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Author Topic: Cam tensioner..  (Read 4750 times)

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phattey

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Cam tensioner..
« on: April 29, 2008, 11:23:15 AM »

Engine's starting to make some nosies at idle that are new to me. Sounds kinda like a tinny rattle, like the heatsheilds are lose, but the dealer states at 22K miles it's probably my cam tensioner.

Is that a DIY that's not too painful...??






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Coolbreeze

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Re: Cam tensioner..
« Reply #1 on: April 29, 2008, 12:00:28 PM »

At 22k if the tensioners are gone, the dealer should replace them free of charge out of a sense of embarrassment alone!   :soapbox:

I put gears in mine at 20k.  The tensioners were perfect.  (dammit, guessed wrong again!)
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erniezap

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Re: Cam tensioner..
« Reply #2 on: April 29, 2008, 12:03:47 PM »

I replaced mine at 22K and the inner was about to come apart.  Go with gear drive and forget that you ever had the the tensioners...
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phattey

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Re: Cam tensioner..
« Reply #3 on: April 29, 2008, 12:08:59 PM »

What's a ballpark price for gear drive..??? That's something the dealer would have to do...I have no courage for that...
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Talon

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Re: Cam tensioner..
« Reply #4 on: April 29, 2008, 12:13:22 PM »

My bike made that noise intermediately off the show room floor, took it in three times, they never to it to make the noise, or so they said. Since I changed to Mobil1 after 3,000 miles I haven't heard it. Hope to pull the cover off this fall and change to gear drive. Unless something goes south before then!  :-\
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erniezap

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Re: Cam tensioner..
« Reply #5 on: April 29, 2008, 12:14:28 PM »

What's a ballpark price for gear drive..??? That's something the dealer would have to do...I have no courage for that...

I would guess about a grand or so...
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Fired00d

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Re: Cam tensioner..
« Reply #6 on: April 29, 2008, 12:58:57 PM »

What's a ballpark price for gear drive..??? That's something the dealer would have to do...I have no courage for that...
One thing to think about if indeed the tensioners have gone south is to consider changing out the oil pump at this time. When the tensioners begin to go the parts that break loose can do damage to the oil pump. Couple of recommendations for the oil pump is either a Feuling, or the new pump the MoCo has out.

For cams I would suggest either Yuill Bros YB14SEC or Zippers 575's. Both of those are bolt in cams designed specifically for the CVO 103ci motors, both come in gear or chain drive, and both will give better performance.

As for cost you're probably looking at $1000.00 - $1500.00 for parts and probably another $1000.00  +/- for install and tuning after.

I had mine replaced a couple of years ago (with the Zippers 575's) and at that time I did the Feuling Oil Pump, Feuling Lifters, Zippers Adjustable Pushrods, and Zippers Oil Pressure Bypass Shim. All of these (or equivalent to them) you may want to consider when doing the cams.

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Re: Cam tensioner..
« Reply #7 on: April 29, 2008, 01:01:03 PM »

About $300-400 for cams, about $400 for the gear drive, and labor. Probably over a grad, maybe $1100-1200 depending on who does the work. Of course it's only about $800 if you do it yourself.

But you can't stop there. You'll want a Feuling oil pump and lifters, new pushrods, probably roller rockers. Well you get the idea. I wouldn't just do cams though, without these other enhancements as well. ;)

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CVOJOE

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Re: Cam tensioner..
« Reply #8 on: April 29, 2008, 02:19:57 PM »

About $300-400 for cams, about $400 for the gear drive, and labor. Probably over a grad, maybe $1100-1200 depending on who does the work. Of course it's only about $800 if you do it yourself.

But you can't stop there. You'll want a Feuling oil pump and lifters, new pushrods, probably roller rockers. Well you get the idea. I wouldn't just do cams though, without these other enhancements as well. ;)

Hoist! 8)

Yep, what Howie said! If you're opening it up, makes sense to upgrade the critical items like the oil pump, lifters, pushrods, etc  and the camplate as well.
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phattey

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Re: Cam tensioner..
« Reply #9 on: April 29, 2008, 02:44:56 PM »

I always knew that if I opened it up I'd start the upgrades...top and bottem end....Hmmmm...

