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Author Topic: Starter problems  (Read 6756 times)

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harleyguynv

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Starter problems
« on: March 06, 2010, 08:10:48 PM »

First off let me say I made a rookie mistake and ark-ed the hot starter wire against a heat shield (very briefly) with a wrench. I forgot to disconnect the battery :oops:. Now the starter won't turn over, not even a click. I checked all the fuses and relays and all are ok. I disconnected the battery for about an hour to reset the alarm and still nothing. Anybody have any ideas on where I should look next? I really feel stupid even posting this.
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rbaker

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Re: Starter problems
« Reply #1 on: March 06, 2010, 08:27:15 PM »

did you check the main fuse at the solenoid stud? It is crimped together with the battery positive cable.   good luck

Richard


 :pineapple:
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harleyguynv

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Re: Starter problems
« Reply #2 on: March 06, 2010, 11:06:41 PM »

did you check the main fuse at the solenoid stud? It is crimped together with the battery positive cable.   good luck

Richard


 :pineapple:

I don't see the fuse you are talking about. There is a 40 amp main fuse that controls the whole bike in the left side cover where most of the other fuses are. Is this the one you are talking about?
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Twolanerider

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Re: Starter problems
« Reply #3 on: March 06, 2010, 11:30:11 PM »

Your describing the maxi-fuse.  If it blew you'd have much less than just a no-starter condition.  Are there other things (lights, gauges, etc) also dead?
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harleyguynv

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Re: Starter problems
« Reply #4 on: March 07, 2010, 08:09:53 AM »

Your describing the maxi-fuse.  If it blew you'd have much less than just a no-starter condition.  Are there other things (lights, gauges, etc) also dead?

Everything else works. When I turn the ignition on everything seems fine. When I go to start it, it's dead, not even a click.
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Twolanerider

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Re: Starter problems
« Reply #5 on: March 07, 2010, 09:13:01 AM »

Everything else works. When I turn the ignition on everything seems fine. When I go to start it, it's dead, not even a click.

Then it's not the maxi fuse.  While I wouldn't expect a quick flash like that to kill a starter what you're describing leaves only three most likely options.  Zero activity from the starter (assuming it's not wiring) means checking the starter switch (on the handlebars), starter relay and the starter itself.

Have you used a simple test light or volt meter to see if the big post on the starter is hot and if the feed wire to engage gets hot when you push the switch?  If both happen the starter died.  If not you've got to look farther upstream.
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Twolanerider

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Re: Starter problems
« Reply #6 on: March 07, 2010, 09:15:38 AM »

Also, and pardon the admittedly stupid question (but simple solutions are always worth asking about), is there any chance that in all the confusion and excitement after see "the big spark" that you're now trying to start it with the kill switch off?
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moscooter

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Re: Starter problems
« Reply #7 on: March 07, 2010, 09:29:59 AM »

Also, and pardon the admittedly stupid question (but simple solutions are always worth asking about), is there any chance that in all the confusion and excitement after see "the big spark" that you're now trying to start it with the kill switch off?
:cherry:

Good point,  also be sure you haven't knocked the bike in gear or have a (false) neutral.  Is the "green" lite glowing.   Had a buddy the other day that thought he messed something up cause it would not start.......was in a false neutral and no lite and no start.
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Twolanerider

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Re: Starter problems
« Reply #8 on: March 07, 2010, 09:33:52 AM »

:cherry:

Good point,  also be sure you haven't knocked the bike in gear or have a (false) neutral.  Is the "green" lite glowing.   Had a buddy the other day that thought he messed something up cause it would not start.......was in a false neutral and no lite and no start.

Oh yeah, I forgot about the neutrol interlock on the newer model bikes.  Another thing to account for the described problem.  The kickstand switch on the international bikes also.
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harleyguynv

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Re: Starter problems
« Reply #9 on: March 07, 2010, 09:54:28 AM »

I appreciate the help guys. The nutural light come on when I put it in nutural. I also tried it with the clutch pulled in. So I don't think that is the problem. I switched the brake relay with the starter relay since they are the same, knowing the brake relay works. Wouldn't it blow a fuse before it would affect the start switch? I don't have a ohm meter but looks like I will have to get one. There are two hot wires leading to the starter. (the one I touched) One is direct off the battery and the other goes to the Maxi fuse. Since the maxi fuse, and the other 15 amp fuses are alright would be the starter?
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Twolanerider

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Re: Starter problems
« Reply #10 on: March 07, 2010, 10:00:39 AM »

I appreciate the help guys. The nutural light come on when I put it in nutural. I also tried it with the clutch pulled in. So I don't think that is the problem. I switched the brake relay with the starter relay since they are the same, knowing the brake relay works. Wouldn't it blow a fuse before it would affect the start switch? I don't have a ohm meter but looks like I will have to get one. There are two hot wires leading to the starter. (the one I touched) One is direct off the battery and the other goes to the Maxi fuse. Since the maxi fuse, and the other 15 amp fuses are alright would be the starter?

The two connections at the starter are main power (hot all the time) and the engagement wire that "turns on" the solenoid.  It's fed through the safety interlocks and the starter switch on the handlebars.

If you've got (or get) just a cheap 12v test light you can see what's what at the starter.  The big cable should be hot all the time.  It very likely will be.  The other smaller leg that plugs in to the solenoid will only be hot when the starter button is pushed.  It's what actually engages the starter.

If that leg is hot when you push the starter button you need a starter.  If that leg never gets hot the problem is elsewhere.
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harleyguynv

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Re: Starter problems
« Reply #11 on: March 07, 2010, 10:08:03 AM »

The two connections at the starter are main power (hot all the time) and the engagement wire that "turns on" the solenoid.  It's fed through the safety interlocks and the starter switch on the handlebars.

If you've got (or get) just a cheap 12v test light you can see what's what at the starter.  The big cable should be hot all the time.  It very likely will be.  The other smaller leg that plugs in to the solenoid will only be hot when the starter button is pushed.  It's what actually engages the starter.

If that leg is hot when you push the starter button you need a starter.  If that leg never gets hot the problem is elsewhere.
Thank for the great explanation. I will go to Autozone and see if I can get a test light and check it out. Could a guy jump the smaller leg?
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Twolanerider

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Re: Starter problems
« Reply #12 on: March 07, 2010, 10:15:19 AM »

Thank for the great explanation. I will go to Autozone and see if I can get a test light and check it out. Could a guy jump the smaller leg?

Yes, sure could.  Decent test lead of some kind and go from power (either the big post on the starter or straight from the battery) and tap it.  Make absolutely sure the bike is in neutral.  Because if the starter is good it will buck.  If nothing happens you've isolated the starter from everything else on the bike.
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harleyguynv

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Re: Starter problems
« Reply #13 on: March 07, 2010, 10:18:42 AM »

Yes, sure could.  Decent test lead of some kind and go from power (either the big post on the starter or straight from the battery) and tap it.  Make absolutely sure the bike is in neutral.  Because if the starter is good it will buck.  If nothing happens you've isolated the starter from everything else on the bike.
I'll let you know what I come up with. Thanks!
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Twolanerider

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Re: Starter problems
« Reply #14 on: March 07, 2010, 10:21:56 AM »

I'll let you know what I come up with. Thanks!

Good luck.  Also, again just thinking of the simple stuff that can bite us in the ass when we're not expecting it, make sure you don't have loose battery cables somewhere.  You can see dim power with a test light but not have enough juice to bump a battery.
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