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[Mr. Wizard]

Fired00d

Are we allowed to post the info that MikeV requested? If so, I can accommodate his request.

Thought I would ask first because it maybe the kind of stuff that will irritate the MOCO monitors.

[Fired00d]

Fired00d

Are we allowed to post the info that MikeV requested? If so, I can accommodate his request.

Thought I would ask first because it maybe the kind of stuff that will irritate the MOCO monitors.

I'm not sure what you are speaking of to post that hasn't been posted many times here already if it's concerning fuel/air management. If it is something other then that why don't you send me a PM of what you are talking about.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[Mr. Wizard]

I'm not sure what you are speaking of to post that hasn't been posted many times here already if it's concerning fuel/air management. If it is something other then that why don't you send me a PM of what you are talking about.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

Posting pictures of the ARF/Lambda tables, left and right VE tables for a stock map.

If that is proprietary info I'll PM MikeV with the info.

Just needed clearance from the site first.

[Graybeard]

Well...Thanks to a record snow storm and 30 " of snow over the weekend, I've had a lot of time to do more research on my issues and also get considerably more educated, especially from several of Mr Wizard's comments on other threads. And today (Monday) we are getting ready for...get this...another 12-20" of snow tomorrow. That's on top of the already 30" we got Saturday. This is really off the charts for the Annapolis area.

So unless I loose power, I've got some time on my hands and would like to finalize my decision, hopefully with the helpful comments from you guys.

Here is where I'm leaning (not AFR... )

Though my original thoughts to get ride of the cats and improve the stock sound, was to go with Rush slip-on's with the 1.75 baffles. After reading the post and talking to Steve at Fullsac, I might be leaning the other way. I might take off both of my stock pipes and send them to Steve..., knowing that I might be the first to have the mod on the FLSTSE. With all the snow on the ground, doesn't look like I'll be on the bike anytime soon anyway, so I can afford to let Steve have them for a while. It's just all the good thinks I hear about him, coupled with the fact I like the looks of my stock pipes, are leading me in this direction.

I was also working on a solution to the heat issues with our 110 powerhouse. Obviously, the pipe mod will help, but the stock AFR at idle, being compliant with EPA, is too lean. Some solutions like the PCV with the wide band autotune option from Fuelmoto were looking good to me until I did a little more research. Granted, I'm very new to this (been 30 years since I used to ride) and the total mods I'll do to this ride are just to sweeten the sound, and cool it down where possible.  It seems from what I've discovered that the TTS solution might be a better fit for me. I like the idea of not adding an additional module in line with the ECM, and if it can adjust the idle AFR to 13 something, this looks like a better solution. I'm not sure though if the original O2 sensors will have any impact in remapping to a richer idle. (Sorry guys.., if this is an obvious questions )

I have noticed that data for both the TTS and PCV for the 2101 FLSTSE is in short supply for obvious reasons. For example, what maps are available for our ride for TTS or PCV. I have not found any yet.

I'm also adding a HD oil cooler for the Softail, out of the HD catalog, but I might add the mini fan option, that available as an aftermarket add-on to the oil cooler. (Still not sure about the fan) I'm just very concerned about the heat issues with this bike, and want to do whatever possible to eliminate the obvious issues for a cooler ride (and idle).

So what do you guys think about my plan.

Thanks so much

Mickey

 

[Mr. Wizard]

Mikey

As far as my thoughts on your plan...

I think you are on the right track with Steve, his baffles and his TTS. You can save your stock map with the TTS. Then you can simply VTune your stock map and the bike will run cooler. There is no real need for a downloaded starter map. You already have one on your bike.

As far as the oil cooler and fan goes...  We live in a hotter climate than you and are not considering it at all. We do however have a set of heat deflectors from RJ for our ConV. That would be the "no more fried thighs" guy. http://www.rjsoriginals.com/  I haven't put them on yet but they look fantastic. Call him up and tell him to make you the same set that he made for Wizard.

[Mr. Wizard]

Graybeard and Goldfar

I sent you guys a PM last night.

[Gamma742]

Graybeard and Goldfar

I sent you guys a PM last night.

I know it's early but, are the Fullsac's available?

[Graybeard]

This is a copy of the response I sent to Dave this morning



Small correction to the snow totals.....it's now more like 4 feet. Had another blizzard yesterday. We'll have snow till May.

I still have a few questions I need to have answered before I make a decision, and am planning to talk to Mike at the HD dealer today (If they are opened)
I'm also going to call Steve at Fullsac with a few questions. Like I said, I'm not really interested in any major mods on the bike, just want a better sound and a cooler engine. I'm hoping that the TTS can handle this. The PCV w/ autotune and wide band O2 will do the job, but I think it's overkill for what I need. Plus I like the idea of not adding the additional hardware.

I should have a decision by the end of the day.

A question.... I don't have a service manual...., is the removal of the mufflers straight forward?

Thanks

Mickey

[Mr. Wizard]

Use 5/16th nut driver to remove the Heat Shield clamps, there are two per muffler. Start there and put them in a safe place where they won't get scratched. You will need to loosen the head pipe shield a little. This will allow you to remove the muffler heat shield easier. When putting the shields back on do not use a ratchet or power drill. Do it hand tight. You don't want to cross thread the worm gearing or strip it out.

