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[dartman]

 Simple enough.....find a dealership that values you as a customer. The suspension, front or rear has nothing to do with the fall away and the neck bearings.

x2 your lucky it wasn't your transmission probably would have been the shocks fault

[Dr.D]

x2 your lucky it wasn't your transmission probably would have been the shocks fault

x3 don't put any chrome nut covers on or the motor will fail and warranty is voided. I would go back and ask point blank what other parts of the bike are out of warranty because of the shocks. Get forceful and threaten to call the MoCo you have little to loose since you should be done with them. If you stay then............. I had my steering tightened once ans checked a second time with no charges.

I had a conversation with my dealer about a bike that is highly modified, thanks in part to them and it was clear that any failures are evaluated for the cause and if the mods are not related then the warranty applies.

[Midnight Rider]

Don't know if the adjustment to the head bearings made any difference yet -haven't had a chance to push it hard since then. Work keeps getting in the way (but that's a good thing!)
I have a pair of Bitubos on the back (since the H-D lowering shocks were poop), so they said "it's been modified -no warranty coverage!"

So I'm trying to figure it out for myself...

Total, total, BS.  That's like a car dealer saying your warranty is voided if you put on a set of Monroe shocks instead of the factory issued ones.  The Bitubo shocks you put on the bike are a Brazillion times better than anything HD has in their catalog.  I'd be calling the MOCO and reporting that dealer for charging me for something that clearly should be covered under the warranty, and also mention the fact that an improperly adjusted steering head is a HUGE safety issue that could result in your death or serious injury, and it obviously was out of spec from either the factory, or was not properly inspected when the bike was serviced at the 1K mark.  I'd insist on a refund and then never shadow the door of that dealer again, and I'd let them know why too.

[petewerner]

If u want to know if your neck bearings are loose, just let go of the handlebars @ 45mph and as it slows your front wheel gets wobbly and then u grab the bars before u crash...Then u know if it is too loose

[cahdbiker]

DrSpenser, If you are leaning really low in a curve, long or short, you may be getting to where the bottom of your rear tire is getting close to the sidewall. That would definitely cause a kind of fluctuation in the rear. I read your air pressure specs and they seem fine. You could also try getting up to speed say about 85-90 on a straight section of road and let off the throttle, while keeping a light grip on the bars. If your bike wobbles at that point then I would say it may be something in the front end. Also if you have a motorcycle jack raise your rear wheel, have someone help you and see if there is any wobble in your rear fork. The only other thing I can think of is that if the curve is posted 55MPH and you are going 75 MPH maybe your are just pushing it a little too hard.JMHOCAHDBIKER

[DrSpencer]

DrSpenser, If you are leaning really low in a curve, long or short, you may be getting to where the bottom of your rear tire is getting close to the sidewall. That would definitely cause a kind of fluctuation in the rear. I read your air pressure specs and they seem fine. You could also try getting up to speed say about 85-90 on a straight section of road and let off the throttle, while keeping a light grip on the bars. If your bike wobbles at that point then I would say it may be something in the front end. Also if you have a motorcycle jack raise your rear wheel, have someone help you and see if there is any wobble in your rear fork. The only other thing I can think of is that if the curve is posted 55MPH and you are going 75 MPH maybe your are just pushing it a little too hard.JMHOCAHDBIKER

Bike is fine when I let go of the bars on a straightaway at high speeds, no wobble.

Adjusted/tightened steering head bearings, no change.

The feeling I get when taking a sweeping curve at 75+MPH, is not so much a wobble, but more like there is a hinge under the seat. I feel the uneasiness in the seat, not the fork.

I have a jack, can you tell me how to check for a wobble in my rear fork?

Thanks

[Sledge]

I've noticed no problems at all on my 2011 CVO Ultra but I've only put 500 miles on it since last week.  If I detect any wobble I'll post the conditions that caused it.  My suspension is set for 200# rider and light passenger but I have been riding alone.

[OlDog]

I had a wobble at 30 mph, a dealer in the states adjusted my rear shocks and raised the tire pressure 6 psi each. Fixed the problem...no charge. Mt. Baker.

[gabhart]

I felt it with my 2007 Ultra. I have not felt it on my 2011.5 SEUC. Very happy with the new frame design.

[Sledge]

Speaking of the new frame:  My wife actually rode with me for the first time in years and enjoyed it too.  Mainly due to the added comfort from new frame and better seating design.

[porthole]

I have a pair of Bitubos on the back (since the H-D lowering shocks were poop), so they said "it's been modified -no warranty coverage!"

