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[hogheritage04]

I went the easy route and had the Rineharts installed when I took delivery of my bike..sort of...the bike came in and the pipes were on back order, so I put 900 miles on it with the stock pipes.  You will be VERY happy with the performance of these pipes compared to the stocks.  They are quite a bit louder and really sound GREAT [smiley=banana.gif].  Enjoy them as the really add to the bike.  I'm getting mine dyno tuned now that all the goodies are on.

[06RoadKing]

Thanks for the great post and tips.  I received my Rinehart TDs and SERT this morning and am getting ready to start.  Will I be OK to use a standard map for my configuration until  I can find a worthy DYNO shop.  I do not feel comfortable using my local HD shop.  THey just got a dyno and there techs are not the best in my previous experience.  If I can use a MAP will it run too lean or blue the pipes?  Thanks

[The Mysterious Q!]

Well the pipes have heat shields that will cover any blueing which is almost a certainty.But running your bike to lean will damage the topend of your motor and you don't want that.Just download a canned map closest to your bikes configuration and then look to get it dynoed.

[06RoadKing]

OK THANks, Im getting ready to start.  Is there a MAP on the CD rom or do I need to get one online?

[lvrider]

If you don't find a map here, you may want to try looking in www.hdmaps.com.
I recently checked and a map is available for your exact setup.  Unfortuantely, it will cost $69.00

[06RoadKing]

If you don't find a map here, you may want to try looking in www.hdmaps.com.
I recently checked and a map is available for your exact setup.  Unfortuantely, it will cost $69.00

Ill check that out, didnt know about that site.  If I can find a good dyno shop may be better to spend that money there.  If I can find a free one just to get me there.  Thanks

[WFP]

I am loading up the SE Filter/SE Pipes Stage 1 until I get it dynoed...

Ill check that out, didnt know about that site.  If I can find a good dyno shop may be better to spend that money there.  If I can find a free one just to get me there.  Thanks

[06RoadKing]

I installed my Rinehart TDs yesterday and rode it down the street before I remaped it and the check engine light came on at around 3k rpm and would go off at idle.  This morning I used my SERT and uploaded a map close to my configuration and the check engine light did the same thing.  I got the code off the data mode of the SERT software and it shows code P1477 which is classified as an undefined code.  I cleared it a few times today and it comes right back as I drive it.  Anybody with any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks

[WFP]

I can only WISH I could ride my bike...it is still 3000 miles from me !

[70_GTX]

How not to do it. When the dealership put my Rineharts on, they didn't have the new bracket. They knew there was a problem with the old bracket due to some returning ripped pipes. They used a chromed bracket that they had on hand. They didn't tell me about the problem or their fix. They "clearanced" the passenger footboard support. I wouldn't have noticed it until my wife told me that she was feeling vibration through that footboard at certain RPM's. When I took it back they had to clearance it some more. By then, I didn't have much say about it. Like I said, it wasn't too noticeable and I guess that if there is ever a problem they will take care of it. They are pretty easy to deal with. This  is a picture of the bracket.

[70_GTX]

The "clearance" job.

[UltraPolecat]

I may be different than everybody else but before they start grinding on my chrome, they better tell me.  It may be a good solution, but I would have to know up front.  Some folks are too quick to whip the grinder out.

Mike

[Eqcons]

Right, I'm just about finished the removal, and have stopped for a breather, so hoping for a v. quick reply!

Instructions say to remove the mounting bracket for the front pipe.   You know, the one that has a fairly robust clamp round the pipe to attach to it.  Do they REALLY mean the bracket?  That'll mean removing the oil filler spout first to get at the rearmost of the four allen screws.....

Jim

[WFP]

just the "P" clamp itself so you can remove the pipe...and remember to put it on BEFORE they actually tell you to put it on the bike...otherwise, you have to stretch it.

Also, Check the clearance of the Starboard Muffler in relation to the Axel nut...mine is too close...oops.

Right, I'm just about finished the removal, and have stopped for a breather, so hoping for a v. quick reply!

Instructions say to remove the mounting bracket for the front pipe.   You know, the one that has a fairly robust clamp round the pipe to attach to it.  Do they REALLY mean the bracket?  That'll mean removing the oil filler spout first to get at the rearmost of the four allen screws.....

Jim

[Eqcons]

just the "P" clamp itself so you can remove the pipe...and remember to put it on BEFORE they actually tell you to put it on the bike...otherwise, you have to stretch it.

Also, Check the clearance of the Starboard Muffler in relation to the Axel nut...mine is too close...oops.

Yup, worked that one out eventually - they call theirs a "p clamp" and tell you to remove the OEM "bracket" duh!

Yes, mine is too close to the axle nut too - no way round that. Taking the back wheel off will be fun!  

Jim