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[Dr. Evil]

DJW, just a point you should be aware of.  A stroker will not get anywhere near 100k, I expect to do upper end by 50k.  The longer stroke gets sloppy after a while and creates wear on the cylinder walls, loss of compression, and a need for new rings and pistons.
This is at least the most common problem on strokers that the custom shops build.

Striker, My SEEG is just my weekend bike now... and at the rate I'm racking up miles, I'll be 100 before I need the upper end done.  Thanks though  [smiley=beerchug.gif]

[shovelhead71]

Dr. Evil - I have personally viewed the lay on the side - ride in the box and TOAST a new clutch and some other eye opening manuvers some of the officers perform - filling to the top won;t matter with you guys - they don;t last that long [smiley=huepfenjump3.gif] [smiley=huepfenjump3.gif] [smiley=huepfenjump3.gif]

[nidan]

I've run Syn3 in all 3 holes for all of the Harley's in the family (4) never had a problem .
I've heard great things about Amsoil and recently Mobil 1 . Mobil 1 has a great track record.

[MAVERICK]

I've run Syn3 in all 3 holes for all of the Harley's in the family (4) never had a problem .
I've heard great things about Amsoil and recently Mobil 1 . Mobil 1 has a great track record.

I posted this response in another thread about synthetic oils
I use jet engines as the prime mover to rotate the generator in our equipment. My company recommends Mobil Jet Oil which has been the standard synthetic for over 25 years.In the industry that I work in cleanleness is next to godleness. On the equipment I install I must flush all the lube oil systems and then have oil samples sent out for anaylasis. All the results have to be spot on before I sign off the flushes. We flush the oil through 100 mesh screen stratigically postioned in the hoses for the big stuff and use the system filters which are 10 micron to remove the small particles. One of the many tests that is run is particulate count. You will never remove all the debris in the oil. Some wear is normal and its inevietable. Believe me chit happens and things break no matter whos oil you are runnin in your engine. I see it all the time.
About 10 years ago I ran a 250 hp turbo charged GS 1150 suzuki on the street. It would literally cook the engine oil the bike ran so hot. I would change the oil every 1500 miles. I was using Royal purple oil because that was the hot product at the time.
As far as those oil tests go from the thread thats one oil analyasis and I beleive the photo of the particles was magnified 50X. So dont freak out from what you see from one test. I truly beleive in attention to details and there are lots of good oils out there with a bunch of marketing too go along with them. How much better is one oil over another who really knows I am not a chemist or petroleum engineer. All the manufactures are in direct competion with one another and try to promote their product by saying that theres is superior to other brands in some way shape form or fashion so the consumer will buy it. Choose your weapons mate! Brand X Y Z ?

[smiley=oops.gif] [smiley=bigok.gif] [smiley=confused5.gif] [smiley=shocked2.gif]

[shovelhead71]

VERY GOOD MAVERICK - oil anylsis will show what type of metal if any are being deterioated - so from that metal you can diagnois where in the engine the wear is occuring more rapidly. 1st and 2nd samples you will see most likely high percentages due to "break in"
another good point maverick made is that "all oils are not created equal in quality" meaning the additive packages that fight acids - metal shearing - viscosity - residue - remember there is no drain hole in the bottom of your engine cases - some oil produce residue and there it will lay. in the bottom of the cases - you have no way to remove it, unless you split the cases. and as in an Indiana Movie the knight said "CHOOSE WISELY"

[shovelhead71]

oh yeah - for what its worth - the customer service on-line survey that I do every month for an independant co. Apr survey was strictly about syn3 lubricant - it really does not give an opportunity for your opinion to add any additional information - its just click the bock and answer their questions with their requested responses - sometimes I wish I had an opportunity to add a tid bit or two - gives no concept of what they are looking for either - it is like this thread that is now active - would like the opportunity to share given suggestions by our group - even as a copy/paste to the survey when the chance was available - I also have their e-mail so I could sent seperate suggestions pertaining to each given survey

[Piper]

Oil companies cannot make false claims about their oils any more than they can make stories up about the octane in their fuel.
An octane rating to gasoline is similar to an API rating for oil, which means if 2 different brands of oil have the same API rating, they are the same oil.
The kicker is that these identical oils can vary in price by 300% or more depending on the brand and amount of advertising.
Bottom line, check and compare API ratings before you spend your $$.
This article has a full explanation:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/API_ratings.pdf

Cheers
Piper

[spydglide]

Well Piper, if I'm reading you right, we should be just as well off to go purchase the cheapest oil bearing the starburst seal of approval for our air-cooled mc motors that run at extreme temps as pay the difference for the more expensive syn. oils?    spyder

[110tHunDer]

 
What's with diggin' up all these old threads?!?

[spydglide]

What's with diggin' up all these old threads?!?

some just won't die gracefully.  har!  spyder

[Piper]

What's with diggin' up all these old threads?!?

103tHunDer, Please tell us how to find these old threads so we don't waste bandwidth. Could you post this old thread as your example search.
Thanks
Piper

[Piper]

Well Piper, if I'm reading you right, we should be just as well off to go purchase the cheapest oil bearing the starburst seal of approval for our air-cooled mc motors that run at extreme temps as pay the difference for the more expensive syn. oils?    spyder

HD syn3 is only 25% synthetic, if it was 100% syn, the rings would never seat.  I would suggest you buy the syn oil, after break in, but compare the starburst on each brand before you buck up.

[spydglide]

HD syn3 is only 25% synthetic, if it was 100% syn, the rings would never seat.  I would suggest you buy the syn oil, after break in, but compare the starburst on each brand before you buck up.

Did you actually find this in print somewhere?  I've heard all kinds of things/percentages/etc., but never anything definite.  spyder

[Piper]

Did you actually find this in print somewhere?  I've heard all kinds of things/percentages/etc., but never anything definite.  spyder

Spyder, I agree, I have read lots, but nothing that would stand up in court. This Amsoil article could be somewhat biased, but it does make sense.
Do you think that rings would seat with 100% synthetic oil ?
I have doubts myself.
Please give me your thoughts on this somewhat biased article..........

http://www.synthetic-oil-tech.com/d.cgi/1124190/why_harley_owners_choose_amsoil.htm