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Author Topic: Why to go to gear drive cams?  (Read 10753 times)

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Spook_103

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Re: Why to go to gear drive cams?
« Reply #30 on: September 01, 2005, 03:34:01 PM »

Do NOT use the Andrews TW50 with the 103.  It will kill your horsepower and torque.  Did that to a 103 SERK and ended up with 95/95 after much dyno tuning.  The thing was a pig.  Just my opinion.  Spook.
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syclone

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Re: Why to go to gear drive cams?
« Reply #31 on: September 01, 2005, 03:50:24 PM »

thats cause there's not enough compression for even the 50 let alone the tw55.
The Wood tw5g #s will work but i wont use it cause it's noisy.  tough choice to make
if you dont want to pull the heads to bump the compression.  The 26g is probably the best choice for a bolt in,  but remember big motors will shrink cams.  Now with 10.0:1 comp. , I would jump all over the 37g.

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Re: Why to go to gear drive cams?
« Reply #32 on: September 01, 2005, 04:28:16 PM »

Harleybill, with all due respect, I would ask the opinion of another tech. All three of the cams he mentioned to you need comps of 10 or better. Lots of guys have tried the wild thing cams over on HTT, and most have complained about a loss of low end tq, except the ones that used the Kuryakyan hi-comp or equal pistons of head work to bump the comp.  I'm running a bagger with a 10.2:1   106 w/Andrews55Gs, and it has tons of low end torque, but it wouldn't at 9.0:1   JMHO   [smiley=nixweiss.gif]
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HARLEYBILL

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Re: Why to go to gear drive cams?
« Reply #33 on: September 01, 2005, 05:13:44 PM »

Yipes! Now what?
From what I can gather here is no one yet has logged on who knows the right combo for stock motor with gear drive cam. I appreciate the comments on the high comp heads & pistons but I'm not interested in that route. Would appreciate any available info.
I can see the advice already-"stick with what you got til it breaks". [smiley=nixweiss.gif]
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hd-dude

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Re: Why to go to gear drive cams?
« Reply #34 on: September 01, 2005, 06:18:50 PM »

Quote
Yipes! Now what?

I can see the advice already-"stick with what you got til it breaks". [smiley=nixweiss.gif]


Don't do that cause when it goes it will likely take out more parts with it!!
After looking into this what I have found is that the replacement cams for an otherwise stock 103 motor should have a lift of no more than about .570 and a duration no longer than 250 degrees. The choices then seem to be the Andrews 26G or 37G, S&S 570, or the wood TW5G. Some have reported that the Woods makes the most noise but is better because it has a high lift with a short duration. The most popular choice has been the 37G.

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Re: Why to go to gear drive cams?
« Reply #35 on: September 01, 2005, 07:42:17 PM »

Talked to Brad (at Jim's suggestion) at Freedom Cycles awhile ago.  He said that he's working with Andrews on a cam right now, for the stock 103 (no head work, no motor work.....other than A/C, Race Tuner or Power Commander and exhaust) that should be ready in a couple weeks.  Told him that I'd talk with him then or during Street Vibrations, about it.
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Re: Why to go to gear drive cams?
« Reply #36 on: September 01, 2005, 10:10:07 PM »

I put a set of Andrews 21's in my 2004 and absolutley love them. It took the cranking pressure from 150 to 190 without pulling heads. I found a map for the PC that let's it run great and pull 40+mpg. Never had it dynoed and probably wont. Everyone one I talked to wanted me to put in huge cams. I'm glad I went this way. It sure can pass a car or climb steep grades. I can shift the bike @ 2000rpm (solo) without lugging it at all.
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Re: Why to go to gear drive cams?
« Reply #37 on: September 01, 2005, 10:12:50 PM »

Quote
I put a set of Andrews 21's in my 2004 and absolutley love them. It took the cranking pressure from 150 to 190 without pulling heads. I found a map for the PC that let's it run great and pull 40+mpg. Never had it dynoed and probably wont. Everyone one I talked to wanted me to put in huge cams. I'm glad I went this way. It sure can pass a car or climb steep grades. I can shift the bike @ 2000rpm (solo) without lugging it at all.



What map?  Can you post it somewhere?
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kbiforce

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Re: Why to go to gear drive cams?
« Reply #38 on: September 01, 2005, 10:32:06 PM »

m807-098. I have one kerker baffle on the right and one SE slip on sitting on the left. So that why i went with the this one. The settings are now at baseline. I fooled around with the low and mid and baseline seems to be the best. If anything it's probably a tad lean. No popping from the exhaust.
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Re: Why to go to gear drive cams?
« Reply #39 on: September 03, 2005, 08:20:01 AM »

Quote
Here's one of the pump drives.

This really sucks for a bike with only 15k on it! This is going to cost about $450.00 for a new pump assembly.


HD
Going with an other then stock oil pump too?
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Re: Why to go to gear drive cams?
« Reply #40 on: September 03, 2005, 11:14:03 AM »

Quote

HD
Going with an other then stock oil pump too?


No, Just the stock assembly. This motor is just an 88" so no need to upgrade the oil pump.

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Re: Why to go to gear drive cams?
« Reply #41 on: September 03, 2005, 11:46:08 AM »

Quote

HD
Going with an other then stock oil pump too?



Jim (hd-dude) and I just talked about this issue on the phone yesterday.  On the 103" motor, if you build it up at all (head work, cams, etc.) personally, I'd consider the Fueling Rivera oil pump.  JMHO
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Re: Why to go to gear drive cams?
« Reply #42 on: September 03, 2005, 02:24:36 PM »

Quote
I'd consider the Fueling Rivera oil pump.
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sefatboyscott

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Re: Why to go to gear drive cams?
« Reply #43 on: September 22, 2005, 04:45:56 PM »

Quote

Good comeback, but it would've been better if you'd weaved the fact that you found it necessary to remove your heel shifter in there somehow.


Well the moco knew the cvo fatboy riders had big feet, they didn't even bother putting a heel shifter on it!
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Re: Why to go to gear drive cams?
« Reply #44 on: October 07, 2005, 10:18:01 AM »

My shoe was showing that and WORSE @ 7,500. I rode to Chicago from San Jose, CA right after replacing this. I arrived 2,000 miles later only to discover that the new shoe, and drive was "nearly disentegrated; don't know how you made it this far in that condition". I had to pay air freight, etc to get back on the road (100th party @ Milwaukee)
Got home, and when I replaced to S&S .625 gear driven cams; S.E. HTCC/CNC Ported heads, and etc, etc. All work done by dealers. that was @ 15K. Currently @ 28K w/o ANY form of problem. Somebody asked if that was some of Dragonfly's work? Yes sir it surely is. I spent the tiny bit extra, and had the inner piece painted and PINSTRIPED to boot! I believe that I have my 103 c.i. at her best. We could all arguably find another 5-7 HP/TQ, but NO MORE $'s... [smiley=banana.gif]
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