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[Gecko]

My dealer has found a new way of dealing with it - they just ignore anything I say about engine noises.  If I ask what they did about something they say, "nothing". 

[grc]

My dealer has found a new way of dealing with it - they just ignore anything I say about engine noises.  If I ask what they did about something they say, "nothing". 

Unfortunately, with some of the places I've been in, doing nothing would be a big improvement.  Hard to screw anything else up while doing "nothing", unlike what happens when they actually try to do "something".

Jerry

[grc]

I have a 120" build with 4 1/8" bore and 4 1/2" stroke that doesn't have that rattle and the skirts are shorter than those on the 110". Just saying that the 110" doesn't have to slap because of skirt length.

Ab-so-lutely!!!  The entire skirt length issue is just one more of the many bogus answers floated by H-D and their minions when they either don't know the real answer, or don't want to spend the money to fix the real problem.  Don't forget, until recently the official word from the MoCo was "problem, we don't know about no steenkin' problem" when queried about things like oil leaks on the 110. 

Anybody pulled their pushrods after plenty of miles and looked closely at them for contact on the sides?  Just wondering after reading the blurb in the catalog for the new tapered SE pushrods if perhaps the MoCo already knows the cause but as in the case of the compensator instead of correcting the problem in production they just came up with another way for the customer to pay for his own fix.

" SCREAMIN’ EAGLE® PREMIUM TAPERED
QUICK-INSTALL ADJUSTABLE PUSHRODS
These premium pushrods are tapered for enhanced clearance
at the cylinder head, allowing the use of higher lift
cams. "

Jerry

[t rider]

My dealer installed the Tapered Adjustable Pushrods in my 09 recently and I still have the rattle...

[gremlush]

I have a 2007 CVO Springer {110"} and it is the quietest H-D  I have ever owned. Crank run-out was  less than .001 ,maybe just lucky. 7500+ miles

[TN]

i think i chased this recently. would correct bore size for pistons cure this?
i've heard varying things about kits off the shelf. mine was a hd 103.

i did get new s&s lifters, along with tapered pushrods. 




TN

[DavidG]

I had an 07 SE Springer that I traded in on an 07 SE RK. The first thing I noticed on the RK was the top end noise. I never noticed it on my Springer but my Big Radius pipes on the side may have masked it. I finally pulled the rocker housings and both intake springs had been hitting. I put it back together (after grinding the housing) and still had the same noise, more prominent 2000-3000RPM. So I took it to my local dealer and had them replace the older rocker housings with the new. While it was down they also ported and polished the heads since I'll soon be changing cams, and installed the SE adjustable pushrods. They put it back together and noticed a new noise. They pulled it back down and found the rear piston was 0.003" undersized They replaced the rear piston, rings, and honed the cylinder. They also recommended replacing the lifters so I did. They put it all back together and it still made the same valve train clatter. So they said some engines just make more noise than others....No surprise there. What's amazing is last night I changed the oil (Syn3) and replaced it with M1 VTwin. The engine still makes more noise than I like but it did quiet down considerably! Today I took it to an indy shop to have them listen. In their opinion they said mine was quieter than some of the 88s they had in the shop. So I guess what many say is right on, the engines do make noise. I just hate that sewing machine sound when I ride with my windshield. Maybe I'll install a gear drive when I change the cams (assuming runout is OK) to try to drown the valve noise.

[gremlush]

I have been  areospace machinist -teacher {machine shop} all of my life and I will tell you 1/2 thousand { .0005} will make a difference from one motor making noise and the other one not. When I used to bore and hone cyl. I would always set them up on the 'tight' side. Then set the motor up 'rich' to keep it cool for the 1st 500 miles then go to 13.0  -13.5 - 1 at WOT and no problems. Dewey