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[Twolanerider]

2. The installation of the Wild1 575s made those grommets go away. Thw new width of the bars eat up all of the space and then some. The bars are actually touching the inner fairing inside the opening and the fairing cap had to be clearanced a bit to go over them, but only about 1/16th or 3/32nd. One other item I noted was that the metal brackets that hold the switches in the fairing cap is actually in contact with the bars, keeping the fairing cap from seating in 100%.

While I like the bars a lot and think they'll be great to ride with, they're not simply a plug-n-play upgrade. You have to be willing to do some modifications to make them fit. Most won't be immediately obvious, but there were a few surprises while doing the install.

That's interesting.  Mine had no such variation.  Grommets still in place and no contact anywhere.  The one other set I installed after my own were also without any such issue.  Not even close actually...

[Twolanerider]

Doesn't look that dissimilar to mine, Chuck - the bottom of the hole looks more "finished" with the rubbers in place, just, I think.  

Yes, TwoLane of this parish did the same - routed the throttle cables beside the bars, but I would be forever annoyed by the hole in the inner fairing then, so I went for the longer cables.

Jim

Didn't have to route the cables that way when the change was the handlebars only.  Did have to reroute that way when the throttle body was changed later.  It moved everything outboard just a tiny bit.  And after the handlebars I know longer had that tiny bit to play with.

During the recent top end Buttonfly Resurrection I replaced the stock cables with a set of 2" over length cables (had one that gotten a bit rough inside).  So now routed back in their stock position .

[Chief]

That's interesting.  Mine had no such variation.  Grommets still in place and no contact anywhere.  The one other set I installed after my own were also without any such issue.  Not even close actually...

Puzzling. Have no answers as to why the differences exist. In my case, the front bolts of the handlebar clamps are actually touching the bottom of the radio, even cutting into the rubber trim. I'm going to knock off the edges of the caps to add more clearance.

The handlebars are almost, if not actually, touching the inner fairing where it curves back over the top of them.

Everything appears to be saying that the bars are higher than necessary or the fairing is lower than it should be.

The bars are attached to the top of the triples and the fairing is keyed onto the ring dowel in the lower triple which means there isn't any real wiggle room to mess with.

I guess I could remove the risers and shorten them 1/4" and then everything, except the clearanced fairing cap would fit just perfect.

[Twolanerider]

Puzzling. Have no answers as to why the differences exist. In my case, the front bolts of the handlebar clamps are actually touching the bottom of the radio, even cutting into the rubber trim. I'm going to knock off the edges of the caps to add more clearance.

The handlebars are almost, if not actually, touching the inner fairing where it curves back over the top of them.

Everything appears to be saying that the bars are higher than necessary or the fairing is lower than it should be.

The bars are attached to the top of the triples and the fairing is keyed onto the ring dowel in the lower triple which means there isn't any real wiggle room to mess with.

I guess I could remove the risers and shorten them 1/4" and then everything, except the clearanced fairing cap would fit just perfect.

Reason for the variation is (I think?) pretty obvious.  We're not talking much difference to make a problem or not.  There's some wiggle room in the bracket adjustments that mount the inner fairing.  Everything else stems from that.

[Eqcons]

Didn't have to route the cables that way when the change was the handlebars only.  Did have to reroute that way when the throttle body was changed later.  It moved everything outboard just a tiny bit.  And after the handlebars I know longer had that tiny bit to play with.

During the recent top end Buttonfly Resurrection I replaced the stock cables with a set of 2" over length cables (had one that gotten a bit rough inside).  So now routed back in their stock position .

Yes, I have a bit of a tale with my replacement cables too, Don. I went to change them 2 weekends ago, took the old ones off, and just (thanks goodness!) had a random thought to lay the new and old alongside each other just to check how much longer they were.  They were, to my surprise, identical length.    Rushing to check the history of the transaction to complain to the supplier he'd sent the wrong cables, I   realised that I'd been what you chaps across the water might call a "doofus" yes?  I'd ordered the standard ones again!!!!  What an idiot.     Anybody want to buy a new set of standard length cables?  

I went with 3" over, and when I fitted them, I ended up still thinking they looked tight, and wondering where the extra 3" went, but they are beautifully free and work a treat!  

Jim

[Twolanerider]

 "doofus" yes?  

Gee Jim.  Since I don't lose parts or do other things like that it's not a term I'm familiar with....
















(the voices in my head are screaming "doofii, doofii!!")

[Eqcons]

Gee Jim.  Since I don't lose parts or do other things like that it's not a term I'm familiar with....


(the voices in my head are screaming "doofii, doofii!!")

   

[Chief]

Reason for the variation is (I think?) pretty obvious.  We're not talking much difference to make a problem or not.  There's some wiggle room in the bracket adjustments that mount the inner fairing.  Everything else stems from that.

That's exactly what I thought and that's why I've loosened up everything so it all has a bit of slop, but the amount I can move things around isn't nealy enough to make things clear. It rocks back and forth very easily and moves up and down very slightly. There are definitely end stops to the movement when holes and bolts come together.

The only way I can get any appreciable movement in a vertical direction is if I allow the inner fairing bracket to slip off of the ring dowel on the lower triple. Once that happens, I can get all the clearance I want. Elongating those holes is a possibility and would solve most if not all interference problems.

[Twolanerider]

That's exactly what I thought and that's why I've loosened up everything so it all has a bit of slop, but the amount I can move things around isn't nealy enough to make things clear. It rocks back and forth very easily and moves up and down very slightly. There are definitely end stops to the movement when holes and bolts come together.

The only way I can get any appreciable movement in a vertical direction is if I allow the inner fairing bracket to slip off of the ring dowel on the lower triple. Once that happens, I can get all the clearance I want. Elongating those holes is a possibility and would solve most if not all interference problems.

Have to love precision repeatable manufacturing tolerances and assembly... 

[MikeD]

Cheif, what kind of rear shocks are on that?

[Twolanerider]

Cheif, what kind of rear shocks are on that?

BiteUWallet.  Bitubo.  Something like that.

[Twolanerider]

BiteUWallet.  Bitubo.  Something like that.

Whatever they are they're really expensive and no one with a lick of sense would pay that much for a pair of bagger bike shocks.  It's just dumb.

[Chief]

Have to love precision repeatable manufacturing tolerances and assembly... 

Or part revisions. It happened to me on the rear fender struts, hole spacing difference of 0.150". I guess it could happen here too.

[Twolanerider]

Whatever they are they're really expensive and no one with a lick of sense would pay that much for a pair of bagger bike shocks.  It's just dumb.

Just installed mine last week......

[Chief]

Just installed mine last week......

Ya big dummy.