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[Steve Cole]

You need to be careful when buying some of the old SERT units as the software might be outdated and not work with your bike. The old SERT is nothing like the new SESPT. The SERT nor the SESPT will allow you to download a calibration from the bike prior to using a canned calibration to start with. The only product that does this function is TTS Mastertune. It also allows you to tune more parts of the calibration then any other tuning product and also allows for the Speedometer to be calibrated.

[Jbbrown73]

eddfive has nailed it down. IMO..

As long as you go through the warm up steps with a new motor before cranking it to 6+ grand you should be OK.

There is also debate about breaking in a new motor and to what effect it has on the rings. I'm old school. Start it, warm it up and haul butt. When breaking in hard the rings get a chance with the higher rpms to seat 360* properly by mushrooming to the cylinder walls while low rpm will soft seat them and take longer.

For what it's worth I'll post this and you all can tell me your thoughts.  A guy that is an old friend of my dad's is a huge gear head.  He has built many many engines over 50+ years for street and racing.  He said the way he always broke in his engines is take them for a nice long drive 200-300 miles or so, on 2 lane roads, varying speed and so on.  Do the trip all at once, don't shut it down.  Then at the other end, shut it down and allow to completely cool down, 12 hours minimum.  Then get on the interstate and come back on the floor.  Give it hell all the way home as fast as you can get away with it.  When back, it's broke in and ready.

[Steve Cole]

Engine break in procedures should always be done based on the motor build and only the engine builder knows what they've done. If you set the clearances up on the tight side as you would for an engine looking for long life and not max power output breaking it in hard would most likely break the engine as things would tend to over heat internally and seize parts to one another. Now a motor set up loose for racing and max power output but shorter overall life, it can be run soft and easy until fully warmed up then go beat the hell out of it just fine. So be very careful to listen to anyone but your engine builder.

[HOGMIKE]

If you think about ALL the new bikes. At York, they all come off the line, go into the dyno cell, fuel line hooked up, computer hooked up, run up to temp, they do a full run up and down through the gears to about 85mph reading in 6th. It's the same room(s) they use for the Tri-Glide also, except they don't have the back half on, just a little (what looks like compact spare) tire to be able to push them around, and hook them up to the rollers. Anyone taking the York tour will see what I mean. It would seem to me that the bike is "good to go" without having to worry too much about break in. Moderation in your riding helps! Besides, if you blow it up, don't you have a warranty??? LOL
I don't baby my bikes, either stock or built, and have never had a real problem and get high mileage on most motors (big ones don't seem to last as long....Hmmmm...wonder why??) JMHO

[AXIL]

  please note , the"dyno cell" is a speedo "room" wear thay run thru the gears and check the tach and speedo and
never get up to temp.  (most bikes at set up have less than one mile on them.) then thay get sent to the area wear
the f--k ups get fixed , some times, then packed and shipped. and have a nice day.    axil