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Author Topic: Pics of my new Handy lift  (Read 43605 times)

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LarryB

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #75 on: February 28, 2009, 11:06:58 AM »

Yep, in townhouse slabs we would tap the hydrant
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rheiner

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #76 on: February 28, 2009, 11:14:33 AM »

I've been putting water on it a few times a day as my installers told me to do. They'll be back in 3 days to finish all their work. I was going to post some pictures of my fabricated steel frame that the lift will sit on but I was on the phone too long yesterday afternoon talking to someone about HID lighting for my passing lamps (CUSE4) and by time I was done with that call the fabrication business closed for the weekend.

Randall
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porthole

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #77 on: February 28, 2009, 10:08:27 PM »

So Duane, are you suggesting I not use it for a month 'til it cures or something else?

Randall

Probably what I would do.

And I wouldn't use the fan idea, defeats the purpose of the cure time I would think.
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MrFeexit

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #78 on: March 01, 2009, 10:08:12 AM »

After the initial cure...24 to 48 hrs, you can't really affect the cure with air currents. All the fan is doing is to dissipate the moisture escaping and not allow it to settle on, or condense on any equipment stored in the vicinity it's a closed area and thats a lot of moisture your doing more for that enviroment than the concrete itself...Been doing this a long time....25 plus years in construction...Short of building a nuclear bunker the strength won't be an issue, as someone stated a bit earlier most of your cure is accomplished within 48 hrs so your strength is going to be there. If we waited the amount of time many of you are suggesting most building projects would never get completed. We pour and 48 hrs later we build. Yes it's true concrete will continue to cure for years...try breaking up 40 year old concrete...but after 48 hrs...you're good...especially with the small area under consideration here.


Here is the Architectural firm I used to work at


http://www.revarch.com/pages/Pages/pages/about%20menu.htm


And here is the web site of a guy that used to work for me and who I now sub out all my concrete work.

http://www.alchemyconcrete.com/home.nxg

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rheiner

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #79 on: March 01, 2009, 10:14:36 AM »

After the initial cure...24 to 48 hrs, you can't really affect the cure with air currents. All the fan is doing is to dissipate the moisture escaping and not allow it to settle on, or condense on any equipment stored in the vicinity it's a closed area and thats a lot of moisture your doing more for that enviroment than the concrete itself...Been doing this a long time....25 plus years in construction...Short of building a nuclear bunker the strength won't be an issue, as someone stated a bit earlier most of your cure is accomplished within 48 hrs so your strength is going to be there. If we waited the amount of time many of you are suggesting most building projects would never get completed. We pour and 48 hrs later we build. Yes it's true concrete will continue to cure for years...try breaking up 40 year old concrete...but after 48 hrs...you're good...especially with the small area under consideration here.


Here is the Architectural firm I used to work at


http://www.revarch.com/pages/Pages/pages/about%20menu.htm


And here is the web site of a guy that used to work for me and who I now sub out all my concrete work.

http://www.alchemyconcrete.com/home.nxg



MrFeexit, thanks for the info. Ya, it's clear to me you know what you're talking about.

Randall
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wreckman 42

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #80 on: March 02, 2009, 08:10:03 PM »

any more Pics?????
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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #81 on: March 03, 2009, 07:26:58 AM »

here where I live, the water table is so high during the summer months, a drain like yours would back up and flood my garage...I'm sure you've taken that in to consideration :orange:
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rheiner

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #82 on: March 03, 2009, 09:53:22 AM »

here where I live, the water table is so high during the summer months, a drain like yours would back up and flood my garage...I'm sure you've taken that in to consideration :orange:

Ya, that's a non issue for me. I live on the "bench" over looking the Salt Lake Valley. I have a full basement, without the need for a sump pump, and the water table is not an issue.

I've got my steel fabricated frame sitting in the hole perfectly leveled, waiting for the concrete guys to show up to finish. We plan on taking measurements from the steel frame to the level of the current garage floor to see how much to float the concrete curb/sidewalls up or down all the way around the rectangle so the lift is at garage floor level when it's installed.

