stock push rods.  Just don't like the additional weight of the adjustables and the possibility the locking nuts could loosen and allow it to come out of adjustment.  I know, I know, if installed properly that should not happen but I know a couple folks it has happened to so I stayed with the stock one piece push rods.

 

One more hour labor, 200 bucks in your pocket. Piece of mind.  I will not run adjustables in anything I own.

Steve@fullsac.com

[J.D.]

I'd go with just about any strategy here other than the "just let it grenade".

Adjustable have their pros and cons.  For me personally, on a motor that I plan to swap lifters quickly every 20k (or sooner) those adjustable sure make life easy down the line.

[CVODON]

It is not necessary, regardless of what people who have never worked on a motor tell you, to change to adjustable pushrods.They are heavy, have adjustments (that can come loose) and are just not necessary. Nothing to be gained. People that know and understand valve train harmonic's and operation spend thousands to lighten the valve train and yet Harley people will put in extra weight pushrods and think it is a good thing.

[Twolanerider]

It is not necessary, regardless of what people who have never worked on a motor tell you, to change to adjustable pushrods.They are heavy, have adjustments (that can come loose) and are just not necessary. Nothing to be gained. People that know and understand valve train harmonic's and operation spend thousands to lighten the valve train and yet Harley people will put in extra weight pushrods and think it is a good thing.

Adjustables are chosen not because they're heavier (that'd be asinine) or because they might come loose (an admittedly unlikely occurrence if installed correctly).  They're chosen (obviously) just because they're the easier solution.  It's not drama or soap opera and, for most highway cruisers and local riders, it's not by any means a performance choice.  It's just an easier choice that saves time and (potentially) money.