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[woode]

With the crappy summer that we have had, I really haven't had the opportunity to ride my CUSE4 for an extended period in high heat - until this past weekend.  I took a trip from Pittsburgh to Fredericksburg VA over the Labor Day weekend, with spouse & luggage in tow.  Lots of low speed, stop and go, and  bumper-to-bumper traffic in near 90 degee temps for a couple of days, and I'm starting to wonder if this bike was a good decision.  I'm getting a ton of valve chatter, and performance is mediocre at best.  When the temps cooled in the evenings, the performance improved, but there was still some valve chatter.  I'm hoping that the high sustained heat didn't damage the engine. 

Any similar experiences or comments?

Thanks,

Ed

[JohnT.]

 Sounds like my '08 SEUC.. Absolutely hates the heat. Lots of valve chatter, especially when you first start it after it warms up and you get underway.
After riding for awhile, she settles in & quiets down. You probably won't hurt the engine with the traffic so much, but out here(so.cal) I try to split lanes if possible
when I'm caught in gridlocked traffic. Problem for me is I ride quiet,(stock CVO cans) so I sort of risk getting hit when I have to split lanes. Rode a '96 cube
'09 Ultra Classic for a couple of hours 2 or 3 weeks ago, got her hot as could, no engine noise, at all.. The 110, from my experience is more noisey,(valve noise,pinging, etc.) But, it is quicker, for sure. Performance, depends on what your used to riding. Compared to the stock 96 cube, much better..Compared to a 80 cubic inch Shovel much, much better. Compared to a built Screamin' Eagle 95 cube or higher,( cams, heads, etc.) motor, maybe not so much better. All I can say is for me personally, the bike as a whole moves me down the interstate nicely, I have no problems with grades, and passing big trucks and motorhomes, and I don't have a string of traffic riding my rear section. I understand your complaints though. Try to get away from gridlock traffic. If you do alot of sitting around idling, you risk the possibility of damaging the engine, because you have no air blowing across the cylinders, and the engine is over 100 inches displacement. By the way, mine loves riding at 2-3 in the morning or winter riding temps, engine runs like a top then. Until they introduce a liquid cooled model, I'm afraid we are always going to have heat issues.. Hope this helps you in some kind of way..

[woode]

Thanks for the response.  I guess that was what I was hoping to hear - that my issues are normal and I don't really have any serious problem.  On the down side,  since this is normal, I suppose that I will have to live with it since there is nothing to fix.  Fortunately, we don't have a huge number of super hot days in the Pittsburgh area.  I think that we only hit 90 degrees once or twice all year.  My favorite riding seasons around here are Spring and Fall, where the high temps are generally in the low to mid 70s.  I even prefer Winter (without snow, of course) to stifling Summer heat. 

[Guilty]

I don't enjoy riding my 09' SERG in temperatures above 85 degrees, especially while sitting at a stop light or stuck in traffic...it is downright uncomfortable with all of the excessive engine heat. I ended up riding my 06' RK when the weather gets too hot. Needless to say, it is a bit disappointing to have to park the SERG in the heat of summer. Fortunately, I like riding in all seasons weather permitting. I will probably try switching out the header this winter for a jet coat stock 09' header and install some vents in the fairing lowers and see if that helps. I love the power of the 110 engine, but the heat sucks bad.

[DICKW]

I think this heat issue is something we all bought into, and have to deal with it the best we can.So far I have completed the mods that helped A/C Header Pipes and Mufflers and a SERT. Temps have dropped but hotter then the 06 I had before.

But as far as overall comfort and performance and the added differences in Bikes you have to accept it as it is or buy something else. The bike as a whole performs very well.

I ride 12 months a year, personally dressing for the cold weather suites me fine, but I will not let this motorcycle stop me from riding in the summer.

I rode 350 miles yesterday 2 up and my temp gauge read 230 all day. Staring at these gauges will cause some people to enjoy the ride less, I use the oil temp gauge as a guide just like all other gauges.

My bike has a very good warranty and I have a very good relationship with my dealership. If the bike breaks down they can fix it......that simple.

[Diamondback]

 

One more item is the fact that the 110 is 25% bigger than the 88 and thus by the size alone will generate more heat.  We have the hottest summer in South Texas on record.  59 days over 100.  July and August is the hottest ever.

With the new frame, tires, etc and the rerouted exhaust ( and the non cat header, PC V with auto tune, Stage I set at 13.7 afr) this bike is cooler than my 07 SE Ultra but not as cool as the 06 88.

When stopped the extra heat has  no place to go but around you. 

 

[woode]

Yes, I agree that we all "bought into" the heat issue, but reading about it, and experiencing them are not the same.  I accept the heat as part of the package, but was concerned that I was seeing something beyond the norm.  If we hadn't had 7 out of 8 months with unseasonably cool temperatures, I would have seen these things much earlier, and would have assumed that it was normal.  However, having these symptoms after 7 months of decent performance and no real heat issues, gave me concern.