So I'm trying to figure it out for myself...

You need to do your homework. Plenty to search for right here on this site. But for starters, Google and read the Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act of 1975, literally an act of Congress looking out for the American people.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson-Moss_Warranty_Act

Read it, understand it and then go back to your dealer. If he is still too stupid to understand, get your rep involved.
Been there - done that got the T-shirt and my engine repaired under warranty.

[porthole]

Bike is fine when I let go of the bars on a straightaway at high speeds, no wobble.

Adjusted/tightened steering head bearings, no change.

The feeling I get when taking a sweeping curve at 75+MPH, is not so much a wobble, but more like there is a hinge under the seat. I feel the uneasiness in the seat, not the fork.

Geez, and I have been avoiding riding the new bikes for fear of dropping the red bike off on the side of the road and replacing it with something new.
And that new red road glide with a very similar paint to the SEEG had my interest for a short period of time.

[grc]

While the new frame, swingarm, and engine mounting system has greatly reduced the "flexible flyer" feeling on the new style baggers, there is still some capability to generate a little rear steer.  That will always be the case until they eliminate the rubber mounted swingarm pivot (otherwise known as rear motor mounts, trans mount, etc.).  Without riding several bikes back to back, it might be rather difficult to determine if that hinge under the seat feeling is normal, or there really is something not quite right on that particular bike.  So my first suggestion is to get a ride on a couple similar model demonstrators from your dealer.  If your bike seems to be hinged in the middle and the demonstrators do not under the same riding conditions, it's time for the dealer to start doing some real diagnostics. 

BTW, make absolutely certain you are running the correct tire pressures.  Even a few psi too low can allow the tire to squirm excessively.  I believe the late models call for 40 psi cold in the rear, not 36-40 like the earlier bikes.  Also, as the rear tire wears and develops a flatter profile, getting up on the edge can also result in some squirrelly feelings.  How's the tread wear on your bike, and did you notice the same handling issue when the tires were new?


Jerry

[DrSpencer]

While the new frame, swingarm, and engine mounting system has greatly reduced the "flexible flyer" feeling on the new style baggers, there is still some capability to generate a little rear steer.  That will always be the case until they eliminate the rubber mounted swingarm pivot (otherwise known as rear motor mounts, trans mount, etc.).  Without riding several bikes back to back, it might be rather difficult to determine if that hinge under the seat feeling is normal, or there really is something not quite right on that particular bike.  So my first suggestion is to get a ride on a couple similar model demonstrators from your dealer.  If your bike seems to be hinged in the middle and the demonstrators do not under the same riding conditions, it's time for the dealer to start doing some real diagnostics. 

BTW, make absolutely certain you are running the correct tire pressures.  Even a few psi too low can allow the tire to squirm excessively.  I believe the late models call for 40 psi cold in the rear, not 36-40 like the earlier bikes.  Also, as the rear tire wears and develops a flatter profile, getting up on the edge can also result in some squirrelly feelings.  How's the tread wear on your bike, and did you notice the same handling issue when the tires were new?


Jerry

Didn't notice the 'shimmy' when the bike was new (it presently has 6K miles). Tire wear looks normal.

Bringing it to the dealer will be an exercise in futility. This problem is only noticeable when doing 75MPH+ sweepers. The monkey at the dealer isn't going to have an opportunity to ride the bike in that context.

I'll bring it in for service and they will say one of the following:

"Sorry, the 'Tech' (cough, cough) couldn't duplicate the condition, bike rides great"

"We tightened the steering head bearing (even though they really didn't), it should be fine."

"The bike is fine, maybe it's your riding style."

"They all do that."

The warranty/dealer experience is a farce. I'd rather do it myself.

[cahdbiker]

Dr. Spenser, my way of checking the rear end for wobble is probably very rudamentary. I would raise up the back wheel. Have one person sit on the bike to stabalize, and then get someone with a little muscle to see if they could get any side to side movement in the fork  by tugging on the rear wheel from side to side. I know it sounds like a crude method, but even a little wiggle could be magnified by the forces of you and the bike taking a fast sweeper.I have attached the trouble shooting section for Handling Irregularities from my 09 service manuel it is on page 1-60 CAHDBIKER

Bike is fine when I let go of the bars on a straightaway at high speeds, no wobble.

Adjusted/tightened steering head bearings, no change.

The feeling I get when taking a sweeping curve at 75+MPH, is not so much a wobble, but more like there is a hinge under the seat. I feel the uneasiness in the seat, not the fork.

I have a jack, can you tell me how to check for a wobble in my rear fork?

Thanks