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[Heatwave]

I've been down this path myself.

FWIW:
I compared the 50 v 58 mm tb. Not enough difference that you'ld notice with a "butt" dyno.

I have the SERT in my build which was replaced with the SEST. Again, no difference. Seems to be strictly the perference of the tuner.

I doubt there's enough left on the table to make it worth pursuing. At some point your spending a lot of money for minimal gains.

She looks to me to be a great "street" build. I'd just toss a leg over her and ride. Ya can't ride a dyno sheet anyway.

Don't drive yourself crazy with these dyno sheets, love what your riding and get your smile in the wind

JW

That's good advice and once the weather warms up she'll get plenty of exercise. There's a call for snow this weekend so I'm just chewing the fat by throwing this thread out there.

I also have the SERT on my other bike but this 2010 SEST seems to be full of surprises in it's tuning limitations (according to the experts which I am far from) and I think many more 2010 CVO owners may have some surprises ahead for them unless the MOCO comes out with updates to the software (which can now be downloaded over the internet). They've already had one update and I suspect they may find themselves making many more updates if they end up losing SuperTuner sales to the competition.

[cahdbiker]

Heatwave, My thinking on this is like a lot of the other guys. Forget about the dyno numbers. If you crack the throttle and it gives you that certain feeling then be happy about what you have done. You can drive yourself crazy worry/comparing numbers when what really matters is what happens when you have a passenger, luggage, and you want to drop out of overdrive and pass some 30 ft. 5th wheel that is already doing 80. Sometimes you already have what you want/need and don't realize it. Just my humble opinion. Ride Safe. CAHDBIKER

[DanM]

I have felt your pain. I pumped thousands of $’s into the engine of my previous bike. I was chasing numbers that others were bragging about and my build always come up short to posted numbers. I still fight the urge to get more out of my 09 CVO Ultra. My current thought is… if you get on a open stretch of road (for a bagger) and you crack on the throttle, if you release the throttle before the bike stops pulling you’ve got good numbers. Just my $.02.

[Heatwave]

Great feedback from all. Although I have to say I remain curious to see if other 2010 CVO owners using the SEST find themselves in the same position as myself.

[HOGMIKE]

I have felt your pain. I pumped thousands of $’s into the engine of my previous bike. I was chasing numbers that others were bragging about and my build always come up short to posted numbers. I still fight the urge to get more out of my 09 CVO Ultra. My current thought is… if you get on a open stretch of road (for a bagger) and you crack on the throttle, if you release the throttle before the bike stops pulling you’ve got good numbers. Just my $.02.

 

[JCZ]

In regards to the Fullsac baffles on the dual exhaust.....he posted a dyno sheet on here somewhere showing the 110 with all three baffles on the same dyno sheet.  The 2.0 performed the best, with the 1.75 coming in slightly less and the largest baffle coming in considerably less in both HP and TQ.

[guppytrash]

I think dyno numbers are like MPG. 

Somebody always gets 10 mpg better than everyone else with the same car.  They are always easy to find...they always talk a little louder than everyone else, especially in a crowd. 

Now on the other hand if everyone you know gets 10 mpg better than you with the same car it is frustrating.  Even if your mileage is good it is hard to be satisfied, because it just doesn't make sense.




 

[cyril]

The bike pulls strong from 2000 rpms in all gears. I had a smile from ear to ear on the first ride (about 60 miles). Its simply fantastic in the curves and the power feels unlimited. With the torque band, shifting is simply not as important as it was before since the bike can pull whenever its asked to. Absolutely no disappointment in the ride but still wondering if there's another 10 hp/ft-lbs I left in the motor by using the SEST?
Sounds like your happy with what you have,why worry about anyone else ?

[Unbalanced]

Heatwave,

You might try this guy BlackHills Ken to do an independent dyno run for your piece of mind.

He is in NJ his website is http://www.blackhillscustomparts.com/   

BTW what did the builder tell you this build would make?  Who chose the parts for it?

[Air-Cooled]

I'd like to take a slightly different approach. Should you be disappointed with the numbers? After spending all that money, and evaluating in the most objective manner (dyno), I would say: Hell Yes! If you don't ask why the numbers are low, you'll never know. While it is true that numbers vary from one dyno to the next, it is also true that the dyno is our only objective means of measuring and comparing. Keep asking questions and trying alternatives before you accept the "seat of the pants report." It is a fact that many motorcyclists believe they have more power after putting loud pipes on their bike, when actually they have less. Placebo effect? Go with the dyno, or maybe two dynos.  

When you get an answer, let us all know. Maybe we'll all learn something.

[Heatwave]

Heatwave,

You might try this guy BlackHills Ken to do an independent dyno run for your piece of mind.

He is in NJ his website is http://www.blackhillscustomparts.com/   

BTW what did the builder tell you this build would make?  Who chose the parts for it?

I've spoken to Ken in the past and he is close enough to get a second dyno run. Good suggestion. Prior to doing that I was planning to use SmartTune to tweak the map myself. In the past, I've found that SmartTune does an excellent job of making the throttle response even crisper than the main tuning. I don't think SmartTune handles large adjustments well but for "finishing" a tune, it has worked very well over the Fall for me.

After a few SmartTune runs and updates, it'll be worth having a dyno run with the most current map that generated the dyno graph at the start of this thread as well as seeing what if any improvements SmartTune can produce in an updated map.

