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[Heatwave]

I've search high and low and am stumped. Can anyone provide a link to a chrome slip-on muffler for a 2009/2010 Touring model that meets

ALL of the following criteria? Can it really be that difficult to meet these 4 objectives in a slip-on muffler??

- 4" muffler body
- removeable baffles - with various baffle options
- various billet tips
- suitable for a 2009+ touring bike with stock header[/li][/list]

I'm at a loss to find one. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Doc 1]

I've search high and low and am stumped. Can anyone provide a link to a chrome slip-on muffler for a 2009/2010 Touring model that meets

ALL of the following criteria? Can it really be that difficult to meet these 4 objectives in a slip-on muffler??

- 4" muffler body
- removeable baffles - with various baffle options
- various billet tips
- suitable for a 2009+ touring bike with stock header[/li][/list]

I'm at a loss to find one. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Try Rush Exhaust Systems

[Heatwave]

Try Rush Exhaust Systems

Already checked...they don't appear to have a 4" slip-on muffler for an 09+ Touring bike with tips.

[dartman]

I've search high and low and am stumped. Can anyone provide a link to a chrome slip-on muffler for a 2009/2010 Touring model that meets

ALL of the following criteria? Can it really be that difficult to meet these 4 objectives in a slip-on muffler??

- 4" muffler body
- removeable baffles - with various baffle options
- various billet tips
- suitable for a 2009+ touring bike with stock header[/li][/list]

I'm at a loss to find one. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Simple solution right hear awesome sound http://www.fullsac.com/cvo-muffler-cores.html

[1abastarsmda]

I've search high and low and am stumped. Can anyone provide a link to a chrome slip-on muffler for a 2009/2010 Touring model that meets

ALL of the following criteria? Can it really be that difficult to meet these 4 objectives in a slip-on muffler??

- 4" muffler body
- removeable baffles - with various baffle options
- various billet tips
- suitable for a 2009+ touring bike with stock header[/li][/list]

I'm at a loss to find one. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

How about the stock mufflers that come on the bike?  They are 4" with removeable baffles and there are various options for changing them.  They definitely work with the stock header.  I'm not certain, but I believe that the 4" muffler end caps from Harley may fit these mufflers, but I never actually gave that a try.  If you could get a set of the Harley end caps in your hands, it doesn't take much to pop off the end caps that come on the mufflers to quickly see if they will work or not.

[Heatwave]

How about the stock mufflers that come on the bike?  They are 4" with removeable baffles and there are various options for changing them.  They definitely work with the stock header.  I'm not certain, but I believe that the 4" muffler end caps from Harley may fit these mufflers, but I never actually gave that a try.  If you could get a set of the Harley end caps in your hands, it doesn't take much to pop off the end caps that come on the mufflers to quickly see if they will work or not.

Thanks but there are no Harley slip-ons with removeable baffles. Even the SE mufflers from the Racing parts catalog have their baffles welded in. Of course these welds can be ground out but I was looking to see if there was a simpler solution with an aftermarket slip-on that already came with easily removeable baffles, various tips and a 4" muffler body.

This way I would still have the OEM mufflers if I wanted or needed to reinstall them.

So far I haven't found one. Only other option is FullSacs on the 4" factory slip-ons but before I gone down the path of planning for a "grind out". I was hoping someone might have already found an manufactured alternative.

[1abastarsmda]

Thanks but there are no Harley slip-ons with removeable baffles. Even the SE mufflers from the Racing parts catalog have their baffles welded in. Of course these welds can be ground out but I was looking to see if there was a simpler solution with an aftermarket slip-on that already came with easily removeable baffles, various tips and a 4" muffler body.

This way I would still have the OEM mufflers if I wanted or needed to reinstall them.

So far I haven't found one. Only other option is FullSacs on the 4" factory slip-ons but before I gone down the path of planning for a "grind out". I was hoping someone might have already found an manufactured alternative.

The grind out with a Dremel tool is pretty easy if you use the right grinding attachment to do the job.  I started off with the wrong one and it got very frustrating.  Once I found the correct tool, it was a breeze.  You can always find a set of stock mufflers to replace yours or get a set to do the grinding on.

[admccrea]

I just saw on anther thread that Fullsac has new endcaps for the 4"mufflers.  Order the baffels ane endcaps form Steve at Fullsac.

