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Author Topic: Trying to avoid 110 Engine Issues  (Read 7996 times)

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rkelon

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Trying to avoid 110 Engine Issues
« on: July 17, 2007, 07:07:14 PM »

I just bought a 2007 Springer and I am trying to avoid the heat issues.  I ordered a Power Commander for the heat and Rush slip-on mufflers...for sound.  Any other heat remedies?  Advice appreciated.
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SOKOOLJ

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Re: Trying to avoid 110 Engine Issues
« Reply #1 on: July 17, 2007, 09:25:25 PM »

My advice, RUN AWAY!!! Kidding, but I don't think that the issue has been completely figured out yet. Some folks here have made some adjustments that work quite favorably. I personally have had no issues with heat since I had the complete rebuild and the new map, and I am all stock without any mods at all. I am sure the experts will give beter responses once they read your thread. Good luck.
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bisounours

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Re: Trying to avoid 110 Engine Issues
« Reply #2 on: July 18, 2007, 03:14:41 AM »

I just bought a 2007 Springer and I am trying to avoid the heat issues.  I ordered a Power Commander for the heat and Rush slip-on mufflers...for sound.  Any other heat remedies?  Advice appreciated.

  :welcome_005: on the CVO website.

 It would be fine for the other members if you present you in the thread "New Member Introduction"
with a pic of your bike   :2vrolijk_21:

Ride safe !

Best regards

  :vrolijk_26: Jacques
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Re: Trying to avoid 110 Engine Issues
« Reply #3 on: July 18, 2007, 03:52:53 AM »

I just bought a 2007 Springer and I am trying to avoid the heat issues.  I ordered a Power Commander for the heat and Rush slip-on mufflers...for sound.  Any other heat remedies?  Advice appreciated.

rkelon  welcome aboard  :2vrolijk_21:

 :worthless:
 
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Seegarsmkr

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Re: Trying to avoid 110 Engine Issues
« Reply #4 on: July 18, 2007, 06:56:49 AM »

Aren't we all...you may want to add a little more clean air to the mix...I know too much air is the problem in the first place but if you have a good tune with the PC should all work out. 

Konichiwa from Okinawa,

Seegarz :2vrolijk_21:

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If it sticks...force it...if it breaks...the damn thing needed replacing anyway!!

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bc

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Re: Trying to avoid 110 Engine Issues
« Reply #5 on: July 18, 2007, 10:45:51 AM »

I just bought a 2007 Springer and I am trying to avoid the heat issues.  I ordered a Power Commander for the heat and Rush slip-on mufflers...for sound.  Any other heat remedies?  Advice appreciated.

That will bring it into reasonability range.  Doing more is strictly optional. 

bc
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miker

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Re: Trying to avoid 110 Engine Issues
« Reply #6 on: July 18, 2007, 10:51:48 AM »

Run it a little on the rich side, I am around 13.5 afr, no soot on the plug but a little black smoke when cold as the loop ain't in control when it s cold.

Miker
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rkelon

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Re: Trying to avoid 110 Engine Issues
« Reply #7 on: July 18, 2007, 02:45:20 PM »

13.5 is what they are tuning it for the guy at FuelMoto was helpful.  He said to wait until I get about 100 miles on the bike before I do the install.  I am on mile 32...rain.

Seegarz...konichiwa.  Mina genki desu ka?  Okinawa wa do desu ka?  Ato de.
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Panther

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Re: Trying to avoid 110 Engine Issues
« Reply #8 on: July 18, 2007, 02:52:42 PM »

I put a dealer installed SERT on my bike along with Rinehart slip ons and SE air cleaner.  I felt like the heat was definitely more than my anniversary RKC, but not really as bad as I expected after reading many of the posts on this site.  And I have had it out in the Texas heat in traffic.  I just installed the Kurakyn heat shields that sit just above the motor on each side, and I along with my wife can definitely tell a difference with the shields installed.  Some may not like the looks, but I think it's the best $50 I've spent on the bike.  Hope this helps.

Panther.
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rkelon

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Re: Trying to avoid 110 Engine Issues
« Reply #9 on: July 19, 2007, 04:07:28 PM »

I see your point, but from what I have learned the open engine bikes don't have the same issues as the dressers, which trap heat due to the lower fairing pieces.  Additionally, the SE tune only dropped AFR to 14.1, which is why I went with the piggyback chip, which deleted the sensors and remaps the fuel curve.  However, I do appreciate the advise...every little bit of knowledge helps.
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SOKOOLJ

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Re: Trying to avoid 110 Engine Issues
« Reply #10 on: July 19, 2007, 04:12:25 PM »

I put a dealer installed SERT on my bike along with Rinehart slip ons and SE air cleaner.  I felt like the heat was definitely more than my anniversary RKC, but not really as bad as I expected after reading many of the posts on this site.  And I have had it out in the Texas heat in traffic.  I just installed the Kurakyn heat shields that sit just above the motor on each side, and I along with my wife can definitely tell a difference with the shields installed.  Some may not like the looks, but I think it's the best $50 I've spent on the bike.  Hope this helps.

