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[Eqcons]

My 09 CUSE⁴ has the most horrendous valve train noise, and it's now off the road for the winter - first snows here today.   By the time it's back on the road, the warranty will be up.

Because of the racket it makes* I'm convinced a lifter will fail.  I'd like to replace them with something better before that happens (and change the cams at the same time, I think - no need to remove the heads after all).  What's available as the best replacement lifter for them?


*except when I take it to the dealer to listen!

Jim

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

One of the best we've seen, is the new Wood directional roller lifter.
Scott

[Heatwave]

My 09 CUSE⁴ has the most horrendous valve train noise, and it's now off the road for the winter - first snows here today.   By the time it's back on the road, the warranty will be up.

Because of the racket it makes* I'm convinced a lifter will fail.  I'd like to replace them with something better before that happens (and change the cams at the same time, I think - no need to remove the heads after all).  What's available as the best replacement lifter for them?


*except when I take it to the dealer to listen!

Jim

I'm planning to install Woods new directional lifters this winter. Here's a thread on them http://www.hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/498751-woods-roller-lifters-3.html

[LC110]

Anyone have experience with the HeadQuarters Black Ops lifters?

[aclass]

Thanks for posting Eqcons,  I'm interested in doing this myself and wondered which lifter to go with.  Fortunately my engine is still quiet at 11000 but I prefer to be proactive with all the trouble folks seem to be having.

[HD Street Performance]

Leave it alone. The 30K mile number was an EVO replacement schedule.

[FNGw/08SERK]

We had the cam chest open on my SERG this summer. In a moment of brainfartatosis we replaced the oe lifters with the SE version. Thought being they were a better design. Since then I have been the benefactor of .... you did what? .... tutelage. Apparently there is a fair amount of consensus that the SE lifters are inferior. Even the shop foreman at my dealership is of the same mindset   FWIW

Howie

[hdbrad03]

We had the cam chest open on my SERG this summer. In a moment of brainfartatosis we replaced the oe lifters with the SE version. Thought being they were a better design. Since then I have been the benefactor of .... you did what? .... tutelage. Apparently there is a fair amount of consensus that the SE lifters are inferior. Even the shop foreman at my dealership is of the same mindset   FWIW

Howie

Maybe they will give you a refund?
I guess we should have asked first jumped later.

 
Brad

[FNGw/08SERK]

Maybe they will give you a refund?
I guess we should have asked first jumped later.

 
Brad

Something tells me this too will be rectified prior to next riding season 

I know my post doesn't speak to the original question but thought I would throw out it may be worthwhile to stay away from the SE lifters.

[Keats]

A Chevy 350 uses the same lifters

[scottm2200]

Have the wood's in my ride. They are noisy at start up, but great after warm up.

[SBB]

I use S&S w/travel limiters in my 09 SEUC.

SBB












And Howie you didn't? ? ?  Even then you knew better!

[fatboi1959]

I'll second that on the S&S with travel limiters. 

[Eqcons]

The instructions for the KNIGHT PROWLER® “DIRECTIONAL” ROLLER LIFTERS:

http://www.woodcarbs.com/Directional_Roller_Lifter_INSTRUCTIONS.pdf

talks about using adjustable push rods. Are these necessary?  I already have the [non-adjustable] SE pushrods that are the correct ones for my cam choice.....

Jim

[grc]

The instructions for the KNIGHT PROWLER® “DIRECTIONAL” ROLLER LIFTERS:

http://www.woodcarbs.com/Directional_Roller_Lifter_INSTRUCTIONS.pdf

talks about using adjustable push rods. Are these necessary?  I already have the [non-adjustable] SE pushrods that are the correct ones for my cam choice.....

Jim

The reason for them recommending the adjustable pushrods has to do with the nonstandard amount of preload.  Normally, the pushrod length should be such that the piston in the lifter is centered (.100" of the .200" total travel).  The Wood folks recommend adjusting the pushrod to .120"-.130".  I've seen other people recommend adjusting for as much as .150".

Considering all the various factors, a one piece (nonadjustable) pushrod like what you already have is superior.  Lighter, less likely to suffer failure, etc.

If you just want a better lifter, and not necessarily a "racing" part, why not try a set of the lifters that came with the early Twin Cams, before Harley switched to the cheaper Delphi/GM stuff they use now?  For years engine builders in the know recommended just sticking with the stock lifters versus all the hype infused overpriced stuff.  That isn't true anymore with the cheapened stock parts, but I understand you can still buy the original design lifters from a company called AMS.  And the price isn't much different than what you pay for a set of current stock lifters.

BTW, the part of the lifter that fails and wipes out engines is the roller.  I'd be more inclined to look for the best design in terms of the roller, roller axle, and bearing than any "supposed" performance advantage hyped by all these companies.  The infamous failures with Jims and SE lifters were caused by the rollers, just like the ones we hear about these days with the Harley -B lifters. 

 
Jerry