On a different, but related topic...

How can you tell if the "Engine Idle Temperature Management System" (EITMS) is properly functioning?  I have never noticed a difference when it is supposed to be engaged, including when I try to manually engage it by pushing the throttle to the roll-off position.  The cruise control lamp flashes green continually as I hold the throttle forward, and changes back to amber when I release it.  I never notice any difference in idle cadence or exhaust odor, as the manual suggests.  Has anyone taken advantage of this feature, and what are your observations?

Thanks,

Ed

[DICKW]

I can only say that mine is functioning properly, it comes on around 240 ish (up or down) that is if you trust your gauges.

To a point I trust mine (in dash), I use it as a reference.

I know the rear cylinder kicks out, other then that I don't play with it. My understanding is....it is on or it is off.

[woode]

You have an oil temp gauge in the dash?  What am I missing? 

[sadunbar]

You have an oil temp gauge in the dash?  What am I missing?  

I suspect Dick has replaced the worthless air temp. gage with a more useful oil temperature gage....


Have you added a fuel management device to richen up your fuel mixture from the lean stock setting?  A richer fuel mixture will help cool your engine a bit and will help reduce the "valve clatter" you experience at high temps... 

[JohnT.]

 Woode,
 Sounds like DICKW swopped out his air temp gauge for an oil temp gauge. They sell them at the parts counter and you can get them with the spun aluminum face to match the rest of the stock gauges. I leave my EITMS on all the time. When the motor meets a preset temperature(factory set) it drops to one cylinder(fwd)
give it throttle and it will automatically go back to firing both cylinders. Either use your manual or service manual to enable the EITMS or have your dealer enable for you and then just leave enabled. I actually like mine. Let's me know she's hot, for sure...

[DICKW]

You have an oil temp gauge in the dash?  What am I missing?  

Yes I replaced my worthless air temp gauge with an oil temp gauge. I consider it more useful.

Pretty simple job couple 3 hours and your done, you'll even get an oil change.

[grc]

..................................

On a different, but related topic...

How can you tell if the "Engine Idle Temperature Management System" (EITMS) is properly functioning?  I have never noticed a difference when it is supposed to be engaged, including when I try to manually engage it by pushing the throttle to the roll-off position.  The cruise control lamp flashes green continually as I hold the throttle forward, and changes back to amber when I release it.  I never notice any difference in idle cadence or exhaust odor, as the manual suggests.  Has anyone taken advantage of this feature, and what are your observations?

Thanks,

Ed

Ed, there is no "manual engagement", if you mean having it kick in as soon as you do the roll back.  Read the instructions again, and you will find that the roll back action just enables or disables the automatic system, and it must be done with the key on and engine off.  Once the system is enabled the actual engagement is automatic based on certain criteria, including cylinder head temp above the threshold, closed throttle, clutch disengaged or trans in neutral, very low or no road speed indication, etc.  If you're doing the roll back with the engine running and expect the rear cylinder to kick out, that's not the way it works.

1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position (do not start the motorcycle).

2. Push the throttle to roll-off position and hold.

3. After approx. 3 seconds, the cruise indicator lamp will will either flash green (EITMS enabled) or red (EITMS disabled).

4. Repeat the procedure as needed to enable or disable EITMS.

5. Once it is set how you want it, turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.

Once the system is enabled, if you are unsure if the system is working properly the dealership can hook up their Digital Tech equipment and monitor the cylinder head temp sensor reading to make sure the EITMS is kicking in at the right temp.  I can't remember the head temp that it kicks in at, but the dealer should have the specs.

Jerry

[woode]

Ed, there is no "manual engagement", if you mean having it kick in as soon as you do the roll back.

Huh.  Actually, that is exactly what I thought, although I'm not sure where I got the idea.  I certainly didn't get it from the manual, as I just found that section in the book yesterday.  Either someone told me that there was a manual override, or I misinterpreted something that I read on this site.

Either way, I guess I've been turning it off and on inadvertantly - thinking that I was manually engaging it.

I'll keep an eye on it, now that it is set "on," and see if I see a difference during a hot traffic stop.

Ed

[Sioux City Bob]

Get your bike tuned to make it run at 13.4 Air to Fuel instead of the 14.7 that it comes from the factory with.  On my 08 SE Ultra I had a race tuner put in, left the stock pipes and it was set up to run 13.4.  My oil temp has never gone over 180 and normally stays around 160.  Even going across South Dakota to Sturgis in hot weather, my oil temp stays down. 

I may just be lucky, but I believe it is because of the fuel air setup.  I have never had the bike get hot sitting at a stop sign or going slow in stop and go traffic.  I have never had the hot idle deal kick in either.  I just crossed 10,000 miles this weekend and I love the power and the ride and just do not have any heat problems.  I am probably asking for trouble by saying it out loud, but I think that is the answer, at least for my bike.

Bob Harris