[bob2002]

SUPERTRAPP FATSHOTS,take a look at there website

[DakotaZeb]

I think the only option that meets all your criteria is to go with the stock CVO mufflers and Fullsac baffles.  The mufflers originally came with two different style end caps.  Tappered on the Ultra and straight on the RK's.  Now Fullsac also has end caps.

[Heatwave]

I agree. That's the path I'm going with. I'm actually starting with the Cycle Shack Performance baffle ($55 - #1544 http://www.cycle-shack.com/cycle/agora.cgi?cart_id=7759328.26161*oJ3Dy7&p_id=1544&xm=on). I have already made the stock baffles in my 2010 FLHTCUSE5 removeable. If I don't like the CycleShack baffles, I will then likely go with the 2.25" FullSac baffle as a part of my engine build plans.

I ground out the welds using several different shaped grinding stones (available at any WalMart or Home Depot) and my dremel using the flex shaft attachment which definitely made the job easier. Buy extra stones as I went though several grinding wheels per side. Maybe about 30-45 minutes of grinding per can. Go nice and easy and its really not too difficult (although it is tedious). I did 95% of the grinding while the muffler was still attached to the bike (tips removed). I also had the bike on a portable lift which raised the muffler to a convenient level for grinding. You'll need a bright worklight on a stand that can be directed into the muffler. Once the grinding was close, I removed the mufflers and the heat shields.

Then I used a worklight on a stand shining into the muffler while I held it between my knees and completed the last 5% grinding. Once the grinding was as close as I could get it, I dropped the baffle end straight down on a piece of carpet laid on the garage floor. It took several attempts with an occassional grinding in between but eventually the welds broke. I then cleaned up some of the remaining weld on the muffler wall while the baffle was pushed deeper into the muffler.

Then I stood the muffler on top of several 4x4's with the baffle pipe sticking down between the 4x4's. I then took a stiff metal rod and hammered the baffle from the inlet opening until it pushed back through the muffler. It can only go as far as the 4x4's it's resting on, however by then I could get a good grip and twist it free from the muffler. Once the baffle was out I used the dremel to clean the interior wall of the muffler to free it of an weld remains. I did the same to the edges of the stock baffle.

I then drilled a .25" hole that was centered on the rear, bottom of the muffler. The hole was placed 1 3/8s inch from the end of the muffler. I started with a center punch to get a mark in the hard chrome, then started with a small drill bit and worked my way up to the .25" drill bit.

I then re-inserted the stock baffle (I don't have the performance baffle yet), until the lip of the baffle was fully seated over the hole I had just drilled in the muffler bottom. Once it was in place I took the drill with the .25" drill bit and went through the muffler hole I drilled earlier and then through the lip of the baffle. I actually reamed the whole out abit to make it easier to insert the buttonhead bolt in the future assuming a "less-then-perfect" alignment when I replace the stock baffles. I had already gone to the hardware store to pick up 3 (1 extra) SS .25" x .5" buttonhead bolt with matching SS lock washer and SS nut (cost $2.00). See the results below. The whole job cost less than $10 for the bolts and grinding stones.

I think the result came out nice and looks as if it came straight from Harley. Once the baffles arrive, I can swap the stock one's for the Cycle Shacks and see if I like the sound and if there's any performance difference before taking the bike to the shop for engine work. Once the sound/performance is right, I'll be swapping out tips to the Harley slash-up tip for a "large pipe" look.

Now if only someone could tell me if the 2010 96" touring bikes with the same 2:1:2 header is clean of any catalytic converter or was the MOCO forced to incorporate the CC into the smaller engine bikes as well? Does anyone know for sure if the 2010 headers for non-CVO bikes are free of the cat? I am hoping to swap out my CVO header (with Cat) for a non-CVO header if they are cat-free.

[Heatwave]

And here's the view from the bottom of the stock CVO muffler...

[Heatwave]

And here's the 2010 bike these removeable baffles are installed on....

[1abastarsmda]

You should be able to use the stock exhaust from an 09 or 10 model 96" non-California model to eliminate the catalytic converters.

[miker]

Please check the tec doc!

I think I saw that the 2010 header pie has a new flange mount that may render the 09 header  a no go, do a search for the tec doc here, it is somewhere...