1st, I think Vaz is jerking, not pulling, legs about Amsoil being same as Syn3...it is NOT!!!
I use Mobil I Vtwin 20W50 in the crankcase. Amsoil 20w50 is another equally good choice. I get the Mobil I because it's readily available at Advanced Auto and other places like that. I also use K&N Chrome Oil filters because I like the convenience of the nut on the end to get them loose. HD, or Amsoil filters will do as well. One of the better filters is a Wix, but they aren't chrome and are not easy to find. I would never put Syn3 back in my motor...it came out at 500 miles.
I change crankcase oil every 5K...with good synthetics like those listed above, anything sooner is a waste of product, IMO. But this chit is like talking about religion...
I was running Mobil 1 in all three holes, but last time I switched the tranny to Redline Shockproof (heavy duty), and the primary to Redline MTL. I'll be changing them every other time from now on. Opinions on that are also like religion/politics. Bottom line is that you can't go wrong using any of the products mentioned thus far, and the application.
I drain everything when the oil is hot, or at least very warm...you'll have to ride the bike a few miles before doing the service to get it all warm enough. A good baggie over the oil filter after you've intitially broken it loose will help with catching some of the mess. I use my J&S jack when changing fluids, and the draining piece that attaches to it, allowing all the fluid to drain to one point, and I picked up a neat catch pan at Wally World that is rectangular, has a capped spout on one end, two holes with removable plugs where the oil drains into the pan...keeps it all contained. I have a 5 gallon bucket, also available at Wal Mark, to store a couple of three changes in before taking to the recycle place. If you use the same product in all three holes, one funnel will do. If you use Redline HD Shockproof in the tranny, you'll need another funnel dedicated to that pink, sticky, chit, unless you want to clean it out...I use one of the measuring type funnels with a tube on the end, as the tranny doesn't take more than about 20oz on pre 07 bikes. My opinion is not to put more than 3.5 quarts in the crankcase, ride it around a day or two, then check the level. My bike likes to be 1/3 to 1/2 quart low...it'll blow the excess out the breather otherwise (over time).
Always use new o-rings, and at least entertain the idea of a new Derby cover gasket on the primary. Also torque the bolts...I do this as I tend to want to overtighten everything. If you tell your dealer you want all the gaskets/o-rings to do a complete change, they should have them right behind the counter...at least mine does. Clean all the magnetic plugs well before reinstalling them with a clean shop towel...I use the paper ones for this kind of stuff, and look to make sure there are no unusual pieces of metal attached to the magnets. It'll be like a fine gray silt if all is well.
If you do not have an Automatic Primary Chain Tensioner, you'll have to check that as well through the side inspection plate and adjust per the sevice manual. The Auto adjuster is money well spent, IMO. Parts manuals help a lot because they have the exploded diagrams of how everything is put together if you forget.
It's also a good time to give everything a good once-over to see if anything is about to fall off the scooter...these Harleys shake, rattle and roll. Keep your receipts and write down when you did the work, especially if it's still in warranty.
Congratulations, you've just saved yourself over 200 dollars, you know it's been done correctly, and it gives you the familiarity with the bike so you'll know where things are located. If you just detest doing this kind of stuff, don't do it again. I get a lot of satisfaction working on my own bike as much as possible. I don't trust dealers though.
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Topic: Fluid Changing 101 (Read 7954 times)