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Author Topic: HOW-TO-----Trailering  (Read 8992 times)

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miker

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #15 on: November 21, 2007, 09:35:56 AM »

I find using the bike pro's , you don't need to crank the crap out of the tie downs. A couplea pulls maybe 1 in on the forks.  I also put a 6" stripe of anti slip tape in.  One strap over the seat with a little pressure keeps them from walking.  The trailer is  haulmark lowhaluer edge 2 axle.  Nice trailer but only holds 2 bikes....

Miker
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RedDevil

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #16 on: November 21, 2007, 09:55:41 AM »

I find using the bike pro's , you don't need to crank the crap out of the tie downs. A couplea pulls maybe 1 in on the forks.  I also put a 6" stripe of anti slip tape in.  One strap over the seat with a little pressure keeps them from walking.  The trailer is  haulmark lowhaluer edge 2 axle.  Nice trailer but only holds 2 bikes....

Miker

that could be why I haven't had any problems using the handle bars.  I don't crank the crap out of them...in fact I don't even compress the forks...supposedly not necessary with the Bike Pro. I use the staps mainly for fore/aft and side to side stabilization.
Cheers :2vrolijk_21:,
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LRebel

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #17 on: November 21, 2007, 01:34:04 PM »

Wheeldock is AWESOME!  www.wheeldock.com  I haul my bike in the back of my toy-hauler and never worry about it.

I pull it up in the wheeldock and then use ratchet straps from the passenger footboards to pull the bike forward into the wheeldock and it never moves.  The wheeldock is worth the $$

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WFP

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #18 on: November 21, 2007, 06:21:16 PM »

One thing I read (I believe with the Condor Chock Documentation) is that you should have both the front and rear (basically all) tie-downs pulling in the same direction.  I guess the theory is that if they are opposing each other they theoretically can cause each other to become looser by pulling the bike in different directions through repeaded stopping and starting of the trailer and tow vehicle during normal operation.  Therefore, my tiedowns were installed to always pull the bike forward into the wheel chock.

That said, I had a bike in the bed of my pickup for 1300 miles times two when I took my 97 RK to Daytona in Feb 99.  The tiedown points were pulling in opposite directions....but I did not have a chock either.

/Bill
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porthole

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #19 on: November 21, 2007, 10:43:31 PM »

I use Bike Pro chocks for the obvious reason, ride in and get off.

I drilled holes in the upright of the chock and and use ratchet straps from the hole, over the tire and back down. Cinched up tight. This way the bike gets to "ride" the full travel of the front suspension, and I don't have to  worry about the oil cooler hitting the fender.

In the rear I also use two ratchet straps, usually from the deck to the the saddle bag guards. Sometimes I go the wheel. If two bikes are in the trailer then I will add extra straps just to make sure they don't sway into each other.

12' with a V-nose is OK, if no V I would go with the 14, you'll be glad you did. Put two bikes in the Lo-Pro 12' trailer and you have no room in the front
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RedDevil

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #20 on: November 22, 2007, 12:10:20 PM »

I use Bike Pro chocks for the obvious reason, ride in and get off.

I drilled holes in the upright of the chock and and use ratchet straps from the hole, over the tire and back down. Cinched up tight. This way the bike gets to "ride" the full travel of the front suspension, and I don't have to  worry about the oil cooler hitting the fender.

In the rear I also use two ratchet straps, usually from the deck to the the saddle bag guards. Sometimes I go the wheel. If two bikes are in the trailer then I will add extra straps just to make sure they don't sway into each other.

12' with a V-nose is OK, if no V I would go with the 14, you'll be glad you did. Put two bikes in the Lo-Pro 12' trailer and you have no room in the front

Duane,
Can you show a pic of where you drilled the holes in your Bike Pro?  there is an option that you can get to do the same thing, but it has to be put on when the floor plate is installed.  I didn't have that done, so I'm interested in your fix and would like to see how you did it.  Thanks.
cheers :2vrolijk_21:,
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porthole

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #21 on: November 22, 2007, 05:00:42 PM »

Duane,
Can you show a pic of where you drilled the holes in your Bike Pro?  there is an option that you can get to do the same thing, but it has to be put on when the floor plate is installed.  I didn't have that done, so I'm interested in your fix and would like to see how you did it.  Thanks.
cheers :2vrolijk_21:,
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Will do, will take a picture later when I take a picture of the odometer for all the nay-sayers :oops:

I didn't care for the Bike Pro option because it under the plate, and most times only the plate is in the trailer.
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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #22 on: November 22, 2007, 05:12:47 PM »

Will do, will take a picture later when I take a picture of the odometer for all the nay-sayers :oops:

I didn't care for the Bike Pro option because it under the plate, and most times only the plate is in the trailer.
Thanks appreciate it Bro.  ;)  I didn't put it in for that exact reason;  I didn't want it sticking up when I removed the Bike Pro from the plate.
cheers  :2vrolijk_21:,
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porthole

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #23 on: November 22, 2007, 08:47:38 PM »


Can you show a pic of where you drilled the holes in your Bike Pro? 


Here is the chock with the holes, I think they are 9/16". one on each side

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porthole

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #24 on: November 22, 2007, 08:50:25 PM »

Here the bike is strapped in. I can use one or two straps. If using two, the strap end hook just hooks on the 1/2" rail.
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RedDevil

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #25 on: November 22, 2007, 08:50:47 PM »

Here is the chock with the holes, I think they are 9/16". one on each side



That'll work...when I get the trailer back, I'll have to make that mod to mine....
cheers :2vrolijk_21:,
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porthole

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #26 on: November 22, 2007, 08:53:06 PM »

On the ratchet end of the strap I removed the strap and added a stainless snap link and shackle . Mainly to keep the ratchet away from the fork.

This shortened the ratchet end about 6-8"
« Last Edit: November 22, 2007, 08:56:53 PM by porthole »
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porthole

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #27 on: November 22, 2007, 08:55:09 PM »

added a stainless snap link and shackle


Now that I see this picture, it really doesn't show the shackle very well.
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icybay

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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #28 on: November 25, 2007, 11:26:06 AM »

I always block the frame right under the engine with a stack of 2 x 12 by 1 foot long before tightening the straps down so there is no suspension working to loosen the straps. It also prevents the bike from falling over immediately if a strap chafes or whatever. It keeps the bike from moving around at all.
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Re: HOW-TO-----Trailering
« Reply #29 on: November 25, 2007, 11:36:15 AM »

I always block the frame right under the engine with a stack of 2 x 12 by 1 foot long before tightening the straps down so there is no suspension working to loosen the straps. It also prevents the bike from falling over immediately if a strap chafes or whatever. It keeps the bike from moving around at all.
I had heard about this technique and actually tried it, but I noticed when I removed the boards from under the bike there was powdercoat from frame on them from the boards rubbing. Have you noticed or had that problem?

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