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Author Topic: Pics of my new Handy lift  (Read 43586 times)

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rheiner

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #60 on: February 26, 2009, 11:55:04 PM »

Randall,

Just curious, where did you take the drain to?

I simply have it draining into 7 inches of gravel I used as base under the concrete. The initial hole that I cut out was 104 inches by 44 inches, so that's how much of a drainfield with gravel that I have. It will drain an awful lot of water if I really needed it to. The purpose of the drain is to have a place for water to go if I spill some when cleaning my wheels or something along those lines. I have no intention of washing my bike in my garage with a full rinse. That isn't what motorcycle lifts are made for anyway. But I figured it's better to have a drain like mine than no drain and letting the lift pan or the steel support beams under the lift sit in water until it evaporates.

Randall
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porthole

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #61 on: February 27, 2009, 02:57:49 AM »

Any concerns about the amount of moisture that will leech out of the concrete while it cures?
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LarryB

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #62 on: February 27, 2009, 05:03:17 AM »

Any concerns about the amount of moisture that will leech out of the concrete while it cures?
exactly, I see No vapor barrier. not only the leeching, but when a crack develops, and it will, moisture will get through it.
You could coat it after 30 days with a Soloxon type product, another one called weather tite. works well. but not as good as 4mil plastic, but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
it's easy from here :builder2:
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rheiner

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #63 on: February 27, 2009, 10:14:53 AM »

exactly, I see No vapor barrier. not only the leeching, but when a crack develops, and it will, moisture will get through it.
You could coat it after 30 days with a Soloxon type product, another one called weather tite. works well. but not as good as 4mil plastic, but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
it's easy from here :builder2:

I'm not worried about my base cracking. It is 6 bag concrete, 7 inches thick that was poured on compacted gravel, mixed right on the spot and immediately dumped in the hole. The slab is full of rebar and there will be even more in the side walls and all the rebar (walls and lift slab) will be tied to the existing floor (see pics of pre-drilled holes in the existing 6 inch slab).

Randall
« Last Edit: March 06, 2009, 01:17:45 PM by rheiner »
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sportygordy

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #64 on: February 27, 2009, 10:34:18 AM »

I simply have it draining into 7 inches of gravel I used as base under the concrete. The initial hole that I cut out was 104 inches by 44 inches, so that's how much of a drainfield with gravel that I have. It will drain an awful lot of water if I really needed it to. The purpose of the drain is to have a place for water to go if I spill some when cleaning my wheels or something along those lines. I have no intention of washing my bike in my garage with a full rinse. That isn't what motorcycle lifts are made for anyway. But I figured it's better to have a drain like mine than no drain and letting the lift pan or the steel support beams under the lift sit in water until it evaporates.

Randall
Randall
I was just curious cause i didn't see a drain system installed while following your install pictures. The gravel 'capture pit' you referenced too seems like it should do the job for 'small' amounts of water to leach out. I would be carefull though, you don't want to get to much water in your leach pit at any given time. As far as other comments made regarding a vapor barrier under your lift, I certainly would not worry about it, provided you keep water drainage at a minimum.  You might experience some cracking but it wont effect the overall strength and support for your lift. This is a very small area, not the whole garage - so no concern. However, If you drain a 'lot' of water in the bit then vapor could dispel throughout your total garage floor causing problems suggested by other post. I think the key is you keep water drainage at a minimum and you should have no problems and just keep don't what your doing,, It looks good and i appreciate your picture guided post.  :2vrolijk_21:
« Last Edit: February 27, 2009, 10:44:22 AM by sportygordy »
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LarryB

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #65 on: February 27, 2009, 03:20:42 PM »

