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[DESERTBEAR54]

Yep I agree. A SERT and re-tune with an air ratio of 13.4 will keep the bike running cooler.Al-tho in Tucson my oil temps do get up to 265 degree's on some of our hotter days the motor just keeps on plugging away. I don't get that once great fuel millage that I first got but the motor loves that cooler running.

[Diamondback]

 

[DICKW]

Get your bike tuned to make it run at 13.4 Air to Fuel instead of the 14.7 that it comes from the factory with.  On my 08 SE Ultra I had a race tuner put in, left the stock pipes and it was set up to run 13.4.  My oil temp has never gone over 180 and normally stays around 160.  Even going across South Dakota to Sturgis in hot weather, my oil temp stays down. 

I may just be lucky, but I believe it is because of the fuel air setup.  I have never had the bike get hot sitting at a stop sign or going slow in stop and go traffic.  I have never had the hot idle deal kick in either.  I just crossed 10,000 miles this weekend and I love the power and the ride and just do not have any heat problems.  I am probably asking for trouble by saying it out loud, but I think that is the answer, at least for my bike.

Bob Harris

Those oil temps are a bit low, I understand the lower the better to a point but........

I would like to hear from other people who run temps this low, I dought there will be many.

I run an average oil temp of 230 ambient temp around 80-85, sitting around it jumps a bit closer to 260.

How are you reading these temps? I also run a sert with a 13.2


Just asking, not questioning....well kinda

[Hoist!]

Those oil temps are a bit low, I understand the lower the better to a point but........

I would like to hear from other people who run temps this low, I dought there will be many.

I run an average oil temp of 230 ambient temp around 80-85, sitting around it jumps a bit closer to 260.

How are you reading these temps? I also run a sert with a 13.2


Just asking, not questioning....well kinda

Dick, I agree. I don't believe ANY 110 is running at a constant 160-180 constant oil temp, regardless of ambient conditions. If it is, it's way too cold. Normal oil temp should be above atmospheric boiling point of H2O (212deg F). 230-260 max oil temp is perfect for these motors.

Hoist!

[DICKW]

Dick, I agree. I don't believe ANY 110 is running at a constant 160-180 constant oil temp, regardless of ambient conditions. If it is, it's way too cold. Normal oil temp should be above atmospheric boiling point of H2O (212deg F). 230-260 max oil temp is perfect for these motors.

Hoist!

I couldn't agree more

[Trapperdog]

Just remember that H2O boiling point changes with altitude. As you go higher, the boiling temperature decreases. At sea level, the boiling point of water is 212° F (100° C). As a general rule, the boiling point temperature decreases by 1 degree F for every 540 feet of altitude (0.56° C for every 165 meters). On top of the14,000 foot Pike's Peak, for example, the boiling point of water is 187° F (86° C). Not that any of this matters, just clarifing. 

[Hoist!]

Just remember that H2O boiling point changes with altitude. As you go higher, the boiling temperature decreases. At sea level, the boiling point of water is 212° F (100° C). As a general rule, the boiling point temperature decreases by 1 degree F for every 540 feet of altitude (0.56° C for every 165 meters). On top of the14,000 foot Pike's Peak, for example, the boiling point of water is 187° F (86° C). Not that any of this matters, just clarifing. 

Yep, I should'a known we had them rocket scientists here, and mentioned "at sea level" from the beginning! Geeze, if only HD paid this much attention to detail! We'd all be riding PERFECT bikes without adding a nickel to em!!!

Hoist!

[Sioux City Bob]

I agree that my oil temp not going over 160 is low.  Oil needs to get to 212 to boil off any water that might get into the oil, in the winter that can be a problem.  I believe those temps register on my bike because the Harley dealer installed the temp probe in the oil cooler instead of in the engine oil itself.  The oil cooler has a thermostat that opens at around 160 to let the engine oil into the cooler when it starts to get hot.  If the temp probe is in the output stage of the oil cooler, that would explain the low temp.  I ride all winter, so I need to make sure the oil temp gets over 212 once in awhile.  I plan on getting a dip stick temp gauge to monitor the difference in temps between engine and oil cooler.

