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[panhead1]

Picked up my first screamin eagle 103 bike.  an 06 ultra.  It has 18k miles on it.  never had any upgrades not even the stage one kit.  Still has all the original air breather stuff also.  My question is what is the oil pressure usually at for these bikes?  Are they usually lower than regular ultras?  I have an 01 ultra and even if the oil temp is at 250 degrees i am still at 45lbs.  This bike when it is cold it will go to 60lbs but after about a mile or 2 at 3k rpm only put our about 28lbs.  It idles at around 10lbs though which isn't bad.  Wasn't sure if they all just have low pressure or something is going on.  read alot of the posts here and seems everyone puts on another oil cooler and a high pressure oil pump. 

The other thing i am wondering.  Seems like the motor just likes rpms and doesn't really have much power till you get around 3k rpm.  I figured with it being stroked and big bored would have more low end power then it does.  Kinda seems all the way around that my 01 ultra with 26g andrews cams and gear drives with exhaust and power commander runs out better than it does.  Just need some sort of info on what to do or expect. 

[HD Street Performance]

The oil pressure is not bad, could be a little better. Being as this is a new aquisition and it has tensioners that have a maintenance history I would suggest opening the cam chest for a check. Check the relief valve and polish it.

The motor has low compression and the SE253 cam has a late intake close. Not a recipe for good low speed torque.
Consider a Woods 5 in the conversion cam, TW5-6R, and change to the new roller chain and hydraulic tensioners and a oil pump, tensioner, runout inspection at bare minimum.
The heads will need a cut to work with that cam and you can expect a much different running bike, assuming a good pipe and tune.

[panhead1]

I was looking at doing the cam conversion.  Saw andrews and woods both had the set up.  I am not sure what the tolerances are on the screamin eagle heads what lift they can take.  I thought about just going back withthe andrews 26n since it works very well in my other ultra.  FIgured the 37 might be a little high rpm and not enough compression.  Havn't looked into the woods cams that closely yet.  Still trying to figure out what a/c to get and the tuner.  Seems everyone here goes with the tts.  At first i was looking into the thundermax, but now who knows.  Might just go with the pc-v for now till i figure out what i want to do.  Cause if i go withthe other ones not really worth it unless i cut bung holes in my v&h true duels.  I have never had the oil light ever come on idling or driving just worried me it was low.  Is it worth it to just crack it open and see for now and washer the pump or put in the baily's deal i have heard about to change the bypass?

[HD Street Performance]

Just follow my lead and you will be fine
The Woods 5 will work very well. The Andrews 26n will be OK, Woods more torque where you ride. Get all the OEM 2007 parts from HD.
Short high lift is what those heads like and the springs go there.
No need for the Baisley spring and the new setup will include a new camplate and oil pump.
Check the crank runout while in there.

[panhead1]

i was saying putting the baisley spring in for now till i figure out what to do with the cams. so i have some decent oil pressure. 

[grc]

Normal oil pressure on a Twin Cam, at least the 99-06 vintage, is 30-38 psi at 2000 rpm and 230°F oil temp.  There is no specification listed for oil pressure at idle, but it has been my experience that the Twin Cams will usually idle in the 8 to 10 psi range at normal operating temperature.  Of course, I wouldn't make any decisions based on the standard oil pressure gauge.  If you question the pressure, check it with a real certified mechanics gauge teed into the oil galley at the sending unit.

With the known issues of the cam chain tensioners that can cause oil pump damage and sticky relief valves, lower than normal oil pressure at cruising speeds is a good indicator that you need to check the tensioners and the oil pump/relief valve.  And 18-20k miles is where a lot of us have started experiencing problems with the old style tensioners.

The baisley spring won't fix the problem if you have a pump going away or a bunch of crud from the tensioners jamming the relief valve, but it might cover up the problem until you have a total pump or tensioner failure.  I wouldn't recommend that route, since total failures have wiped out entire engines in the past.  Take a look at the tensioners, and if they still look good I suppose you could clean up the relief valve and bore and stretch the stock spring or install a Baisely spring or a Zipper's shim.  But unless those tensioners look pristine, you would be doing yourself a big favor just changing it all out to the new system and be done with it.  JMHO

The stock CVO103 heads are capable of handling up to .600" lift, but .575" has proven to be a good figure for reliable bolt-in use without headwork or roller rockers or other upgrades.  The hemi combustion chambers are huge, over 90cc, and the compression ratio with flat top pistons is relatively low at approximately 8.9:1.  This will definitely influence your cam choice if you just want a bolt-in solution.


