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[BillH]

If I understand correctly,you have the motor down and have a new crank to install?  Knowing the issues with HD/Chinese cranks, I have to ask the question - why would you not have the new assembly trued/pinned?  I imagine that most owners that frequent this site would consider this opportunity the Holy Grail of motor building.  The balance - runout is the heart and soul of our motors, and you have the opportunity to insure that yours is spot-on.  I understand that HD sent a new assembly, but with this opportunity to insure a better motor, why not take the extra step.

I'm just expressing an opinion that any opportunity to improve our motors  is welcome.  And since the MoCo is providing the crank assembly, and labor, why not make it the best it can be?

The 575's are great cams for the 103 motor

Just my thoughts -

Good luck with the motor.

Bill

[HD Street Performance]

Bill
You bring up a good point, many get a warm and fuzzy feeling with bolt-ons but forget the foundation.
Problem I see is many times the dealer / factory warranty network will not allow any modifications to the factory assemblies such as heads and cranks. Bad news for owners that are following the dealers lead, and are required to in order to comply with the terms of the contract.

[RayG]

This may sound stupid to some, but having a poor running 110" I would love to find myself in your position. I would do cart wheels to be able to have my crank done over the right way. I would definitely consider taking the advice of having the crank work done. Many have chosen to do the crank while having to pay for all the labor to tear down and put it back together! Your labor is covered you couldn't be in a better position to start on your new dream motor than to have it pinned and trued now! It is ready to go and the cost would be minimal. I have 22K miles on my SERK and would love to have the bottom end rebuilt to a near bullet proof condition. Regardless on your decision good luck on your build. The advice given on this site is priceless, I have found the members among the most knowledgable you will find anywhere.

Good Luck

Ray G.   

[timo482]

its only 300 bux and a couple of days to have the crank trued and welded

its the number one item on the list if the crank is ever out of my bike for any reason

to

[joez28ss]

I had mine blow a few weeks ago deler sending motor to HD for rebild


 
   joez28ss

[joez28ss]

Have to replace caseing

 
   joez28ss

[Twolanerider]

I had mine blow a few weeks ago deler sending motor to HD for rebild


 
   joez28ss

Oh damn Joe.  Really hate to see that picture.  Nasty looking failure.  Lots of vibration and noise I bet?  Terribly sorry to see you had such a bad failure. 

Was it still stock cams on board or had the inner bearings been in and out at some time.   It's not uncommon to see some metel flakes come out with the bearings so I've often wondered just how many times someone might change cams and bearings before they're beginning to push things.

How long did Harley say the job would take?  Best of luck on getting it all sorted out soon and being back in the saddle man. 

Don

[joez28ss]

Hi don motor was stock just got the ok 2 weeks deler said mabey 4 to 6 weeks.
This happend on my way back from Millwaukee i was in Tulsa Ok.


 
   joez28ss

[Twolanerider]

Hi don motor was stock just got the ok 2 weeks deler said mabey 4 to 6 weeks.
This happend on my way back from Millwaukee i was in Tulsa Ok.


 
   joez28ss

So not only did it happen bad it happened a long way from home too.  That's insult on top of injury man.  You were less than two hours from my place when it crapped out too. 

Still hate seeing that it happened.  Good luck on as speedy a possible path to a good reliable repair.

[REGGAB]

I had mine blow a few weeks ago deler sending motor to HD for rebild


 
   joez28ss

Close to one of the worst I've seen.  Glad you're being taken care of, Joe.  Best to ya.   

[WFP]

Please help an idiot understand what I am looking at...my ride died in Sedona last year due to a primary seal problem...after they fixed that they found the cams were a problem.  Upon disassembly, they were pretty badly scored.

When we were at Don's house at the start of that trip, he heard a noise that i wrote off to the baffles rattling...Don had the better ear...

/Bill

[REGGAB]

Please help an idiot understand what I am looking at...my ride died in Sedona last year due to a primary seal problem...after they fixed that they found the cams were a problem.  Upon disassembly, they were pretty badly scored.

When we were at Don's house at the start of that trip, he heard a noise that i wrote off to the baffles rattling...Don had the better ear...

/Bill

Bill,
You're nowhere near an idiot, however I am..........and somewhere, a village needs me.   

Look at the rear cam bearing location, about 1630-1700 (4:30-5:00).  See it now?

[WFP]

Bill,
You're nowhere near an idiot, however I am..........and somewhere, a village needs me.  

Look at the rear cam bearing location, about 1630-1700 (4:30-5:00).  See it now?

Thanks!

Is the fact that the circled area is not set in completely the cause, the symptom or just a condition of the disassembly?

/Bill

[Twolanerider]

Thanks!

Is the fact that the circled area is not set in completely the cause, the symptom or just a condition of the disassembly?

/Bill

That's just an installed bearing Bill.  The rear hole is the problem.  The failed bearing is removed from that hole in the photo though.  Notice the area of the engine casting that is no long circular.  Then consider that an absolutely circular outer bearing shell is supposed to press in to and be supported by that hole. 

[RayG]

I may be opening a can of worms here but I'll take a shot at it anyway. I'm very limited with my writing skills but I'm trying to say & mean allot without saying allot!

I own an 08 SERK with over 22K miles on her, oil consumption is just starting to become an issue along with an increase in all kinds of top and bottom end noise when it gets hot. Eventually I would like to go the route that some on this site have gone to improve their motors. Dependability and an increase in torque would be the main focus. It seems that the bottom end is the first place to go before even considering a build of any kind. Here is where it gets tricky, how does one get their motor in a situation where the dealer has to rebuild/replace the flywheel without having done to much damage to keep it  dependable after the build. I would like to find myself in that situation and be able to send it out to have it pinned and trued the way it should of been and go from there. My motor sounds like it is on its last leg and my service manager agrees with that and basically said we will deal with it when the time comes. I have been babying it for the last few weeks. I would like to be able to have some control when it goes if possible. I don't want to be out of state with the wife when it goes. I don't beat the crap out of my bike but I do ride aggressively at times. I think you can be aggressive without being abusive but I may be wrong. I think some of you guys know where I'm going with this but I don't know how to get there without incurring so much damage that I would not want to trust her again. It has been agreed that it will eventually need work in this area but I don't want to limp into next spring and have it happen and loose precious riding time. Unless something changes a new bike is out of the question

Or to reword this post what should one do not do to affect the life of the flywheel?

It's almost August and I would like to have open heart (Flywheel) surgery done during the first of winter. I could use some expert advise here, if it's a little deep or to subjective send a PM please.


Thanks

Ray G