For most purposes it does not matter what the gauge reads as long as it is consistant.  When it reads some higher or lower than normal is when to worry.  I also have a laser temp gauge that I aim at the base of each spark plug every now and then and I have had no overheating problems at all.

I thought about moving the oil temp probe, but decided that as long as I get used to what is normal, I can watch for changes.

Sorry about the confusion as to temp.  I should have mentioned that mine is measured in the output of the oil cooler.

Bob Harris

[Trapperdog]

Yep, I should'a known we had them rocket scientists here, and mentioned "at sea level" from the beginning! Geeze, if only HD paid this much attention to detail! We'd all be riding PERFECT bikes without adding a nickel to em!!!

Hoist!

  I'm just a wanabe "model" rocket scientist 

[Eqcons]

With the crappy summer that we have had, I really haven't had the opportunity to ride my CUSE4 for an extended period in high heat - until this past weekend.  I took a trip from Pittsburgh to Fredericksburg VA over the Labor Day weekend, with spouse & luggage in tow.  Lots of low speed, stop and go, and  bumper-to-bumper traffic in near 90 degee temps for a couple of days, and I'm starting to wonder if this bike was a good decision.  I'm getting a ton of valve chatter, and performance is mediocre at best.  When the temps cooled in the evenings, the performance improved, but there was still some valve chatter.  I'm hoping that the high sustained heat didn't damage the engine. 

Any similar experiences or comments?

Thanks,

Ed

One thing that makes a HUGE difference in my experience in this respect (on 96" as well as the 110") is fuel quality when the air temp is high.  Our normal fuel is 95 Octane, and when the air temp is high, the bikes feel rough and sound like a bag-o'-wrenches.  When you put some of the 98 Octane brands - in particular Shell Optimax that we get in Europe, and in Australia - dunno about the US - the bike is a lot - as in very noticeably - smoother and better running. Not such a big deal in cool air temps though. (In Germany this year I was able to get Shell "Optimax Racing" at some Shell stations - 100 Octane, and with that in and high air temps, the bike ran like a sewing machine.  We can't get it here in the UK, sadly...)

Jim

[tazmun]

 With all this information, I'm wondering what type of oil everone is using?
I'm thinking of switching to Redline, heard it cools these bad boys down, even with a stock setup.
I'm not a fan of Syn3, so just wondering!

[Eqcons]

With all this information, I'm wondering what type of oil everone is using?
I'm thinking of switching to Redline, heard it cools these bad boys down, even with a stock setup.
I'm not a fan of Syn3, so just wondering!

The "standard" three work for me..... Amsoil in the motor, Redline Shockproof heavy in the tranny, Redline MTL in the primary.

Jim

[Fired00d]

The "standard" three work for me..... Amsoil in the motor, Redline Shockproof heavy in the tranny, Redline MTL in the primary.

Jim

Ditto.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[woode]

Woode,
 Sounds like DICKW swopped out his air temp gauge for an oil temp gauge. They sell them at the parts counter and you can get them with the spun aluminum face to match the rest of the stock gauges. I leave my EITMS on all the time. When the motor meets a preset temperature(factory set) it drops to one cylinder(fwd)
give it throttle and it will automatically go back to firing both cylinders. Either use your manual or service manual to enable the EITMS or have your dealer enable for you and then just leave enabled. I actually like mine. Let's me know she's hot, for sure...

OK, so armed with this new knowledge, I made sure that the EITMS was activated last week.  Yesterday, I rode into the city - a very pleasant day in the low 70's - but ran into some stop & go for about 20 minutes.  By the time I pulled into the parking garage, the thing was popping & spitting, and trying to stall. I had to keep revving the engine to keep it going, so I thought that I had some serious problems.   When I hopped back on the bike 4 hours later, it was OK again - except for the valve chatter that is driving me nuts.   Talked to the dealer, and they feel that it was the heat management system doing its job.  I have to admit that I didn't know what to expect with the bike running on one cylinder, but I thought it would be a lot smoother than what I experienced.  Should the difference be so "night and day" such as what I experienced, or do you think that there is something else going on?  

Thanks,

Ed

[Diamondback]

 

Amzoil and Redline Shockproof.  Great combo.