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[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

If it's already reassembled it is a medium sized deal.  Outer primary comes off and all the primary chain drive and clutch parts.  You also need a couple of very large sockets many of us wouldn't commonly have in our tool boxes.  There's also a special puller some use to remove the rotor.  Depends on how strong the magnets are.

It sounds like yours isn't back together yet.  Look at it now while it's still on their lift.  If they are trying to avoid a more significant repair you want to catch it before it leaves their shop.  Once you're gone they can blame anything they want on you if it has survived for any even small period of time.

It really would be visually obvious.  You can see this yourself.

Attached is a picture of a rotor from some guy's eBay listing.  The teeth in the center are what's in question.  Your shop is saying they've worn or broken away.  They engage in obvious groove in the crankshaft.

Those rotors are hard.  It may be that the rotor gave up without damaging the crank.  But it may not be either.  While they're still apart with the bike is when you have to find out.

I believe that Drag has their house-brand rotor that is extra thick in tooth area.
What takes those out, is if the clamp, or pinch, is not correct on them, usually.
Scott

[jagonza1]

You may have a bad rotor on the charging system.  But the other thing you need to consider is checking the runout on both the rotor sid and the pinion shaft of the crank. I f you have excessive rounout you have a crank that scissored. whixh means slipped out of true.  This recently happened to me and the result was a cracked oil pump and a stator that rubbed the windings and damaged my stator.  the result of that is about three grand out of my pocket to rebuild the motor with a brand new crank.  Have your runout checked before you do anymore repairs to make sure you don't have the worst case scenario.

Later
John

[GtreetSlide]

Go back to the manager and offer him two options;
take your trade deal
or see you in court