Randall
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porthole

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #83 on: March 03, 2009, 10:38:13 AM »

So - no pictures of the frame in and out of the hole  :nixweiss:

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porthole

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #84 on: March 03, 2009, 10:39:43 AM »

We plan on taking measurements from the steel frame to the level of the current garage floor to see how much to float the concrete curb/sidewalls up or down all the way around the rectangle so the lift is at garage floor level when it's installed.


Is the frame going to sit on the floor you already have poured or are the sides going to be the "resting" location, with the center open?
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rheiner

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #85 on: March 03, 2009, 11:49:23 AM »

I was going to wait for more pictures until the steel frame is in final form but I will post some more pics here so you can see the plan going forward. Right below here the frame is sitting on the floor, completely level with steel shims. That is how it will rest once the curb/walls are poured. It is unpainted and I am adding three more support 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 inch tube steel in the frame to further support the weight at strategic points on the Handy lift. I am also having end caps welded on the 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 inch rails to keep moisture out. The temporary steel shims I have on now are only used to get the height measurement I need to have it level. I will have permanent shims welded on all points of the frame at the predetermined height, then the frame will be primed and painted.

The height of the Handy lift when all the way down is 7 3/4 inches. You can see from one of the pictures it's spot on with the existing floor at that location so the curb/sidewall won't need any slope. However, on the front left corner, the height from the frame to existing concrete is 8 inches, which means I'll be floating the 6 inch curb/sidewall down 1 /4 inch so the concrete floor next to the installed lift is flush with the lift.

Now if the concrete guys would show up I can explain what we need to do, take the measurements, pull the frame out of the hole, and built the support walls to make the final concrete pour. While the walls are curing I'll take the frame to the fabricator for finishing work.

Randall



















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porthole

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #86 on: March 03, 2009, 12:10:07 PM »

What is the reason the sides and based were not poured at the same time?

The holes in the garage floor slab are for additional re-bar, correct?

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rheiner

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #87 on: March 03, 2009, 12:33:42 PM »

What is the reason the sides and based were not poured at the same time?

The holes in the garage floor slab are for additional re-bar, correct?



The reason the sides and base were not poured at the same time is because it would have been an engineering nightmare to expect all the measurements for lift base height, curb level, etc. to be perfect. Maybe it's possible that there are experts that could have done a mono pour and have it be 100% perfect but I'd suspect they would have charged me a fortune, because there is no room for error if I want the existing floor (which is not perfectly level) to be flush with the lift all the way around when it's installed.

The way I've done it in two concrete pour steps will give me perfect results. The motorcycle lift will be level and the curb will be flush with the lift at all points in the down position.

The existing holes you see in the garage floor slab (in other pictures in earlier posts) are for rebar to be epoxied in and bent 90 degrees and tied to the vertical rebar sticking out of the lift slab that will be in the sidewalls. Additionally, there will be horizontal rebar in the sidewalls all the way around. If you look in one of the above pictures (a few posts up from this one), in the conduit run you can see the numerous 90 degree bent rebar pieces laying in there ready to be inserted and epoxied into the pre-drilled holes at garage floor level.

Randall
« Last Edit: March 03, 2009, 12:53:50 PM by rheiner »
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rheiner

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #88 on: March 03, 2009, 01:29:51 PM »

I just got a call from my concrete installers. They are still in still Arizona today, traveling back home tomorrow, and will be here in 2 days from today, first thing in the morning. They said they plan on completing the concrete walls and conduit run that day. So I'll have more pictures in two days, then I'll take some pictures of my completed steel frame both in and out of the hole, topside and bottom, and within a week I should have the lift in the hole, provided my new buddy with the crane can stop by.

Randall
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porthole

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Re: Pics of my new Handy lift
« Reply #89 on: March 03, 2009, 01:34:19 PM »

Looking good and saving the notes for when I do my garage addition.
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MV 2013

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You can't control the weather, only how you deal with it
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