There are two 3/8ths head bolts on the bottom of each muffler. Loosen those next. Put them where you won't loose them. (four total)

There are two 9/16th crimp nuts, one for each muffler clamp. The top one (rear cylinder) is a little hard to get to so use either a box wrench or a ratchet box wrench. Do not use an open end wrench to start. It will slip on you as these nuts will be tight. Be sure to cover the muffler can so you won't scratch it by accident. The front muffler clamp is easy to get to with a 4" extension on a ratchet wrench. Loosen these two crimp nuts until the thread is even with the nut. Leave both of them on the head pipe so you will know which direction and how they go back on.

To remove, start with the top (rear) muffler. They will not just slide off. You will need to move them back and forth so they will loosen from the head pipe. There is a split on the entrance end of the muffler. This must be opened slightly so this act of moving back and forth will be like you are bending the front of the muffler. Be very sure you hold the head pipe or have someone hold it for you while you wiggle the muffler. This is important, you don't want to put stress on the head pipe at the exhaust port on the motor. When you get enough slack, the muffler will slide off. This is not as tough as it sounds, just take your time and it will come off.

[Mr. Wizard]

OK guys...

I am taking off the ConV mufflers and sending the Fullsac this weekend...

Don't want to hold this up anymore and will let you guys know when we get them back.

[Mr. Wizard]

Update

Mufflers have been sent to Steve. He should have them this coming Friday.

[Graybeard]

Hi Guys;

Sorry about the delay, but because of the weather, the HD dealer was closed Thursday and Friday Mike, the top tech at the shop was out. Finally got to talk to Mike yesterday. We spent over an hour in the shop talking about my objectives. I know some people distrust advice from dealers, but Mike is well known in this area and I trust his advice. He also is a long time HD owner, (several) and practices what he preaches.

As I said, my main objective was cooling the engine, and also improving the sound. Mike and my saleman Frank, both use ThunderMax w/ autotune on their bikes. Mike has installed over 40 of these EFI ECMs and is totally sold on the product. The HD dealer is also an authorized distributor for their line, as well as several others. What I like most about Thundermax is it is a replacement for the OEM ECM, and not a piggyback add-on, like the PCV. Install is much simpler. I'll be also using the new wide-band sensors w/ autotune add-on, and for the FLSTSE, the original sensors are the standard size, not the smaller, narrow O2s on some of the other 2010 CVOs.

I can't give a lot of technical data on the TM, but since I am having Mike do the install, I feel better going with his recommendation. After all, he's the guy I go to when I need work done on the bike.  Maybe if I was more experience on tuning myself, I'd take a different approach, but or now this feels more appropriate. Also, I keep the original ECM in case. And no impact on the HD warranty for the bike, obviously with the exception of the TM module (which comes with a 3 year warranty). TM is also local to Annapolis which is handy if I ever want to visit or have support issues.

As for the pipes, I got a chance to listen to the Rush slip-ons (1.75) on a late model CVO softail, and I really like the sound. Plus I like the option of keeping my stock mufflers in case I run into a EPA or inspection issues. I know a lot of you (me included) like what Fullsac can do to the stock pipes, but since the CVO convertable mod is new, and also considering the option of keeping my OEM pipes, I ordered the Rush slip-ons with the TM package.

I was very happy with the cost and estimate labor charge (2 to 3 hours) for the pipes and TM install and configure. It also includes Mike going thru the PC interface and reviewing the MAPs with me. And considering the recommendation from the other local guys, plus what I've read in the forums, I'm comfortable with my decision.

I'm sorry about the delay in getting back to all of you and appreciate the advice, especially from Mr. Wizard and Mike V. You guys have been great.

Once the roads are clear (May or June... and the parts are in, I'll take the bike to the dealer. Should be done in a few weeks. I'll post my impressions, as well as the technical improvements as soon as possible.

PS.....We have more snow comming tomorrow..........

Ride safe

Mickey
 

[MikeV]

Mickey - thanks for the update. Sounds like a good plan. Let us know how it turns out after the work is done.

Dave - did you get a chance to pull your baffles and send them to Steve? As soon as he starts building them I am ordering a set of the 1.75's.

Thanks,

Mike

[Mr. Wizard]

Dave - did you get a chance to pull your baffles and send them to Steve? As soon as he starts building them I am ordering a set of the 1.75's.

Thanks,

Mike

Yup.. see the post just above Graybeards.

I'm having a small issue getting the TTS to read and save the stock map from the ECM. Will call them this week if Doc or Steve Cole doesn't answer my post with a fix. Just a glitch slowing me down but I have plenty of time.

[HermitIX]

I recently installed a Vance & Hines Double Barrell Exhaust on my 2010 CVO Softail Convertible. This is my first attempt to attach a picture to a post so please forgive me if I screw it up.

I'm certainly not an expert on exhaust systems but was told Vance & Hines was one of the higher quality manufacturers out there. Based mostly on looks, I narrowed my choice to the Double Barrel and the Big Shots Staggered. They looked so similar I called Vance & Hines to ask about the difference between the two. The sales rep told me the Double Barrel was about 10db louder than stock and the Big Shots Staggered was about 20db louder. With the quiet baffles installed on the Big Shots Staggered, the rep said they would still be about 17db louder than stock. That's too loud for me so I went with the Double Barrel.

Here's the link that has good pictures of the Vance & Hines offerings for the CVO Softail Convertible.

http://www.vanceandhines.com/products/visual-menu-CVO.html

PS - I had the local HD dealer install the exhaust and do a ballpark adjustment with a SERT. I'm planning to install a Woods TW7H cam and get Rod's Performance in Hanceville, Alabama to do some serious tuning as soon as I get 1000 break in miles on the bike. Has anyone done a cam change yet?