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[jdracing]

I remember reading somewhere here that only certain types/brands of USB-to-serial port adapters will work, and apparently I have one of the ones that doesn't.  

Does anyone know of a specific cable (brand and even part number, and where to get it) that will work for certain?  Thanks in advance.

[BobP]

Sorry, I can't answer your question.  But I can tell you that the serial to USB adapter I tried on my laptop would't work.  The Race Tuner software would hang.  I gave up and moved my desktop PC equipped with a USB port out to the garage.  Then all worked as it should.

[sqrrl24]

Jd, I used a Dynex 16" USB PDA/Serial Adapter Cable Model: DX-UBDB9 I got it at best buy hope this helps. Good luck.
 
 
  

[jdracing]

Thanks both of you for the responses.  I've actually (I think) established the communication between my PC and the bike, although now, when I press "Get ECM" button, I get "not found" for all three categories it's supposed to be reading from the ECM.  Took the Race Tuner and the bike over to the dealer this morning and they hooked up my interface module to their computer (using my ECM cable and their serial cable) and got it to read, and downloaded the CVO stage 1 program into the bike--it runs great.  But I can't get the program to work at home.  

Don't think it's the interface cable, but maybe I'll buy the one Sqrrl24 suggests.  

Thanks for the help.  

[the O`Fender]

Their are generally 2 types of serial communication in computers (that doesn't mean their are not more) the 1st type is straight through communication where all the wires start and terminate on the same pin on the plug in opposing device, the 2nd type sometimes referred to as NULL Modem (the type used by Harley) the transmit and receive pins are swapped (kinda makes sense to have the transmit pin send to the receive pin on the other end and visa versa). So generally the USB adapter isn't the problem it's the cable (unless your only using the adapter and that would create a problem because it would be straight through) buy an inexpensive NULL modem cable and that should fix the issue. Hope that helps. [smiley=pumpkin.gif]

[jdracing]

Thanks O'F.  I'll give that a shot next if the adapter I'm trying doesn't do the trick.

[jdracing]

Sqrrl24, tried to use the Dynex USB-to-serial on two different (current) computers--they recognize it as a "USB/Serial Controller" and look for drivers to install--which don't appear to be available--and the adapter doesn't work.  Did you have any difficulty getting your computer to recognize the adapter?  It's strange that two different computers can't communicate with the adapter you suggested below.

O'Fender, is it possible that the dealer's desktop computer that he hooked my Race Tuner module up to used a different serial cable than the one actually provided with the kit?  I'm just trying to figure out why the MoCo wouldn't have included a "Null modem" serial cable with their kits if that's what's needed?  In other words, why did MoCo include a "straight through" cable"?

Just trying to figure out what combination will work here.  This is just getting to be more complicated than it seems like it should.  Thanks for your thoughts.

[Unbalanced]

The issue is that your USB has to emulate com1 com2 com3 or com4.   The software requires a straight through cable to talk to the serial port which is one of those Com ports.  On the back of your laptop do you have a serial port JDRacing?   If you do an it is not working maybe you need to go into the bios and turn on the port or figure out if it has the same address as another device on your computer.   If you do not, what drivers is it looking for?   The ones ont he CD that came with your usb device or one from Windows CD.   Do you have Service pack1 or 2 on your computer for the operating system.   What operating system are you using?

send me an email at unbalanced@bellsouth.net if you need more help.

-harry

[jdracing]

Thanks Harry.  I tried two laptops with Windows XP, Service Pack 2.  Neither has a serial port.  The driver the computer was trying to load was for the USB-to-serial cable (the Dynex one I bought referenced above).  The computer can't find it on my Windows CD either.  

What's funny is when I hook it all up with a different usb-to-serial adapter that I already had, and press "Get ECM" on the Race Tuner software, it shows "not found" for the VIN and the other two fields.  When I took my module to the dealer, using the module-to-ECM cable from the RT and the dealer's serial cable to their computer, it seemed to work ok.

Anyway, maybe I'll just drag the desktop down to the garage like BobP did.

Thanks for the response.

[the O`Fender]

If you are using the white cable that came with the RT and it worked in one place, It will work on your PC as well. So from what you have said here, what you need to do is download the correct drivers for the adapter from the manufacturers website, or point your computer at the correct folder on the provided CD (you did mention a "disk" I believe). if in fact you do have a CD do a search for "files or folders" and type in *.inf (highlight that file if its found, right click and select install, if it finds more than one do them all you not gonna break anything) that file(s) is the information the computer needs to address the adapter. should work then however you are gonna have to select the correct COM port in the RT software (just keep trying until they establish communication).

[AUSSIE_FLSTFSE]

JD,
I had a similar problem,& all it was just a matter of switching the kill switch to the run position with the ignition on ofcourse. (your usb serial adaptor should come with its own driver on a CD & be installed as new hardware.) as soon as I switched to the run position it gave me the VIN & what program was installed. Hope this helps.

 [smiley=drink.gif]

[jdracing]

Thanks very much to all of you.  I've got some things to try now, and will report back when I do.  I really appreciate all of the support, and am delighted to be part of this community.  Not to mention loving the damn bike--that's the good news--since the dealer downloaded the stage 1 to the ECM from my Race Tuner, the bike runs like a bat outta hell.  

Thanks again.

[jdracing]

Well, I feel like an freakin' idiot.  

Thanks to you all, but especially to Aussie Mike.  As soon as I turned the
@&^%$* kill switch to the "on" position, it ran like a champ.  I got too locked into the instructions that said to turn the ignition on, but nothing about the kill switch.  Seems pretty obvious, huh?

I'm a dimwit, but I sure appreciate the support.  

[hd-dude]

Well, I feel like an freakin' idiot.  

Thanks to you all, but especially to Aussie Mike.  As soon as I turned the
@&^%$* kill switch to the "on" position, it ran like a champ.  I got too locked into the instructions that said to turn the ignition on, but nothing about the kill switch.  Seems pretty obvious, huh?

I'm a dimwit, but I sure appreciate the support.  

Don't feel too bad jd, This reminds me of a funny story. Years ago when I had my 78 shovel I was in front of an indy shop trying to get her started. I ended up killing the battery, which happened often, so I started to use the kick start. After I was completely winded from kickin her the shop owner (Ron Simms) cam out a kicked her until he was completely winded. Well just about that time I realized that the kill switch was in the stop position. (The starter would crank but no spark). When he gave up I got back on it and flipped the switch (without anyone noticing), She kicked over on the next try [smiley=huepfenlol2.gif]
The moral of the story...Don't over look the simple things! Glad you got the download done!

[AUSSIE_FLSTFSE]

Well, I feel like an freakin' idiot.  

Thanks to you all, but especially to Aussie Mike.  As soon as I turned the
@&^%$* kill switch to the "on" position, it ran like a champ.  I got too locked into the instructions that said to turn the ignition on, but nothing about the kill switch.  Seems pretty obvious, huh?

I'm a dimwit, but I sure appreciate the support.  

Jeff,
Don't sweat it, only to glad to share what I have learnt (the hard way!) I know exactly how you feel, I tried 3 computers & two different cables before I worked out how simple it was. But at least we have the balls to admit it (or are stupid enough to admit it here on the www)I have now tried many different maps to date but still think the only way would be to spend the $600 & have a custom map done to suit my engine. But I do not want to do this until I have decided what I am doing about CAMS, COMPRESSION & HEADS which are still the hot topic at the moment. I just can feel she needs to breathe better & I really want a good set of gear drive cams!  But either way I still get a buzz every time I ride

PS: Had a top ride today only about 70miles but still just what I needed.
 [smiley=drink.gif]
Mike