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[jgadamick]

What tool did you use to break the welds? My Fullsac kit is on the way and I plan on using a Dremel tool for removing the stock baffles.

I started with the dremel and carbide cutter as others suggested and just did not feel comfortable with it as the dremel bit length was just short of the weld and was starting to score the inner surface.  So the ultimate tool was a 20 dollar bill and local weld/machine shop.  They knocked it out without a blink of the eye. They were actually quite happy to work on something "cool" for once.

[jgadamick]

You can change the file extension back to .MTE and you can still use it to restore from.  Just changing the file's name does not alter the contents of the file, it just controls what programs think they can read it.  You may need to change the file extension as a full administrator or enable viewing file extensions in explorer in order to change it back.  Just Windows being 'helpful' and saving you from yourself!

--Gary

Great to know.  Thanks!!

[FL54]

Dremel with a carbide cutter was what I used and had no problems.  The only thing I would suggest is to take your time and just be careful.  I estimate that it took around 20-30 minutes per muffler to grind the welds.  As in previous threads, I used a dowel to tap the baffles back up into the mufflers to expose what was left of the welds so they could be ground off completely to remove the stock baffles.

[KODAGRIN]

Is there any reason to keep the heat shields on the muffler bodies of the SESG?  The mufflers look fine without the shields but maybe they protect the saddlebags a little from the heat..............

[HD4CPA]

Is there any reason to keep the heat shields on the muffler bodies of the SESG?  The mufflers look fine without the shields but maybe they protect the saddlebags a little from the heat..............

So you don't see discolored pipes over time.

[Crusty]

Not real sophisticated  but I just  put a flat screwdriver between the clevis of the rear brake and the X pipe and pried it back 1/16 of an inch.  Problem solved.

Tried to pry mine today and didn't get either side to move, so it is still touching... 

[jgadamick]

Tried to pry mine today and didn't get either side to move, so it is still touching... 

Crusty,

What I learned is that I could not let the exhaust hang freely and try and tighten.  I seated the exhaust by grabbing x-pipe at the "X" and pushed the pipe up to seat tightly and outward towards me to give the proper clearance from the clevis and then tightened the nuts.  It seated very well with no exhaust leaks and plenty of clearance.

[Fullsac Performance]

Tried to pry mine today and didn't get either side to move, so it is still touching... 

Hammer and a punch. Drive it in flush no problem.

Steve

[StrikerDown]

Hammer and a punch. Drive it in flush no problem.

Steve

I used a Large pair of channel lock Pliers, Top jaw on the clevis and bottom jaw on the head on the pin, gave it a squeeze and it pressed right in.