Jerry

[panhead1]

Thanks jerry.  I was trying to look up what the max lift the 103 heads could take.  I saw that the woods 5 cam said it was a bolt in for the se heads.  That looks like a pretty decent cam set up other than the price. lol. I love to play around but alot of my riding is just on long trips.  So i have to make sure the bike is going to be fine with long days of riding and not over heating.  I have read alot of posts here that people are running 2 oil coolers.  I will probably take off my cam cover tomorrow and see what i all find in there before i go ordering stuff. 

[Fired00d]

Take a look at the mods in my signature... a lot of us have had good luck w/that setup.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[panhead1]

I see your running the redshift 575 cam.  I looked at those also.  said they were set up for the cvo 103.  Looks like the tw5 and the redshift are about the best bet so far.  What are you running for a/c?  I thought about just getting the kn filter and putting that in and taking off the plastic backing plate off the stock breather for now. 

[Fired00d]

I see your running the redshift 575 cam.  I looked at those also.  said they were set up for the cvo 103.  Looks like the tw5 and the redshift are about the best bet so far.  What are you running for a/c?  I thought about just getting the kn filter and putting that in and taking off the plastic backing plate off the stock breather for now. 

I'm running the SE Breather. Check out this thread - "Roll Your Own" SE Air Cleaner.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[HD Street Performance]

Good advice from Jerry, I agree
There is nothing wrong with the RS575 at all.

The Woods 5 will out torque the Redshift in the low to midrange and still not be any where close to causing too much mechanical compression corrected for cam. The intake close of 36° VS 40° and the overlap of 32° VS 40° speaks to that. The RS will charge a little harder on the top over 4,500. Exhaust system and tune will be important factors in the final result especially with the RS cam and the added overlap.

Last 103 CVO we did got HD 10.5 pistons and Woods TW408-44 conversion cams (converted to 07up roller chain and hydraulic tensioners) and it made 120 torque all the way to 4,500 and still was pulling 100 at 5k and hit 100 at 2,400. Quiet runner.

[panhead1]

On the 07 cam conversion did you just get the kit that harley has?  or did you get the one that woods or andrews has?  I think the ones that woods sells is just the se cam plate conversion but not sure.  I am trying to go the cheapest way here.  have a trip coming up soon so need to figure out what i need so i can get it all ordered so i can do it next week.  If you go with the se cam plate conversion is there anything else beside adjustable pushrods and cams you have to get? Oh and is the new oil pump fine by itself or do you do anymore changes with it? I am thinking the woods cam will probalby work out the best only screwing around will i be over the 5k rpm mark.  most of my riding will be in the 3k-3.5k range traveling.  Only think i have heard about them is they are kinda noisy. 

And does anyone have any advise on the tuner?  I am probalby going to wait till this fall if i even do it to drill my v&h pipes for o2 bungs.  So not sure if it is worth it to get the tts or thundermax since it can't auto tune without.  Just do the pc-v for now and maybe put the auto tune on it later on.

[HD Street Performance]

The cheapest thing to do is an Andrews or Redshift cam sway leaving the original tensioners and chains.
You will need a retune to get it to run properly as you have altered the airflow significantly. I recommend the TTS and converting to closed loop.
The 07 conversion parts list are all OEM parts from HD so get the list off the Andrews website and order them from a discount dealer online if you go that route.
Woods kit is OEM HD parts
Do not use the HD "hybrid kit". IMHO it is a waste of money, you still have a silent not roller chain on the back side and those plates are not holding up as well as the OEM parts seem to be. Many reports of premature wear between the oil pump interface and the pump gears, and sticking relief valves

[panhead1]

I want to be cheap but yet do it right while i am in there.  I will try and see if i can find all the part numbers for the conversion.  Thats really the only reason i am even going to change anything is for the oil pump.  don't like it running such a low oil pressure. 

[HD Street Performance]

Understand that the stock oil pump and camplate are adequate when everything is not worn and installed properly.
The tensioners are a problem area that with periodic checking can be a non-issue, the crank having runout needs to be checked, don't miss this important step.