Randall,
I certainly did not intend for this to get into a discussion about the principles and characteristics of concrete, but here goes. Concrete in itself is a very stable platform for many construction projects and has been for many many years. We all assume that it is a static material and once hard, will remain so. The fact is that when concrete is poured, it can move as much as 1" in 100ft, and so on, 1/2 " 50ft. That is why we, in the business, cut relief joints in it to control this, it's what we call a Control joint. The majority of the time, when concrete cracks, it is an upward crack, not downward. When steel is introduced, this strengthens it yes, but does not stop it from cracking. This does not mean there is any structural integrity loss. We use the phrase, if you want concrete not to crack, then don't pour it. Many other factors come into play, temps, moisture, compaction of base, mix, and the time between mixing and installing, generally, 1 hour is max, after that it becomes HOT and can cause several other things.
So, in summation of this, and adding all you have done, you're good to go. High Strength mix, + re-bar and the depth you poured, you should have no issues. as far as cracking, no guaranty that it won't.
The vapor barrier thing is a separate issue. this is governed by the local building code. Some demand it , some expect it, and some give a chit. Being that this is a garage, it should not be an issue but since you dug down much further than the slab, you have created "the lowest spot" in the garage, sort of a cistern effect since you filled it with gravel. Is it going to be a problem, I highly doubt it. If you are going to drain some water into a pit of sorts, I would give it someway to ventilate so as to prohibit mold spores from forming. A simple PVC pipe open to the atmosphere is sufficient, no more than 3/4 in pipe.
I don't know your soil conditions and rainfall but you mentioned sand and rock, both of which holds moisture. I see looking at the drain setup, you have accomplished the Venting issue.

once again I did not intend on being an alarmist here, but it is my nature and what I earn my living doing.
Just want the best for my CVO bros.
And, this is not a $5mil project, but a small garage slab rework. This is going to hold your baby.

APPROVED
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rheiner

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #66 on: February 27, 2009, 09:03:59 PM »

Any concerns about the amount of moisture that will leech out of the concrete while it cures?

I have no concerns. If this were your set up, would you be concerned and worried about it?

Randall
« Last Edit: February 27, 2009, 09:09:15 PM by rheiner »
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porthole

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #67 on: February 27, 2009, 11:24:51 PM »

I have no concerns. If this were your set up, would you be concerned and worried about it?

Randall

Only during the first month as it cures.
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rheiner

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #68 on: February 28, 2009, 12:21:52 AM »

Only during the first month as it cures.

So Duane, are you suggesting I not use it for a month 'til it cures or something else?

Randall
« Last Edit: February 28, 2009, 11:16:57 AM by rheiner »
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LarryB

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #69 on: February 28, 2009, 06:11:42 AM »

So Duane, are you suggesting I not use it for a month 'till it cures or something else?

Randall
I would suggest that
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MrFeexit

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #70 on: February 28, 2009, 08:07:53 AM »

You don't need to not use it until it cures completely. But if you can keep even a small fan blowing around down low to keep the air moving that will help tremendously. The concrete will keep moving moisture for weeks...even months. when not in use leave your lift up a bit so air can move under neath. You will be fine. Trust me I'm a builder... ;D No, for real...I am....
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LarryB

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #71 on: February 28, 2009, 10:56:57 AM »

If you spray it down with H20 couple times a day it will cure harder.
this is a quote from the Portland Cement Association
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hogasm

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #72 on: February 28, 2009, 10:58:46 AM »

. Trust me I'm a builder... ;D No, for real...I am....

If memory serves me correctly...the last words spoken by the builder of the Teton Dam right before it collapsed :coolblue:

just pokin fun :huepfenjump3:

The concrete will continue to cure for years. Just to be on the safe side I would not use it for about a week and be careful around the edges.


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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #73 on: February 28, 2009, 11:00:05 AM »

If you spray it down with H20 couple times a day it will cure harder.
this is a quote from the Portland Cement Association

We would completely submerge the concrete under water when we pored large floors.
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sportygordy

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #74 on: February 28, 2009, 11:03:54 AM »

I would suggest that

If it were me building this, i would be using that lift within two days after completing the pour, maybe a week at the most, but i wouldn't wait that long. Concrete sets 90% of its strength within 24 hours. It takes months for the remaining 10% to cure. Your project is very small, and the weight that you will load in this area is nothing. If you were going to place several tons over this area,, I might start getting concerned and i might wait the whole 2 weeks. You are good to go   :2vrolijk_21: :2vrolijk_21: :2vrolijk_21: :2vrolijk_21: :2vrolijk_21:Hurry up and load that bike on so we can see the final..  :bananarock:
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