Panther.
Before the motor replacement I had the heat shields as well, but I got rid of them cause it felt like they just absorbed the heat and applied directly to my leg. Course since the new motor, no heat problems  :2vrolijk_21:
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blowncobra

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Re: Trying to avoid 110 Engine Issues
« Reply #11 on: July 19, 2007, 05:07:53 PM »

230 degrees never hurts a harley :nixweiss:  My springer has stock air filter V&H staggered big shots with O2 sensors connected, an oil cooler and amsoil synthetic,  here in Florida on a 98 degree day in stop and go traffic it runs 220 +/- . At road speeds 190-210. Runs great, crisp response, cold start up good, pipes are tanish brown, no pre-ignition. I ride with alot of guys that get nervous at 200 and really uptight when they see 210 degrees, heck at 210 things are getting pretty clean and efficient. The feedback fuel system works fine stock, overfueling to get cooler temps is asking for trouble with upper cylinder wear and fuel saturation of the crankcase.
But then again we all have our opinions and ideas? :2vrolijk_21:
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Re: Trying to avoid 110 Engine Issues
« Reply #12 on: July 19, 2007, 05:19:58 PM »

230 degrees never hurts a harley :nixweiss:  My springer has stock air filter V&H staggered big shots with O2 sensors connected, an oil cooler and amsoil synthetic,  here in Florida on a 98 degree day in stop and go traffic it runs 220 +/- . At road speeds 190-210. Runs great, crisp response, cold start up good, pipes are tanish brown, no pre-ignition. I ride with alot of guys that get nervous at 200 and really uptight when they see 210 degrees, heck at 210 things are getting pretty clean and efficient. The feedback fuel system works fine stock, overfueling to get cooler temps is asking for trouble with upper cylinder wear and fuel saturation of the crankcase.
But then again we all have our opinions and ideas? :2vrolijk_21:

Well before I had the top end apart, I was seeing 260-270 on 90 degree days! That's too high for me. Maybe it was the leaky head gaskets, or maybe bad barrel, or both. I'm hoping the new top end and a proper tune will bring the heat back down! ;) Hoist! 8)
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BalDeagle

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Re: Trying to avoid 110 Engine Issues
« Reply #13 on: July 19, 2007, 05:59:25 PM »

I just bought a 2007 Springer and I am trying to avoid the heat issues.  I ordered a Power Commander for the heat and Rush slip-on mufflers...for sound.  Any other heat remedies?  Advice appreciated.

Only other thing I would suggest would be to change the A/C. Let the baby breath and get rid of the intake sensor.

Nige
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Re: Trying to avoid 110 Engine Issues
« Reply #14 on: July 19, 2007, 07:58:56 PM »

230 degrees never hurts a harley :nixweiss:  My springer has stock air filter V&H staggered big shots with O2 sensors connected, an oil cooler and amsoil synthetic,  here in Florida on a 98 degree day in stop and go traffic it runs 220 +/- . At road speeds 190-210. Runs great, crisp response, cold start up good, pipes are tanish brown, no pre-ignition. I ride with alot of guys that get nervous at 200 and really uptight when they see 210 degrees, heck at 210 things are getting pretty clean and efficient. The feedback fuel system works fine stock, overfueling to get cooler temps is asking for trouble with upper cylinder wear and fuel saturation of the crankcase.
But then again we all have our opinions and ideas? :2vrolijk_21:
cobra,

You might want to 'splain to those folks that the oil needs to get hot enough to drive off all the moisture that collects in it, otherwise you have lots of acid floating around doing bad things to expensive parts.  In case they don't know, water boils at 212°F at sea level.

I remember back in the dark ages when cars came with relatively accurate and responsive gauges for things like coolant temp and oil pressure.  So few people understood proper operating parameters and normal tolerances that these gauges often lead to complaints (my temp gauge runs 190 and my buddies only runs 180, etc.).  Since customer education proved to be futile, we solved the problem by removing the numbers from the gauges and just showing a large "normal" band.  When this still didn't satisfy many folks, we took the next step and basically converted the gauges to pseudo idiot lights.  Still have gauges, they just don't move much.  The point of my rambling is that perhaps there is too much information being made available to a public that has no clue what it means, and we need to go back to the basic "idiot light" systems.  

A good "normal" operating temperature for a Twin Cam engine is going to be in the 220 - 240 range with the bike moving.

Jerry
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