Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Talon]

I'm looking at a 95 upgrade to my RK this winter. So far I'm going with Cycle-Rama, I don't think I'll get the numbers below at 5200', but should run good! The TQ is what I really like, I'll be long gone before some of the big HP number bikes get off the light! 

[springer-]

Might not look bad to someone that sees/works on them on a daily basis but it sure makes me glad I don't have to worry about them anymore.

Neal glad you got them done you can now have peace of mind. Next time we do cams and gear drive though.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

To clarify, I wasn't suggesting they didn't need to be changed.  IMO, if you are in there for any reason and there is more than a few thousand miles on them, change them.  Having seen some come out in pieces and metal rubbing etc, those aren't in bad shape.

Did you get the inner cam bearings changed out to full compliment Torrington bearing while it was apart?

[Talon]

To clarify, I wasn't suggesting they didn't need to be changed.  IMO, if you are in there for any reason and there is more than a few thousand miles on them, change them.  Having seen some come out in pieces and metal rubbing etc, those aren't in bad shape.

Did you get the inner cam bearings changed out to full compliment Torrington bearing while it was apart?

I agree, I've seen pictures of some with 9,000 on them that look worse that that! It's a crap shoot, some last a long time others blowup with less than 10,000. I hope to go gear when I replace mine.

[Fired00d]

To clarify, I wasn't suggesting they didn't need to be changed.  IMO, if you are in there for any reason and there is more than a few thousand miles on them, change them.  Having seen some come out in pieces and metal rubbing etc, those aren't in bad shape.

Did you get the inner cam bearings changed out to full compliment Torrington bearing while it was apart?

Understood. I was just emphasizing that with gear drive it's no longer a worry.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[Sean M Cary]

I agree, I've seen pictures of some with 9,000 on them that look worse that that! It's a crap shoot, some last a long time others blowup with less than 10,000. I hope to go gear when I replace mine.

I just broke 12k and figure on this being a winter project...  SE bearing plate, new oil pump, new push rods and new gear driven cams. 

What sucks is that you cannot order the stuff you need until you check the crankshaft run out, so you have a built in delay from your tear down.

Sean

[Talon]

I just broke 12k and figure on this being a winter project...  SE bearing plate, new oil pump, new push rods and new gear driven cams. 

What sucks is that you cannot order the stuff you need until you check the crankshaft run out, so you have a built in delay from your tear down.

Sean

Yep, that's why it's a winter project for me!

[naitram]

To clarify, I wasn't suggesting they didn't need to be changed.  IMO, if you are in there for any reason and there is more than a few thousand miles on them, change them.  Having seen some come out in pieces and metal rubbing etc, those aren't in bad shape.

Did you get the inner cam bearings changed out to full compliment Torrington bearing while it was apart?

no just new h-d bearings

[CVOJOE]

Neal,
Definitely get the oil pump looked at while it's apart, to see if there was any serious scoring of the pump from tensioner materials floating around there. One very experienced MOCO service manager attributed the difference in the tensioner life to the difference in the chains (different vendors, etc.)

Putting in the cam plate, oil pump and lifters, etc. will increase your oil pressure greatly and I believe improve the cooling. Huge difference in mine after the changeout.

Joe

[spydglide]

Putting in the cam plate, oil pump and lifters, etc. will increase your oil pressure greatly and I believe improve the cooling. Huge difference in mine after the changeout.

Joe

Hey Joe, did you go back with the 'shim' or up-graded spring ?    spyder

[CVOJOE]

Hey Spyde,
Didn't need either the shim or spring, with the Delktron plate, it's taken care of.  Love seeing 20-25psi oil pressure at idle, peace of mind is priceless.
 
Cheers!
Joe

[spydglide]

Hey Spyde,
Didn't need either the shim or spring, with the Delktron plate, it's taken care of.  Love seeing 20-25psi oil pressure at idle, peace of mind is priceless.
 
Cheers!
Joe

Sounds like a 'up-grade' that my ol Huckleberry might need.  har!  spyder

[Talon]

Hey Joe, did you go back with the 'shim' or up-graded spring ?    spyder

Not positive, but with the SE billet plate and the newer pump I don't think you need a spring or shims. You'll get plenty of oil pressure.

[vagabond6542]

Hydraulic, solid or roller lifters - they are the interface between the cam and the push rods.

Tappets came about because early hydraulic lifters tended to leak down and cause a "tap" that sounded like solid lifters out of adjustment.

The obvious problem with hydraulics is that you can't adjust out the noise.

Many, many moons ago we used the term tappets quite frequently with customers who were complaining about engine noise, especially with the higher performance cars.

"they wouldn't call them tappets if they didn't tap"

Then we would try and convince them that it the valve train is tapping just a bit at least the valves aren't burning (big problem when leaded gas disappeared).

Are we explaining automotive or motorcycling on tappets and Hydraulics.
Working from automotive, solids lifters were adjusted from the rockers on top of the head via adjustable tappet.
It wasn't until the mid 70's most automotive engines got away from adjustable hydraulics. And yes they could be made to run quietly.
On our Harley's, the adjustability has been engineered out for simplicity and assembly sake.
The only way you can get a hydraulic to run quietly is to get it depressed to the point of mid travel of the lifter.
It will pump as it should and be quiet. If it is making tappet noise, it too loose.

Just my .02

[porthole]

Are we explaining automotive or motorcycling on tappets and Hydraulics.
Working from automotive, solids lifters were adjusted from the rockers on top of the head via adjustable tappet.
It wasn't until the mid 70's most automotive engines got away from adjustable hydraulics. And yes they could be made to run quietly.
On our Harley's, the adjustability has been engineered out for simplicity and assembly sake.
The only way you can get a hydraulic to run quietly is to get it depressed to the point of mid travel of the lifter.
It will pump as it should and be quiet. If it is making tappet noise, it too loose.

Just my .02

George - it was a generic answer to a generic question, Neal asked if lifters and tappets were the same thing. I think you may find old timers refer to them as tappets and the rest of us refer to them as lifters.

[vagabond6542]

George - it was a generic answer to a generic question, Neal asked if lifters and tappets were the same thing. I think you may find old timers refer to them as tappets and the rest of us refer to them as lifters.

To be real, tappets is one element, and lifters are a different element.
And if you want to get technical, there are solid lifters and hydralic lifters.
With solids, you had to have an adjustable tappets to set the hot or cold spacing on the valves.
To confuse these would not be too cool.