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[efrbc1]

Read the previous posts regarding clutch adjustment with the hydraulic system ('05 SEEG).  Just to be sure I understand, there is NO adjustment possible because of the hydraulic system.  I know with the cable you have to loosen the cable to provide slack in the actuating system for proper adjustment at the pressure plate.  As this is not possible with the hydraulic system it is not possible to get the necessary slack in the actuating system to do any adjustment at the pressure plate (screw and lock nut).

Correct??

Thanks

Chris

[hd-dude]

Correct, there is no adjustment one the hydro clutches. You can bleed the system out, this sometimes get you a better "feel"

[efrbc1]

Thanks.  "Feels" good now, just wanted to take care of any maintenance issues.  Still working on installing the lights (LED) I got from you.  Too damn hot here in FL to do much work.  Maybe the Tropical Storm / Hurricane will cool things off a bit..............

Chris

[skiindean]

How do you bleed the hydraulic clutch to get the air out. My clutch used to grab quicker, almost as soon as I started to release...now it's closer to 1/3 to halfway out and I did like it better when it grabbed almost immediatly. Has it just worn in...15 K, 1 year of riding. Will bleeding bring it back to factory feel ?
Dean 

[AXIL]

dean,   check the fluid in the reservoir,when the clutch wears the fluid is pushed back up to the reservoir and it
mite be over filled.  the fluid must be lower the round boss. you'll see it when the cover is off.  axil

[grc]

How do you bleed the hydraulic clutch to get the air out. My clutch used to grab quicker, almost as soon as I started to release...now it's closer to 1/3 to halfway out and I did like it better when it grabbed almost immediatly. Has it just worn in...15 K, 1 year of riding. Will bleeding bring it back to factory feel ?
Dean 

Dean, you're the first person I remember posting that actually liked the hydraulic clutch "feel" as delivered.  The rest of us complained about the drag / incomplete release and the instant on/off sensitivity with no free play at the grip.  The fix for that problem was to make certain all the air was bled out of the system, along with some miles to wear the high spots off the clutch plates.  Sounds like yours has "worn in" now.  As Axil mentioned, check the fluid level just to be certain it isn't overfilled, but you will most likely just have to accept that once broken in the clutch no longer releases right at the grip.  In my experience, most will start to engage at 1/2 to 3/4 inch from the grip, depending on temperature.

Jerry

[skiindean]

Yup, 1/2 to 3/4 is about right...I thought maybe I screwed something up playing around with a few burnouts...I'll get used to it and then that will become the normal feel for me.  So just take off the clutch cover on the left handlebar and if it has too much oil in it then take some out ?? What will that do? More than likely everything is fine, having only been riding for 2 1/2 years, never being around bikes my whole life and with a 1 year old Harley...there's just a whole lot that I don't know or recognize. This site and everyone's help continue to be very educational to me. Thanks.  Dean

[Twolanerider]

Yup, 1/2 to 3/4 is about right...I thought maybe I screwed something up playing around with a few burnouts...I'll get used to it and then that will become the normal feel for me.  So just take off the clutch cover on the left handlebar and if it has too much oil in it then take some out ?? What will that do? More than likely everything is fine, having only been riding for 2 1/2 years, never being around bikes my whole life and with a 1 year old Harley...there's just a whole lot that I don't know or recognize. This site and everyone's help continue to be very educational to me. Thanks.  Dean

No.  Definitely not.  Do not remove fluid from the reservoir to attempt to adjust the clutch feel.  There is no "adjustment" of any kind.  Only bleeding air out of the system.

Think of bleeding the clutch hydraulic system exactly as bleeding brakes.  You are pushing any trapped air out using the fluid.

Turn the wheel full right.  Take off the reservoir cap.  Go around to the right side and find the bleeder on the transmission side cover.  Put a line on that bleeder that drops in to a partially filled water bottle or goes to a dedicated bleeder catch can with a one-way valve in it.  Then go back to the handlebars and slowly pump the clutch lever to push fluid and (you hope) air through the system. 

Make sure you don't pump it dry.  Keep fluid in the reservoir as you pump.  Run the reservoir too low and you'll flood the system with air.

[sadunbar]

No.  Definitely not.  Do not remove fluid from the reservoir to attempt to adjust the clutch feel.  There is no "adjustment" of any kind.  Only bleeding air out of the system.

Think of bleeding the clutch hydraulic system exactly as bleeding brakes.  You are pushing any trapped air out using the fluid.

Turn the wheel full right.  Take off the reservoir cap.  Go around to the right side and find the bleeder on the transmission side cover.  Put a line on that bleeder that drops in to a partially filled water bottle or goes to a dedicated bleeder catch can with a one-way valve in it.  Then go back to the handlebars and slowly pump the clutch lever to push fluid and (you hope) air through the system. 

Make sure you don't pump it dry.  Keep fluid in the reservoir as you pump.  Run the reservoir too low and you'll flood the system with air.

Don - A small edit for the inexperienced (future expert) backyard mechanic...  partially fill the water bottle with brake fluid

[Hoist!]

Don - A small edit for the inexperienced (future expert) backyard mechanic...  partially fill the water bottle with brake fluid

HeHe!!! Yeah, not water! And why a water bottle? Any glass container, where you can see the bubbles stop, will do!

Hoist!

[Twolanerider]

Don - A small edit for the inexperienced (future expert) backyard mechanic...  partially fill the water bottle with brake fluid

To be safest.  Definitely.  Though I never do.  If the line is more than a foot or so long it'll never backup that far.  And using dissimilar fluids gives a far better visual for what you're pumping.

I use a one-way valve in the line anyway. Shortly after the bleeder.  So it's never an issue.  Speed Bleeders are also an option if someone wants to spend the money.

If someone is using a straight line in to fluid I'd still suggest having a helper open and close the bleeder as you pump the brakes or clutch too.  Not because it's absolutely necessary but because it'll all get done far more quickly than it would with the push and pull you get operating the hydraulics by oneself.

[Twolanerider]

HeHe!!! Yeah, not water! And why a water bottle? Any glass container, where you can see the bubbles stop, will do!

Hoist!

Why a water bottle?  Because a Scotch bottle is a lot more expensive!

[Hoist!]

Why a water bottle?  Because a Scotch bottle is a lot more expensive!

HeHe!!! Not an empty one! You have more fun emptying the scotch bottle, than the water bottle, anyday!!!

Hoist!

[Screamin]

HeHe!!! Not an empty one! You have more fun emptying the scotch bottle, than the water bottle, anyday!!!

Hoist!

That's a fact. Not gonna screw w/ my brakes, or much else, after draining a bottle of scotch.

[Hoist!]

That's a fact. Not gonna screw w/ my brakes, or much else, after draining a bottle of scotch.

No rules on WHEN ya empty that Scotch bottle Jim! Anytime ya like, and enjoy it!

Hoist!