[Heatwave]

FWIW, I finally had a chance to download the map from the bike. I haven't compared all the tables yet but it's worth noting that the previous dyno tunes on the bike (prior to the FatCat) all required raising the CID to 120ci. The latest map that generated the great dyno graph at the start of this thread has the CID set to 113 (I had stated earlier that it was 120 which was incorrect).

It would appear that the current map was dialed back in engine size which did result in excellent low and mid rpm performance but the tech may have had to trade-off peak performance due to limits in the SEST (according to him not me). Either way, my plan is to spend some time with SmartTune to see if it can make any additional performance improvements. Then I will test both the current map and any modified maps on a different dyno and evaluate the differences.

Using Smartune is actually kind of fun and worth the effort to experiment (once the weather is cooperative). Last step will be off to an indy expert in the SEST for a new tuning if my Smartune efforts don't achieve significant improvement. I'll be sure to share the findings. In the interim, it will be a blast riding the bike to gather the performance metrics to make the Smarttune adjustments.

[mcflyer]

JUST SOME THOUGHTS. TAKE TO HEART THE FOLLOWING FACTS.

1 IF YOU COMPARE YOUR DYNO SHEET TO OTHER PEOPLES DYNO SHEETS YOU SHOULD BE AWARE THAT DYNOS CAN LIE. BY CHANGING 1 SETTING ON A DYNO 1 COULD SEE A 5-10 % INCREASE OR DECREASE. AFTER BEING INVOLVED WITH THE DYNO SHOOTOUT IN DAYTONA FOR MANY YEARS IT BECAME OBVIOUS THAT CERTAIN DYNOS HAVE GOOD NUMBERS AND CERTAIN TUNERS HAVE GOOD NUMBERS TOO. DYNO SHEETS ARE LIKE BENCH RACING AFTER A FEW BEERS EVERYONE IS SLAPPING THEIR D**KS ON THE TABLE TO SEE WHO HAS THE BIGGEST ONE.

2. MY BUDDY WORKS AT A LOCAL HD DEALER. HE TOOK AN 07 96" TO 110. HAD THE HEADS DONE AND USED PARTS SIMILIAR TO YOURS. YOU NEVER MENTIONED WHAT COMPRESSION RATIO PISTONS YOU USED. HE HAS 10.7-1 WITH TRUE DUALS AND A 53 MM TB. HE MAKES 107HP AND 114 TQ. I'VE RIDDEN HIS BIKE AND LOVE THE MOTORS PERFORMANCE.
 
3. YOUR DYNO SHEET HAS SOME INTERESTING FACTS? THE TEMP WAS 57 DEGRESS WITH 19% HUMIDITY AND THE BARO WAS 29.43. WHAT I LIKE TO CALL THE FUDGE FACTOR SHOWS 97% WHICH MEANS YOUR ENGINE ACTUALLY MADE APPROXIMATELY 114 HP AND 117 TQ WHICH WAS YOUR NUMBERS WERE SCALED DOWN. WITH SUCH A POOR BARO READING I WOULD HAVE THOUGHT THE FACTOR WOULD HAVE BEEN MUCH HIGHER THAN 97%. THE LOW TEMP AND HUMIDITY READINGS SEEM TO OUT WEIGH THE BARO READING WHICH HAS THE GREATEST EFFECT ON YOUR ENGINES ABILITY TO MAKE HP AND TQ.  29.43 IS ON THE LOW END OF THE SCALE FOR HP BUT I WASNT THERE TO WITNESS THE RUNS SO WHO REALLY KNOWS?

THE BIGGEST THING YOU NEED TO GRASP IS THAT UNLESS THE 2 BIKES ARE RUN ON THE SAME DAY WITH THE SAME DYNO AND THE SAME OPERATOR YOU CAN NOT REALLY COMARE THE RESULTS. SURE YOU COULD GET WITHIN 5-10 % OF THE REAL NUMBERS ON DIFFERENT DYNOS AND DAYS BUT I WOUDN'T BET THE HOUSE IN A REAL COMPARISON.
IT BECOMES AND APPLES AND ORANGES THING.
GOOD LUCK!

[Heatwave]

Excellent insight. Thanks for sharing it. I hope to have more info. using a different dyno and different tech after making a number of adjustments using SmartTune. BTW, the engine is setup with the stock pistons (Recommendation by Scott at Hillside) however the heads are creating 10.5 compression with those stock pistons.

[SIX38]

Ah, the never ending quest for more horsepower/torque, cubic inches, lower ET's and on and on, an illness many of us suffer from. Since Heatwave appears to have a severe case, may I offer this prescription:

 Since you plan on doing your own tuning, TTS Mastertune with it's V-Tune and DataMaster features will provide all the data and tweaking you could possibility want.
 
 As stated by "mcflyer" and others, Dyno numbers can be all over the place because there are so many variables that can impact the results. Plus, dyno time is expensive.

 Since your goal of more HP/TQ really means "I want go faster", install a on board performance meter to actually measure your  0-60, 0-100 times, 1/4 mile elapsed time and mph, flywheel and rear wheel hp, and measure this real time while driving your SEUC. PerformanceBox from VBOX USA is a GPS based meter and will work well on a motorcycle. This will make the "seat of your pants testing obsolete. The cost of two dyno runs will more than pay for it.
    http://vboxusa.com/performancedrift/performancebox.php

Good Luck and Be Careful. (I'm sure your testing is on a "closed course with a professional driver")

Tom P.