I guess that time has arrived...
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Twolanerider

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Re: Cam tensioner..
« Reply #10 on: April 29, 2008, 02:50:25 PM »

I always knew that if I opened it up I'd start the upgrades...top and bottem end....Hmmmm...

I guess that time has arrived...


Oh chit Ronny...  ???

If you're looking at it from that perspective we need to chat man.  I mean CHAT!

How about all bolt on, not even touching the bottom end (so you're only staying "expensive" and not crossing over to "EXPENSIVE!!") work that can be done in a shop day or two that will roll you out the door in to the 120s for power with so much sweet torque down low and in the cruising range that your happy places tingle?
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phattey

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Re: Cam tensioner..
« Reply #11 on: April 29, 2008, 03:25:38 PM »

We need to tingle that topic a little.... :)

I'm all ears.....
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porthole

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Re: Cam tensioner..
« Reply #12 on: April 29, 2008, 04:56:37 PM »

I can think of more then one that can benefit too.
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Twolanerider

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Re: Cam tensioner..
« Reply #13 on: April 29, 2008, 05:51:30 PM »

We need to tingle that topic a little.... :)

I'm all ears.....

I can think of more then one that can benefit too.

Not a problem.  This is all "out there" somewhere.  But here it is again all in one place for easy munching.  A bolt on package that produces good numbers and runs well without any signs of crankyness.  With this I got good numbers (less important) and a great running/feeling/sounding bike that pulls like a teenage boy on a rope outside the girls' shower room (more important).

From Harley:
HTCC CNC Ported heads
50 MM SE throttle body and mated intake
SE oil pump and cam plate kit
their newest version of the SE adjustable pushrods
new set of lifters

From Axtell:
107" direct drop on cylinders (3 15/16" bore)
They've got a kit package that included the cylinders, pistons and work to the above cylinder heads to dial them in to the rest of the package.  An alternative is some work Dave Mackie can do to the heads to accomplish the same thing or better.

From Dave Mackie:
DM598 cams and gear drive kit

From GP Designs:
GP Designs Bearing Support for engines without a timken conversion in the bottom end

Exhaust:
D&D 2-1 Fatcats with quiet baffle.  Cheapest I found was here: http://www.automotivemachine.com/contact.htm

Breakdown above brings pieces together from the smallest number of vendors.  I collected parts over a bit of time and saved several hundreds of dollars on the heads and a few other pieces on eBay.  But you could score it all at one of the 20% off shops and still not do badly.  I also used a set of new SE cylinder studs and went to roller rockers.  Those wouldn't be absolute requirements to do the deed.  In fact I likely would not have gone to the expense of the roller rockers were it not for getting a set of TP rocker boxes and roller rockers for about $250 total.

I also have Feuling's oil pump, lifters and cam plate and a Zippers throttle body.  But those are basically distinctions without a difference to the end result.  They were already in the motor when the top end rebuild was done.  So there was no reason to remove them.  The SE variants should do as well or better.  Using them would mean that many fewer vendors in the mix.
« Last Edit: April 30, 2008, 10:09:40 AM by Twolanerider »
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SneakyPete

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Re: Cam tensioner..
« Reply #14 on: April 29, 2008, 08:19:31 PM »

Agree with everyone here and assume you have a 103.  One thing I would add from my experience, once you change cams, do headwork, etc., and cross that 100 hp mark, you need to consider the bottom end for long term durability.  If you go to gear drive and crank runout is excessive, it will make noise.  If you have excessive crank runout, you will wear out your oil pump (Feuling, HD or otherwise).  Check crank runout first before investing in any upgrades, then build your motor from the bottom up.  JMHO.
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